In this case, yes.
VALVE ASSY, OIL COOLER RELIEF 1569550010 | Toyota Parts | PartSouq
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Good plan.
Engine oil cooler gasket woes - huge oil leak
- Thread starter alwaysbored786
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In this case, yes.
Good plan.
I do too.
After my first figure 8 o-ring install slipped & pinched. I've been used Nylog on both, to hold in place..
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Correct, relief valve and the seal it uses (regardless construction) is sold as a set.
Part # 15695-50010
Also make sure all of your mating surfaces are clean and flat. Be certain any grooves/inlets for O-Rings are clean and free of debris. I had to dig the O-Ring out of mine in small bits....it was rock hard.
Remember to torque to 51 ft. lbs.
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- Thread starter
- #26
I pinched the gasket, turns out that bump I thought was a passage, was actually part of the gasket that was rock hard in there.
I did notice in my coolant inlet port, there is some rubbery looking material in there, this doesn't seem normal, should I fish it out, is this part of the cooler?
I did notice in my coolant inlet port, there is some rubbery looking material in there, this doesn't seem normal, should I fish it out, is this part of the cooler?
ramangain
Clarksonian disciple
Don't take this the wrong way, but you dun screwed dat up real good.
Nice that you found the root cause and can fix it!
Nice that you found the root cause and can fix it!
before i got to the end of the first page i wanted to say you probably pinched the O ring. when it comes to pressurized oil/fluid and orings they have to be perfect the first time. ive seen several failures in fluid power systems where the Oring got pinched. best of luck!
I soak mine in a mix of Berryman Chem-Dip carb cleaner and kerosene. I keep a can of Berryman around for parts cleaning projects.
I've done this on my other Toyota before the 100 series so I knew what to expect.
These parts need to be squeaky clean for reassembly.
I've done this on my other Toyota before the 100 series so I knew what to expect.
These parts need to be squeaky clean for reassembly.
- Thread starter
- #30
Lol no offense taken! Been up to my ears in car projects and I got lazy with this task, clearly goofed up! Glad I figured it out though
Good tip! I'll be wire wheeling this clean as much as I can
And input on the rubber inside the coolant inlet pipe?
I would try to blow it out from the other side with compressed air after using a pick to work it loose. Hard to say without physically having it in hand.
It almost looks like some RTV was floating around in the cooling system that became lodged in the cooler fins.
Berryman straight strength will loosen RTV -- it's just a slow process.
- Thread starter
- #32
Good idea with the blowing it out technique, I'll give that a go. This car is just full of surprises. I spent the money for a well taken care of truck, and I got a truck that needs TONS of work, ah well.
Hey guys... i did this repair on my 2006 Toyota Tundra with the same 4.7l 2uz-fe engine. The Tundra forums arent really that helpful most of the time. Which is why I love ih8mud. Awesome info here..
Symptoms I had were oil leaking from the oil filter area, around oil cooler housing so when I did my oil change I wanted to change out the oil cooler housing o-ring - 90301-67004. I did'nt change the figure 8 o-ring (which I also had) for the housing because that needed me to take out the a/c compressor as one of the bolts (at least on the Tundra) is behind it. Which was a pain so I took a chance and just changed the bigger o-ring.
So anyways here's what I learnt while changing the oil cooler housing o-ring -
1. Read the FSM manual before changing. Cause I didn't think I needed to change the Anti-freeze. The coolant line literally stuck to the oil housing. So if you are changing the o-ring make sure you have some silicone plugs to plug this up if you dont want to lose your precious red Toyota antifreeze.
2. The oil union bolt is 32mm IIRC so make sure you have such a big bolt socket to remove it.
3. My o-ring was going bad as in when I tried removing it most of it came out fine but there was a part that became hard plastic that broke off in the o-ring grove - this part likely was not doing do what it was supposed to be doing.
4. I slightly scored the o-ring grove removing my o-ring b/c of how hard it was stuck on there. So take your time removing the o-ring. If you have time use some loosening solvents or something similar to not score the o-ring grove. (See pic)
5. Clean the 2 mating surfaces very well. I used 1000 grit wet sand paper to clean it up. Not sure if I should be using that but thats all I had for the time being.
6. The Union bolt Torque setting is 50 ft lbs to put it back on
I had to refill my anti-freeze again since I did'nt have plugs to plug the hoses up.
