Engine rebuild and better MPG? (1 Viewer)

[Hilux]

This tech is ripe with unrealistic expectations....


Here's what I want.

I want a, built like Fort Knox, AWD, SUV that gets good MPG.

If it doesn't, I want to spend mucho mullah to make it!

Take my lift, tires, sliders, roof rack, bull bar, winch, spare tire carrier and highlift off!...ARE YA'LL NUTS!! No way am I taking all that off....but I want more MPG and by golly I'ma get it!

Drive a "Dave Ramsey special"? Ya'll are nuts again...it'll be old...and break down all the time!....NO WAY!
I can work on my 1fz, but I draw the line at working on a $1k, Honda Accord...


pft! I'm with you guys!



Someone needs to step up to the plate and make an Aluminum frame for the 80s

 

[bugsnbikes]

First, the Landtank MAF housing and the newer Toyota MAF are for 95-97 trucks ONLY. Yours uses an AFM fuel system.

IMHO, the best you can expect on a regular, repeatable basis would be 16MPG highway. That is with no lift, no heavy armour, stock tyres, and doing accurate MPG calculations. (Rarity around 'Mud these days. ) Definitely no safari style roof rack.

To accomplish this you would need to get yourself some good DD tyres on a set of alloy (i.e. light weight) wheels, pump the tyres to 40psi or more if you can stand it, use good synthetics for diffs, Xfer, and engine, and drive like a grandpa (meaning 55mph MAXIMUM). Good tune up, cleaned intake, fresh plugs and wires and all the other things to get your engine running PERFECTLY! You will see some trips at 17, maybe even 18, but I believe your day-in day-out average will be closer to 16MPG highway (probably 14 city)

You *might* be able to squeeze out another 1MPG by removing the front DS, installing selectable front hubs, and locking the center diff. This basically puts the truck in 2WD.

IMHO, you will have a neutered truck but you could still call it a DD and it is still a Land Cruiser and it still looks pretty good albeit a bit anemic compared to your lifted rig on 35" mud tyres.

My 2c.

-B-

No need to drop back to 31's at all to get stock gas mileage--weight reduction to offset mods- aerodynamic drag (no roofracks-tents-etc)-rolling resistance and tall skinnys coupled with a light right foot.

Im still eeking out 14/16 driving like a granny w/33"mts (255/85)-slee shortbus- warn 8k/synth rope-metaltech sliders-slee tcase plate-removed stock roofrack-full amsoil. Most of the weight of all mods is close to whats been removed with losing all 3 rows of heavy leather seating-and adding only stock cloth fronts. weight and aerodynamic drag are the two largest factors. Smart mods with an eye toward weight reduction-coupled with granny right foot mentality can get you another 2-4mpg easy.........

 

[walleyefisher]

Do the Chevy conversion....and use a 305

 

[Hilux]

Do the Chevy conversion....and use a 305

I dis-agree. With the Torque the 454 puts out, you could easily run a lift and upwards of a 35" tire. Doing this would solve multiple problems. 1st off you won't have to re-gear your diffs Since nobody likes, wants or thinks it necessary to do anyway for a top end producing motor. This can be done with the low end producer like the 454. And since the lift is most often the 1st mod anyway (complaining about the MPG is #2) swapping to the 454 would go hand in hand with the lift and tire.

Plus, its a sleepy motor, and the less RPMs it needs to turn should mean the less fuel it needs to use.


There. You have my vote!....454!!!


And an aluminum frame

(wonder if you can stick a windmill up out of the hood and
convert it to electricity? )



**EDIT** doh! what was I thinking? And swapping in a 454 has got to be cheaper than rebuilding a 1fz!!! There ya go! 4 good reasons why it needs a 454!

 

[bugsnbikes]

I dis-agree.

Plus, its a sleepy motor, and the less RPMs it needs to turn should mean the less fuel it needs to use.

Hehehe- 454. With a 6000lb cruiser and 35"+ tires--you will be lucky to get 6-8mpg off idle....Opec salutes you

If you have to run larger tires- 5.3vortec will get the best mpgs and push big tires- same install costs- bigger electrical headache. But the vortec is a throwaway 100k-mile-v8 versus a Toyota V8 if you are going that direction.

The reality is- we are 2-3 years max away from Toyota diesels in the U.S. and im guessing the diesel V8 which will push 37s to 25mpg. The question is simply how to limp ourselves along and have the most cash in hand to plunk down 60k for a Diesel V8 Troopy when it hits the US ports.

 

[Brian894X4]

I agree the coolent system is not overtaxed when operating properly. After doing a complete cooling system rebuilt, my scangauge temps fell to a normal 181 degrees, which is cooler than most other cars I've driven. It sometimes averages 184 when it's really hot and only goes slightly higher than that on extremely hot days and long hills. I've been very impressed with it. Especially with all the stuff I have blocking the airflow to the radiator.

The scangauge is almost somewhat useful in calculation under what conditions the LC is more fuel effecient and if there's one thing that kills mileage above all else on my rig, its speed.

Peak effeciency seems to be around 45-55 mph and it just goes downhill from there, so if anyone is running at higher freeway speeds like 65-75, they are losing out on at least several mpg. I also think the 1FZ likes to run at lower rpms. I didn't accept this at first, since I came a from 22RE in a very heavy truck and the 22RE ran more effeciently at higher rpms on the highway, like 2800+. Any lower and the heavy load would bog down the engine and more fuel was wasted even though the rpms were lower.

I think the 1FZ has plenty of low end torque to maintain speed at a lower rpm than stock and could possibily benefit from taller tires or higher gearing on at least the highway. The problem with taller tires, is that you increase hieght, which adds drag, so it probably offsets some of the gains.

Just from a fuel mileage point of view, it would be interesting to see what an FZJ80 could do with something like 3.50ish gears, very narrow stock hieght tires, stock lift, a 5 speed manual and locking hubs with a real part time T-case. And also a stock body with no winch bumper or roof rack.

 

[hj60]

A Troopy? C'mon. It'll be in the Tundra and nothing else. Nothing else to compete with. And don't say the Ford Excretion. That's a niche vehicle at best nowadays.

But, to keep this on topic-ish...
If you're gonna buy an econo-sedan and stow the 80, may I recommend doing so on jackstands? And if you can't garage it, cover your tires. Especially in hotter climes. 4 tires with flat spots suck. Accelerated rotting sucks. And tire prices are about to follow fuel prices in a hurry. Tires contain lots of oil.

 

[Cj80cruiser]

No need to drop back to 31's at all to get stock gas mileage--weight reduction to offset mods- aerodynamic drag (no roofracks-tents-etc)-rolling resistance and tall skinnys coupled with a light right foot.

Im still eeking out 14/16 driving like a granny w/33"mts (255/85)-slee shortbus- warn 8k/synth rope-metaltech sliders-slee tcase plate-removed stock roofrack-full amsoil. Most of the weight of all mods is close to whats been removed with losing all 3 rows of heavy leather seating-and adding only stock cloth fronts. weight and aerodynamic drag are the two largest factors. Smart mods with an eye toward weight reduction-coupled with granny right foot mentality can get you another 2-4mpg easy.........

I already drive like a grandpa which is probably why I get almost 13mpg with this ill running engine I have. There is a lot of carbon buildup in my engine that i can see from looking in the oil fill hole and PCV hole. The way I drive----slowly increase speed to 5mph over speed limit and stay back from vehicles in front of me so I don't have to apply my brakes. I started out trying to get better MPG on other trucks I've owned but because of my OCD I can't stop.