Engine Rebuild - What happened to my head? (1 Viewer)

[ChargedFZJ]

Hi All,
I bought a used engine a few weeks ago from a Landcruiser salvage yard in Utah. The engine has 148K miles on it. My plan is to replace all seals, head gasket and whatever while you’re in there to bring the engine to its top shape and swap it with my current engine at 272K miles.
First thing I did was take off the head and sent it to the machine shop along with other bits and pieces to get cleaned.
I got the head back from the machine shop about a week ago but before I put it back on I wanted to replace the rear main seal and upper/lower oil pan seals. A couple days ago I had a fellow mud member help with the rear main seal. Today I started on cleaning oil pans and completed putting it back together with FIPG.
Next was the head. I put the OEM gasket in and torque ARP head studs to spec. Then moved on to dropping in the exhaust valve shims. Everything went smoothly but I had issues getting #4 and #5 shims to drop in place. Upon further inspection I noticed some marring on the head of #4 and #5. The worst is on #5. I don’t want to force them in at this point.
I think the machine shop muck them up. Attached are some pictures of the marring. What are my options at this point?

 

[baldilocks]

Seems like you need to talk to the machine shop and see where you can get with them first. This isn’t something that can be corrected properly with a piece of emery clothe in my opinion.

 

[ChargedFZJ]

Sorry for the noob question this is my first rebuild. Everything is pretty straight forward and smooth sailing until this issue.
So this is easily correctable by the machine shop? Also will I need to take the head off again and order new OEM gasket?

 

[baldilocks]

The head will need to be removed no matter how this is corrected and if it were me, I would definitely start over with a new head gasket. What did you torque the head studs to?

 

[ChargedFZJ]

The head will need to be removed no matter how this is corrected and if it were me, I would definitely start over with a new head gasket. What did you torque the head studs to?

Thanks @baldilocks!
ARP calls for 80ftlbs so that’s where I torqued them to. Should I go higher?
This was a reputable machine shop that was recommended to me. I’m pretty sure they’ll make things right. Wonder what they did to have caused this marring?
I’m replacing everything with OEM parts wherever possible. I got the valve cover back from powder coating this week and tried it on to cover the valve up. This is a blocker until I get this resolved.

 

[BILT4ME]

Maybe take some pictures in to them and advise what you see and see if they have a solution BEFORE you pull the head again.

Maybe they'll reimburse your HG cost as well.

 

[ChargedFZJ]

Maybe take some pictures in to them and advise what you see and see if they have a solution BEFORE you pull the head again.

Maybe they'll reimburse your HG cost as well.

Good call. This is the plan first thing Monday when they open.

 

[Kernal]

Could a (?pneumatic) spring compressor not lined up correctly cause that damage?

 

[BILT4ME]

Could a (?pneumatic) spring compressor not lined up correctly cause that damage?

That's what it looks like to me.

 

[baldilocks]

Thanks @baldilocks!
ARP calls for 80ftlbs so that’s where I torqued them to. Should I go higher?
This was a reputable machine shop that was recommended to me. I’m pretty sure they’ll make things right. Wonder what they did to have caused this marring?
I’m replacing everything with OEM parts wherever possible. I got the valve cover back from powder coating this week and tried it on to cover the valve up. This is a blocker until I get this resolved.

View attachment 2570595

View attachment 2570597

I installed studs to 80lbft a few years ago but then rolled that cruiser 9 months later so the engine has sat in my garage for five years. I wondered how well the head gasket would perform over the long term without going back to do a second torque on the studs. Many have use studs instead of the torque to yield bolts and only one member that I know of actually pulled the cams to do the second torque sequence after one heat cycle and thus far I’ve heard of no problems from anyone who used the studs.