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engine start in frame off resto

Discussion in '40- & 55-Series Tech' started by x-unimog404, Oct 1, 2003.

  1. x-unimog404

    x-unimog404

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    Ok .Got everything hooked up and tried it.
    No dice. Engine will turn over good, but no spark at plug.
    Voltage reads ok, 12.5 volts.
    Is there a simple test for the coil to see what voltage it is putting out?
    Distributer does have a pertronix module in it, so I will put in the spare stock one and try again.
    Rob
     
  2. cruiser_guy

    cruiser_guy

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    I'm doing the same thing in a '76 FJ55. What vacuum and air pump hoses are needed and what can I not worry about at this time. We're trying to see how good the compression is on the 2F to make an informed decision to either keep the 2F (preferable at this time due to $$$) or change to a 3B diesel. I need to warm it up to operating temperature to check compression and adjust valves.
    Also what goes in the lower radiator hose?? The hose diameter from the water pump is larger than the rad connection ???! Is there some kind of "T" for the heater or something that goes here or does the hose have a taper? I did not get the truck complete so I have nothing to go on :(.
    I'm more diesel inclined having driven diesel excusively for nearly 10 years!
     
  3. Cruiser_Nerd

    Cruiser_Nerd That 25 Guy. Moderator SILVER Star

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    Well, normally I would say to check the points first......it's pretty rare a coil goes bad.

    I never dealt with a Pertronix but thought they may be two wire, so I shamelessly lifted this:

    Wiring
    The wiring for these is very simple. The red wire goes to the positive side of the ignition coil. The black wire goes to the negative side of the ignition coil. The system does require a minimum of 1.5 Ohms (3.0 Ohms for 4 cylinder cars) across the two small terminals of the ignition coil. The Bosch "Red Coil" is perfect for the 6 cylinder cars and doesn't need an external resistor. The four cylinder cars just keep the 1.8 Ohm resistor that is normally used with the Red Coil. It does make for a clean installation since there is no control box needed.

    From here:

    http://www.mbzponton.org/valueadded/maintenance/ignitionpert/ignitionpert.htm

    Yeah, it's a Merc site but you're the Unimog guy.

    Good Luck,
    Jim
     
  4. Cruiser_Nerd

    Cruiser_Nerd That 25 Guy. Moderator SILVER Star

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    Cruiser Guy:

    '76 has too many gadgets and stuff, way too new for me. Makes my head hurt thinking about it. :doh: At least get a Haynes manual, there's lots of pictures.

    The '76 I think has the semi electronic ignition which is not difficult, but I don't remember what goes where off the top of my head. The Haynes has a pretty good diagram of it. Basically the same as my earlier description, but with an extra box between the positive and the coil. This ignition uses the second terminal on the starter solenoid to provide 12V to the ignition only during cranking.

    I'd just plug all the vacuum ports to fire it up. The bottom radiator hose has a tee for the heater, but I don't recall it being different sizes. Just rig it up to the radiator with whatever you've got.
     
  5. x-unimog404

    x-unimog404

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    Thanks for the tips Jim.
    That turned the trick.
    Re-connected the wires and it started right up.

    Thanks again. Rob.
     
  6. cruiser_guy

    cruiser_guy

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    Thanks Cruiser_Nerd,
    Yes, it has the ignitor with the coil, I've got the OEM 2F and emissions manuals to go by. I think I've got the electrics done right. Do I need to connect both fuel lines to the gas can?
    You say just plug all vacuum lines!?! Won't it run rough ???? Can I adjust the valves and set timing in this condition ???? If I connect all the vacuum hoses would I need to connect the air bypass valve as well (I think I'm missing that as I can't find anything that looks like I expect it to look like in the pile of leftovers we got with the truck)?
    Questions, questions!
     
  7. Cruiser_Nerd

    Cruiser_Nerd That 25 Guy. Moderator SILVER Star

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    Rob - :beer:

    Cruiser Guy - I thought you just wanted to warm it up to do a valve adjustment and compression check. I believe the extra line on the fuel pump is a return to the tank, not sure though. Sorry, most of what I know about the emissions stuff is from removing it. If you need it, you'll have to put it back right. If you don't, you may as well remove it now. There are some links here: http://www.ih8mud.com/ih8mud-tech.html If you decide to remove the smog equipment there are a lot of people who do need it, so don't scrap it.
     
  8. cruiser_guy

    cruiser_guy

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    Can't desmog it here in B.C. We have emissions testing as well, even on the diesels ??? None of the diesels I've owned has ever come even close to failing the smog test so I don't know what gives except me giving them money :mad: I'll ignore the vacuum hoses and smog stuff for now while I just test it and then smog it when we're ready to go.
     
  9. bad_religion_au

    bad_religion_au

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    "coils hardly ever go" WTF my 2f has eaten 3 coils so far