Engine Oil Pan (06 LC) nuts/torque/gasket (1 Viewer)

[MHLC2006]

Hello Guys, hope all are staying safe.

Can someone tell me what are factory torque specs for the engine oil pan the very bottom black one.

Also, does it use a gasket? toyota telling me a gasket paste is enough and this model doesnt have one. I checked the internet and fel-pro does sell one for this model. I think a good gasket is better then just the sealant? please share any thoughts on this. Should i use the felpro or no?

 

[JunkCrzr89]

No gasket. Use Toyota FIPG to seal it.

 

[2001LC]

Hello Guys, hope all are staying safe.

Can someone tell me what are factory torque specs for the engine oil pan the very bottom black one.

Also, does it use a gasket? toyota telling me a gasket paste is enough and this model doesnt have one. I checked the internet and fel-pro does sell one for this model. I think a good gasket is better then just the sealant? please share any thoughts on this. Should i use the felpro or no?

If your asking because you're planning on fixing an oil leak. I'd be very sure of what is leaking. I've yet to see a factory installed pan leak!

No gasket. Use Toyota FIPG to seal it.
View attachment 2413820

Oil level sensor connector >>

 

[JunkCrzr89]

If your asking because you're planning on fixing an oil leak. I'd be very sure of what is leaking. I've yet to see a factory installed pan leak!

I agree. Honestly, aside from a 60 yr-old F engine, I’ve never seen a pan on any other Toyotas leak! Plenty of valve cover gaskets and front crank/rear main seal leaks, though.

Oil level sensor connector >>

I’ve yet to find this on my 2uz. Does it actually exist?

 

[MHLC2006]

Guys I agree but we had to remove the pan to do something else. It was not leaking before as factory. Now the guy who put it doesn’t seems to seal it properly. There is a slight leak from two rear bolts. We did change the valve cover gaskets they were leaking.
So how to read the specs here for the bolts? Foolish question I know it is 66 in lbs? What is 7.5 and 80 there in the pick?

 

[2001LC]

I’ve yet to find this on my 2uz. Does it actually exist?

No, not on 100 series 4.7L 2UZ. Error in diagram or one from other engine perhaps.

Guys I agree but we had to remove the pan to do something else. It was not leaking before as factory. Now the guy who put it doesn’t seems to seal it properly. There is a slight leak from two rear bolts. We did change the valve cover gaskets they were leaking.
So how to read the specs here for the bolts? Foolish question I know it is 66 in lbs? What is 7.5 and 80 there in the pick?

Those are different scale (N-m, Kgf-cm & ft-lbf. The exception when inch is always clearly marked in-lbf. Just use 66 INCH lbf. Be clear that is not FT-lbt (foot lbf), it is inch pound per foot. That is a supper lite torque. You need a 1/4" drive torque wrench.

The difficult part of sealing a pan with engine in vehicle. The pan seal area must be dry and clean, where FIPG 103 applied. OIl will run down the block and upper pan for weeks, as engine sit with lower pan off. Any oil on seal area, it will likely leak.

 

[MHLC2006]

Thanks guys. The FIPG comes in 3oz tube. How many would I need?

 

[MHLC2006]

No gasket. Use Toyota FIPG to seal it.
View attachment 2413820

Whats the part number for the x20 oil pan bolts? appreciate if you can share.

 

[Eyedaho]

it is inch pound per foot.

That's actually inch pounds of force. No feet involved with inch pounds, unless you divide by twelve.

 

[JunkCrzr89]

Whats the part number for the x20 oil pan bolts? appreciate if you can share.

9011906755

 

[medtro]

I agree. Honestly, aside from a 60 yr-old F engine, I’ve never seen a pan on any other Toyotas leak! Plenty of valve cover gaskets and front crank/rear main seal leaks, though.

I am guessing you didn't look at 1FZFE engine.

 

[JunkCrzr89]

I am guessing you didn't look at 1FZFE engine.