Its been 3 days since the fix..and I have had no small oil leaks yet. So I am hope this was the fix.
Symptoms I had were oil leaking from the oil filter area, around oil cooler housing so when I did my oil change I wanted to change out the oil cooler housing o-ring - 90301-67004. I did'nt change the figure 8 o-ring (which I also had) for the housing because that needed me to take out the a/c compressor as one of the bolts (at least on the Tundra) is behind it. Which was a pain so I took a chance and just changed the bigger o-ring.
So anyways here's what I learnt while changing the oil cooler housing o-ring -
1. Read the FSM manual before changing. Cause I didn't think I needed to change the Anti-freeze. The coolant line literally stuck to the oil housing. So if you are changing the o-ring make sure you have some silicone plugs to plug this up if you dont want to lose your precious red Toyota antifreeze.
2. The oil union bolt is 32mm IIRC so make sure you have such a big bolt socket to remove it.
3. My o-ring was going bad as in when I tried removing it most of it came out fine but there was a part that became hard plastic that broke off in the o-ring grove - this part likely was not doing do what it was supposed to be doing.
4. I slightly scored the o-ring grove removing my o-ring b/c of how hard it was stuck on there. So take your time removing the o-ring. If you have time use some loosening solvents or something similar to not score the o-ring grove. (See pic)
5. Clean the 2 mating surfaces very well. I used 1000 grit wet sand paper to clean it up. Not sure if I should be using that but thats all I had for the time being.
6. The Union bolt Torque setting is 50 ft lbs to put it back on
I had to refill my anti-freeze again since I did'nt have plugs to plug the hoses up.
Its been 3 days since the fix..and I have had no small oil leaks yet. So I am hope this was the fix.
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How big are your hands?
How flexible are you?
What is your level of patience?
Unless you happen to also be replacing your steering rack.....it is isn't an item that is easy to reach or work on....but can be done.
IMO it isn't something you want to do twice, so look carefully and determine if any or all of the three hoses need replacing while you are in there. Be sure to fully disassemble the oil cooler, clean it well and replace ALL the seals. Be careful when reinstalling not to pinch or tear the figure 8 seal. Use something to keep it in place (grease, vasoline, nylog, etc).
JunkCrzr89
Competent Ignoramoose
Although I agree, I think that if any of the other coolant hoses need replaced then the oil cooler hoses probably do too. I replaced 100% of the coolant hoses preventatively, including the oil cooler and rear heater hoses under the truck. The rearmost oil cooler hose was in particularly bad condition despite visually appearing OK while on the truck.
And x2 on the figure 8 seal - I used a tiny bit of grease to hold the new one in place - and also cleaning out the oil cooler with compressed air. Both good ideas as @flintknapper noted.
How big are your hands?
How flexible are you?
What is your level of patience?
Unless you happen to also be replacing your steering rack.....it is isn't an item that is easy to reach or work on....but can be done.
IMO it isn't something you want to do twice, so look carefully and determine if any or all of the three hoses need replacing while you are in there. Be sure to fully disassemble the oil cooler, clean it well and replace ALL the seals. Be careful when reinstalling not to pinch or tear the figure 8 seal. Use something to keep it in place (grease, vasoline, nylog, etc).
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The previous owner of my 100 had the steering rack replaced before i bought it and i am 99% sure they pulled the oil cooler off of the block (worm hose clamp on both sides of the oil cooler coolant hoses). So who knows if they replaced the seal.
Not too big of hands, long arms, pretty flexible, and have two kids under 4 (so pretty patient). i have some nylog on order and have replaced all those hoses except for the one from the block to the oil cooler, which i have ordered along with oem clamps. I also ordered two figure 8 seals, and 2 of the other round seals.
I am going to pick up some wobble sockets, and maybe some crowfoot sockets too to help.
Piece of cake....comparatively then.
Removing it is not too difficult, but reinstalling it must be done with some finesse.
Just saw this was "Easy", figured weather is good in Denver go ahead and start tomorrow draining coolant and hit it Wednesday.. Yep i got a new hose/clamps, 2 sets of o-rings incase i muck it up.
Does anyone know the torque values for the bolts into the block?
Also would it make sense to remove the cooler bolt on with the second half on the truck for more room to get the bolt/nuts holding it on the block?