Engine support when pulling trans/TC FJ60

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Joined
Jun 6, 2019
Threads
6
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29
Location
Houston, Tx
I am planning to pull transmission/TC this weekend to replace the input shaft seal. I have read 1980 /1984 FSMs and every thread on this site for tips/tricks/pitfalls.
I see only one mention of supporting rear of engine when / while pulling gearboxes (jack and wood block under oil pan). It seems as though it is necessary to prevent the weight of the rear of engine from torqueing the motor mounts which are on the extreme front of the engine. What supports the rear of the engine after the crossmember is removed to pull the gear boxes?
Any thoughts or suggestions would be helpful.
 
Get a heavy duty ratchet strap and run in across bothe sides of the frame and cradle the bell housing or engine.
 
So it seams as though the rear of the engine should be supported and not left to hang from the front motor mounts?
What would happen if the rear of the engine were not supported? Would it drop and hang at some point safely? Or would something in fact break or be damaged?
 
I would support it. No need experimenting with what if.
 
So it seams as though the rear of the engine should be supported and not left to hang from the front motor mounts?
What would happen if the rear of the engine were not supported? Would it drop and hang at some point safely? Or would something in fact break or be damaged?


it would break the front motor mounts/isolators, the fan could come into contact with the radiator, thus causing a leak and needing repair or replacement, could damage the air cleaner assembly with the firewall,could break an a/c line needing repair and recharge, plus it will be easier to re-install the trans with the engine fairly level
but
do what you want.
 
It needs supporting otherwise there's gonna be a tremendous amount of torque strain on the motor mounts and you don't want them to tear...

Most people just put a jack with a 2x4 under the rear of the oil pan or Bell housing. I've seen people put a 4x4 across the fenders, hood removed, and support with ratchet straps.
 
Thank you all for your feedback. This is exactly what I was hoping to hear. I was just making sure I was not missing something as none of the threads on this site, except 1, nor either of the fsms make any mention of supporting rear of engine. I will chalk it up to the fsm writers assuming this was obvious.
 
Some ideas

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image.jpeg

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Thanks for the pictures. Not sure I understand the 10 3/4" measurement? Also, any reason I can't just use a floor jack with block of wood underneath the oil pan? Will the weight of the engine deform the pan or the pan gasket? I just replaced it thinking that was the source of the oil leak and would hate to have to redo it as well.
 
Floor jack and block of wood works great while getting it disconnected. The bar with ratchet straps that @OSS showed works fantastic for holding it there and freeing up space underneath the truck.
 
The 10-3/4" marking on my photo was a note to myself when I was doing it to give me reference how far the engine was drooped.
Guys have pulled the engine (during an engine rebuild) and set the entire engine down on the oil pan with no ill effects. I didn't want to support the rear of the engine on the pan because the pan was destined to come off.
Maybe resting on the pan is fine (as others have done it) but it never looked like a good support place to me.
 
Thanks for all the replies so far. I am feeling much better about this now.
How far back does the transmission need to move before the shaft is free from the clutch assembly?
Seems like i will need to lower the back end of the engine somewhat before pulling the trans/tc to allow the shifter cone on top to clear the hole in the floor? Is this right?
 
Yes
 
How far back does the transmission need to move before the shaft is free from the clutch assembly?

To fully clear everything so the transmission can drop - about 6 inches maybe. There's always enough backwards pull out room under the car for the jack. That's not an issue.

But the critical distance is the input shaft in the pilot bearing. That will be the bugaboo when reinstalling it. It sticks in the bearing about 3/4" (but will feel like a mile)

image.jpeg
 
To fully clear everything so the transmission can drop - about 6 inches maybe. There's always enough backwards pull out room under the car for the jack. That's not an issue.

But the critical distance is the input shaft in the pilot bearing. That will be the bugaboo when reinstalling it. It sticks in the bearing about 3/4" (but will feel like a mile)

View attachment 2402114
I think I got. Thank you all. I plan to do it this weekend and will report back when done.
 
i hope this is my last question.
Will the amount needed to lower the rear of the engine to allow the shifter cone to clear the floor require me to disconnect any throttle linkage or exhaust piping under the hood to prevent damage there?
Looks like the rear of the engine will need to be lowered almost an inch after removing the crossmember to allow the trans/tc to slide backward and clear the floor.
 
Jack and and wood 2x4 buffer between the jack and oil pan to get the correct placement and act as back-up.

Once the bell housing is off (supported by the jack and 2x4)

slide a 2x4 between the firewall and the back of the 2F block.

Remove the jack and engine will float magically on just the front engine mounts.

Enjoy with a cold beverage responsibly.

Reverse process to undo firewall 2x4.

Originally shared with me by @mattressking
 
I finally decided to just support the engine with a jack and block of wood under the oil pan. I guess I was just overthinking this whole project. Slid the trans/tc back about a foot. Replaced input shaft seal and pushed it all back together. . The output shaft seals and idler shaft o-ring I replaced with everything back in place. Thank you all for the tips and suggestions
 

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