Only one. It wasn’t leaking from the pan *at that time*.

 

[zhloea]

No, not on 100 series 4.7L 2UZ. Error in diagram or one from other engine perhaps.

Those are different scale (N-m, Kgf-cm & ft-lbf. The exception when inch is always clearly marked in-lbf. Just use 66 INCH lbf. Be clear that is not FT-lbt (foot lbf), it is inch pound per foot. That is a supper lite torque. You need a 1/4" drive torque wrench.

The difficult part of sealing a pan with engine in vehicle. The pan seal area must be dry and clean, where FIPG 103 applied. OIl will run down the block and upper pan for weeks, as engine sit with lower pan off. Any oil on seal area, it will likely leak.

Hi, seems I got some lower oil pan leaking, it is not enough for a dripping but many wet marks, since I did my valve cover gasket a couple of months ago, I am sure it is not the valve cover.

So if I want to reseal the gasket, would I have to lift the engine for removing the lower member?
And you said it also could be a level sensor connector leaking? where is that connector?

Thanks!

 

[2001LC]

I've never done a pan re-seal, while in the vehicle. Only time I've done one is out during engine swap (see The Unicorn).

Here's what I'd do: Degrease the area totally. The take a picture of it completely clean and dry, from front to back, all sides, above and below.

Then drive 10 or 20 miles.

Then take another picture.

Keep repeating until first sign of oil emerges, so you can pinpoint leak.

I'll bet you save yourself a pan reseal job.

Oils from of a few places:
-Oil dipstick to upper pan O-ring. Yet to see one not weeping. Very easy fix.
-Oil from above. like head cover (re-torque to 53IN-lbf)
-Oil from above. Spillage while filling crankcase.
-Oil from in front. Like oil filter messy or lose install.
-Oil from in front Oil filter or cooler bracket. Common after a steering rack job, where some has removed bracket needlesslee.

The worst will be oil leaks from evey rubber seal (which pans are not). This is from using High Mileage Oil. Never use the stuff, every!

 

[zhloea]

I've never done a pan re-seal, while in the vehicle. Only time I've done one is out during engine swap (see The Unicorn).

Here's what I'd do: Degrease the area totally. The take a picture of it completely clean and dry, from front to back, all sides, above and below.

Then drive 10 or 20 miles.

Then take another picture.

Keep repeating until first sign of oil emerges, so you can pinpoint leak.

I'll bet you save yourself a pan reseal job.

Oils from of a few places:
-Oil dipstick to upper pan O-ring. Yet to see one not weeping. Very easy fix.
-Oil from above. like head cover (re-torque to 53IN-lbf)
-Oil from above. Spillage while filling crankcase.
-Oil from in front. Like oil filter messy or lose install.
-Oil from in front Oil filter or cooler bracket. Common after a steering rack job, where some has removed bracket needlesslee.

The worst will be oil leaks from evey rubber seal (which pans are not). This is from using High Mileage Oil. Never use the stuff, every!

Thank you, Sir, I do start to use "Mobile 1 High mileage" for about two months (don't know if pre-owner used it or not), what to do now?
If the high-mileage oil related to this will switch back to regular Mobile 1 5w-30 help the issue? or need to add something like Lucas stop leaking? (I did not find leaking from another place high than the lower oil pan area, but I do find the area around the dipstick o ring has some dirty oil leftover).

 

[GlennA FJ60]

Thank you, Sir, I do start to use "Mobile 1 High mileage" for about two months (don't know if pre-owner used it or not), what to do now?
If the high-mileage oil related to this will switch back to regular Mobile 1 5w-30 help the issue? or need to add something like Lucas stop leaking? (I did not find leaking from another place high than the lower oil pan area, but I do find the area around the dipstick o ring has some dirty oil leftover).

Watching this, My mechanic said I had an upper oil pan leak, requiring them to pull the engine. Even though I have 327k on my 2006 I am starting to doubt it. She's def leaking though.