And the hotter t-stat seems to work better. I know it sounds nuts.
Engine Overheating (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter AnthroHowl
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Update to battling the overheating issue.
I installed the following:
I installed the following:
- Aisin Water Pump
- Aisin Fan Clutch FCT-017
- Heater Hoses - radiator, oil cooler, rear heater, heater core, etc.
- New Belts
- Thermostat Housing + Aisin Thermostat
- Radiator Cap
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- Thread starter
- #23
Photos Continued:
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- #24
I added coolant the next day and tried my best to burp the coolant system. Bought the kit from O'reillys which seems to get some of the air out. Now here's were it gets strange, she would start to overheat at idle unless the heater was cranked on high and there is no roar from the fan clutch. Which was fine, but the heater kept tripping the breaker and eventually the engine would over heat. Basically I am stuck at this point. I checked the oil for the milky color and consistency to see if the head gasket was leaking coolant to the oil. Didn't see any of that. I have done nothing to the radiator nor have i pressure tested the coolant system. I will say that she sounds a hell of a lot better than before but still overheats. What else could be causing the overheating issue? Should I elevate the front end to get trapped air out? and what could be causing the heater to trip the breaker (this never happened before)? Thanks in advance for any advice...
~Alex
~Alex
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There's still air in the cooling system.
There's an air bubble under the temp sender.
It can take a dozen heat cold cycles with driving to purge the air. Until its gone, the gauge will read high.
I bet the old radiator doesn't cool as well as a new one.
Get an infrared thermometer gun. Point it at the front of the radiator directly across from the inlet. It should read between 193 and 198 degrees when engine is warmed up but hasn't been driven yet.
There's an air bubble under the temp sender.
It can take a dozen heat cold cycles with driving to purge the air. Until its gone, the gauge will read high.
I bet the old radiator doesn't cool as well as a new one.
Get an infrared thermometer gun. Point it at the front of the radiator directly across from the inlet. It should read between 193 and 198 degrees when engine is warmed up but hasn't been driven yet.
Hi, Flush,flush and flush some more. Mike
lcolon
SILVER Star
When I burp my truck I do 2 things:
1. Put it up on ramps so the front end is high. Once started let idle for 30min periodically revving the engine up to circulate things. It should NOT overheat at all this way even with the radiator cap off. Make sure both heater controls are all the way open (under seat heater and main heater on the dash)
2. I use a burping funnel - something like this that I got from MAC tools... You can get these readily on amazon. Here is an example: Coolant Funnel
As others have said, the gauge may read a little high until you cycle it a few times. Keep an eye on the coolant bottle.
If it is still overheating, look for bubbling in the coolant bottle from the overflow tube. You can also get a chemical block test kit at Napa with the blue fluid to sample gasses coming off the radiator. If you do this, buy a turkey baster so that you can lower the coolant level before using the block test kit (you don't want to suck any coolant up into it).
Finally - if all else fails, do a leak down test on your cylinders and really spray around the intake manifold and vacuum lines looking for any leaks.
These items should get you started on sorting it out. I also installed an aftermarket mechanical gauge into the upper radiator hose to have a sense of the actual temps the coolant is running at. You can also run the gauge off the block but they generally require a bunch of pipe adapters which can cause a bubble.
1. Put it up on ramps so the front end is high. Once started let idle for 30min periodically revving the engine up to circulate things. It should NOT overheat at all this way even with the radiator cap off. Make sure both heater controls are all the way open (under seat heater and main heater on the dash)
2. I use a burping funnel - something like this that I got from MAC tools... You can get these readily on amazon. Here is an example: Coolant Funnel
As others have said, the gauge may read a little high until you cycle it a few times. Keep an eye on the coolant bottle.
If it is still overheating, look for bubbling in the coolant bottle from the overflow tube. You can also get a chemical block test kit at Napa with the blue fluid to sample gasses coming off the radiator. If you do this, buy a turkey baster so that you can lower the coolant level before using the block test kit (you don't want to suck any coolant up into it).
Finally - if all else fails, do a leak down test on your cylinders and really spray around the intake manifold and vacuum lines looking for any leaks.
These items should get you started on sorting it out. I also installed an aftermarket mechanical gauge into the upper radiator hose to have a sense of the actual temps the coolant is running at. You can also run the gauge off the block but they generally require a bunch of pipe adapters which can cause a bubble.
