Engine Rebuilding options for S/C (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter NLXTACY
- Start date
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Here we are looking at the standard setup...
Start by unbolting the 4 bolts that secure the charcoal canister, 3 above the wheel well and 1 located along the inside fender.
Once you have removed the charcoal canister, remove OEM bracket and sit the canister aside, then move onto the fuse block. Note, there are 3 bolts located on the fender that will need to be removed.
Start by unbolting the 4 bolts that secure the charcoal canister, 3 above the wheel well and 1 located along the inside fender.
Once you have removed the charcoal canister, remove OEM bracket and sit the canister aside, then move onto the fuse block. Note, there are 3 bolts located on the fender that will need to be removed.
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Sweet, thanks Josh. A few pics may be all I need. Then I can go ahead and do a proper HOW TO for future installs.
Understand. We'll work through this then I'll adapt the notes and pics for a PDF installation guide for future reference... Thanks for blazing the trail on this first time kit assembly
Take the driver corner light out, take the bolts out of the battery box (just the ones that bolt to the fender), remove all the bolts from Lantanks bracket and move the canister aside and finally remove the bolts holding the fuse box.
Relocate the fuse box but before you bolt it down you need to put the thick plastic washer bottle in place (the battery box may need to be moved out of the way which is why the bolts were taken out of it). Hand tighten the bolts.
Put the thin plastic washer bottle into the fender through the driver corner light and secure to the other washer bottle.
Tighten the washer bottle bolts, replace battery box bolts, put the fuse box in place and tighten bolts and finally the charcoal canister bracket needs to go back into place.
Now the fun of relocating the wiring for the washer pump to the drivers side of the rig.
Relocate the fuse box but before you bolt it down you need to put the thick plastic washer bottle in place (the battery box may need to be moved out of the way which is why the bolts were taken out of it). Hand tighten the bolts.
Put the thin plastic washer bottle into the fender through the driver corner light and secure to the other washer bottle.
Tighten the washer bottle bolts, replace battery box bolts, put the fuse box in place and tighten bolts and finally the charcoal canister bracket needs to go back into place.
Now the fun of relocating the wiring for the washer pump to the drivers side of the rig.
As Tony notes removal of the DS headlight will help with gaining access for positioning the inner wiper bottle/ soft bladder once you are at that step.
Here I have the CC bracket removed and sitting to the side, next remove the stock fuse bracket by removing the 3 bolts located on the inner fender wall, 2 just inside the battery box the other 1 in front of the ABS actuator.
You can see removing the upper bolt will give you access to remove the stock fuse block bracket and slide the soon-to-be new wiper bottle bracket into place.
Here I have the CC bracket removed and sitting to the side, next remove the stock fuse bracket by removing the 3 bolts located on the inner fender wall, 2 just inside the battery box the other 1 in front of the ABS actuator.
You can see removing the upper bolt will give you access to remove the stock fuse block bracket and slide the soon-to-be new wiper bottle bracket into place.
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What goes into deciding the use of 10W40 vs 14W50 etc for the 80 model?
I don't completely agree with removing the battery box, you can see in the previous picture I am using a 10mm ratcheting box end wrench to remove both bolts. ( keep these you will need them to secure the outer water bottle). I was able to gain enough hand room by release the battery hold down and push the battery out of the way.
Using a regular screwdriver push the lock tab away from the fuse holder and gently pull up, next is to secure supplies fuse bracket parallel to DS battery box.
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NLXTACY
Wits' End
- Thread starter
- #472
For me it was relying on people who are infinitely more knowledgeable then myself. None of these new variants and synthetics were at all common when I was rebuilding engines. The MUD OIL ILLUMINATI have picked the Mobil 1 Diesel Truck 5w-40 as the holy grail of oils with the Delo 10w-40 pulling a close second. Since I've always used synthetics from my first oil change in the LX almost 14 years ago I figured why stop now? I also brought up the oil question to Martin Davidson, the guy who rebuilt my motor, and he agreed to using the Mobil 1. He's a fan after seeing some of the motors coming thru his shop.
VanGo said:
You will see the room is tight in there but it can be done without removing the bolts. When I did remove them I was able to push the top of the battery box towards the front of the rig to give just enough room to get the box in there without forcing it. To each his own but again I did NOT remove the box, just the few bolts in front to move the box out of the way.
Here you can see I am removing the stock fuse bracket, it's at this time you will start to notice where the inner bladder anchor points are located. The centered on the picture is the first of 3, the remaking 2 are locaed behind the ABS actuator.
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You will see the room is tight in there but it can be done without removing the bolts. When I did remove them I was able to push the top of the battery box towards the front of the rig to give just enough room to get the box in there without forcing it. To each his own but again I did NOT remove the box, just the few bolts in front to move the box out of the way.
No worries Tony, we are talking semantics, and without a install guide to follow, you are discovering how to do the install as you go.
As mentioned in your other thread, just search for my JDM headlight washer thread. It shows how you need to trim the charcoal canister bracket to fit with your '91-'92 fuse box bracket, so that it will line up perfectly, and remove some now unused tabs that get in the way and no longer serve a purpose.
You may also need to bend LT's bracket so that the the charcoal canister bracket will not rub on the upper intake.
Hope that helps. Good luck.
You may also need to bend LT's bracket so that the the charcoal canister bracket will not rub on the upper intake.
Hope that helps. Good luck.
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NLXTACY
Wits' End
- Thread starter
- #479
401 gone for the time being. I'm sure it will come back again. Anyway I spent the entire day in the garage today.
Finally got to installing the new windshield washer JDM style. This was a huge pain in the ass and didn't help that was doing two other projects at the same time. I still need to fill it up with some windshield washer fluid/methanol. Wondering if I could double duty this dual tank as a methanol injection system for the SC. Hmm....
Finally got to installing the new windshield washer JDM style. This was a huge pain in the ass and didn't help that was doing two other projects at the same time. I still need to fill it up with some windshield washer fluid/methanol. Wondering if I could double duty this dual tank as a methanol injection system for the SC. Hmm....
NLXTACY
Wits' End
- Thread starter
- #480
Since I had to remove all the brackets to get to the JDM washer I figured I might as well FINALLY install the AMW PCV oil catch can. I'm happy with the location. I just need to cut off a tab from the CC that isn't needed anymore. The hoses either need to be replaced with silicone or I need some different clamps. I hate the style supplied. I will check it in a few weeks to see how much oil actually gets collected.
