Engine swap.. clutch fork/thrust bearing query.. (1 Viewer)

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Hi all,

I'm about to do a swap of a 2H engine for my HJ47 (4 speed) and I have a query on the clutch fork/thrust bearing.

I will be removing the old engine complete with bellhousing and leaving the 4 speed transmission in place. I am doing this job alone and dont really want to bring the transmission and transfer case out.

Its not clear to me how I deal with the thrust bearing and clutch fork when I install the new engine.

This is the fork and bearing as seen on the new engine..

https://i.imgur.com/xbrrzni.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/70rquRE.jpg


The thrust bearing surely has to go onto the input shaft of the transmission that's currently in the vehicle after the old engine is removed and prior to the new engine going in.. but the Clutch fork will be attached inside the bellhousing on the new engine as its installed.. what is the process to ensure the clutch fork ends up behind the thrust bearing and is retained correctly as I install the new engine into the engine bay and attach it to the existing transmission? Is there clips that hold the fork to the bearing and if so how can I possibly get these on during install?

I'm clearly a bit out of my depth but determined to learn. :)

With thanks.



edit... OK I've subsequently learnt there is two clips that hold the thrust bearing on the fork.. this makes sense now.
 
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you'll likely end up going on a couple of diving trips before the engine lands home to wiggle the bearing and fork onto the input shaft and get it more lined up...the engine/trans fitment is a pain in the arse; if you can buy a friend with some booze or steaks, you're money ahead. I have done the lone ranger stab routine under the truck, on a trailer, and also with engine in but transmission down...no matter what you do, getting it to stab in place is always a bear. do not fall prey to the temptation of using long bolts to pull it home...just take your time and reset as many times as you need to...it's home, or it ain,t. HTH
 
Awesome thanks @LAMBCRUSHER and @watrob .. some good advice there.. I've got the clips coming by courier on Monday.. hopefully they make it in time before the whole country shuts down for Xmas and New Years.. I suspect there's a good chance the existing fork has the clips which I can reuse.. I'm pretty sure the bell housings and clutches are an exact match so my existing Slave Cylinder and Rod should suit.. they are nearly new..

Many thanks.
 
I've seen a suggestion to put the bellhousing back on first.. that would avoid the issue of having to mess about with getting the input shaft of the gearbox through the thrust bearing.. but those top two bolts on the bell housing look really difficult.. ?
 
Just stabbed the tranny/ transfer to the 2FE. Different approach, but all the same issues as outlined by LAMBCRUSHER. Take your time, have some help, push, wiggle, swear, and, as he said, do not suck it in with long bolts. The use of long punches, aka "spud bars" to align one bolt hole while you "make up" the other hole with a bolt is a big help. Take your time and eventually all your bolts will be hand started and you will be able to "finesse" the parts together by hand ( or foot).

Oh yeah, start with the flange surfaces on the motor and tranny parallel, i.e., same measurement at top and bottom both sides and all will go better. And don't do like I did and get in a hurry and make too great an adjustment and push the throw-out bearing off of the fork.

Good Luck!
 
One thing that helps id to make sure the tranny is in gear and either the drive shaft is out of rear wheels off the ground. When you are trying to get the splines aligned on the clutch disk and trany it makes for a lot of help to turn the output shaft to get the splines in line.
 
Thanks all.. I'll post an update when the job is done.. cheers.
 

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