Engine oil cooler gasket woes - huge oil leak (1 Viewer)

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Gotta take the hose off side of the oil cooler.
And did you get the nut off (circled).

With a 30mm socket I also removed the oil cooler portion for ease of removal.
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What are the odds…

I just recently did an oil change and now I’ve got a leak between the cooler and filter bracket. For reference my 99 LX has 307k mikes and this just started.

Has anyone just replaced the big O ring without removing the entire unit from the block? Anything I should be aware of before diving in?
 
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Gotta take the hose off side of the oil cooler.
And did you get the nut off (circled).

With a 30mm socket I also removed the oil cooler portion for ease of removal.
View attachment 2948874
Yes sir I did get that nut off but haven't pulled the hose off that side yet. Figured it would budge a little with the hose still on but nothing.
 
What are the odds…

I just recently did an oil change and now I’ve got a leak between the cooler and filter bracket. It’s blowing oil all over the bottom of the engine and as far back as the front differential. I had to wipe everything down to confirm this was the source of the leak. For reference my 99 LX has 307k mikes and this just started.

Has anyone just replaced the big O ring without removing the entire unit from the block? Anything I should be aware of before diving in?
Just curious if anyone has just replaced the big O ring without removing the entire assembly from the block?
 
Just curious if anyone has just replaced the big O ring without removing the entire assembly from the block?
I haven't and since I've come this far I'm doing all 3 at the same time. They were original on mine and I got 339K miles out of them.
 
Just curious if anyone has just replaced the big O ring without removing the entire assembly from the block?
Essentially I did. I took the filter housing/ cooler apart on the truck to make it easier to get to the rest of the bolts and assembled vice versa.
 
I've got an '01 LX470 with 200K on it that I bought back in June and I'm having the "one thing after another" with it. Anyway, this problem looks like the latest for me. So I have a quick question (and probably a dumb one): Do I need to burp the radiator after losing the fluid in the block, or just top off and go?

Thanks in advance!
 
The 2UZ pushes the air out pretty easily and if you're just swapping that hose you should be fine. Either way top off the system ( res and radiator ) bring up to operating temp. Let cool for full 8 hours and check levels, top off accordingly. Monitoring engine temps from a scanner is always a good idea to as the 2UZ ages it helps give you an idea of how everything is functioning.


And for random reading entertainment, the first mega cruiser to sell in USA ( I think )
>>1996 Toyota Mega Cruiser - Rare Civilian Model, Left-Hand Drive, U.S. Title, Reviewed by Doug DeMuro - https://carsandbids.com/auctions/9X7kkaGz/1996-toyota-mega-cruiser
 
The 2UZ pushes the air out pretty easily and if you're just swapping that hose you should be fine. Either way top off the system ( res and radiator ) bring up to operating temp. Let cool for full 8 hours and check levels, top off accordingly. Monitoring engine temps from a scanner is always a good idea to as the 2UZ ages it helps give you an idea of how everything is functioning.


And for random reading entertainment, the first mega cruiser to sell in USA ( I think )
>>1996 Toyota Mega Cruiser - Rare Civilian Model, Left-Hand Drive, U.S. Title, Reviewed by Doug DeMuro - https://carsandbids.com/auctions/9X7kkaGz/1996-toyota-mega-cruiser
Thanks for the quick response. That's good advice about monitoring the engine temps. I'll pick up one of those OBDII scanners and plug it into the port.
 
Thanks for the quick response. That's good advice about monitoring the engine temps. I'll pick up one of those OBDII scanners and plug it into the port.
For sure, even the basic scanners will connect to your phone and provide engine temps. Some of the more spendy options will give you more info like transmission temperatures.
Keep it under 200 degrees and it'll be happy. On hot summer days under load I am in the high 190's and in winter she is 10-20 degrees cooler.

Heat is the killer of all machines , keep it cool and lubed and it won't die.
 
For sure, even the basic scanners will connect to your phone and provide engine temps. Some of the more spendy options will give you more info like transmission temperatures.
Keep it under 200 degrees and it'll be happy. On hot summer days under load I am in the high 190's and in winter she is 10-20 degrees cooler.

Heat is the killer of all machines , keep it cool and lubed and it won't die.
One more question, will my 12 point, 30mm axle nut socket get that "relief valve" bolt in the middle of the housing out of there? Thanks again in advance.
 
The 2UZ pushes the air out pretty easily and if you're just swapping that hose you should be fine. Either way top off the system ( res and radiator ) bring up to operating temp. Let cool for full 8 hours and check levels, top off accordingly. Monitoring engine temps from a scanner is always a good idea to as the 2UZ ages it helps give you an idea of how everything is functioning.


And for random reading entertainment, the first mega cruiser to sell in USA ( I think )
>>1996 Toyota Mega Cruiser - Rare Civilian Model, Left-Hand Drive, U.S. Title, Reviewed by Doug DeMuro - https://carsandbids.com/auctions/9X7kkaGz/1996-toyota-mega-cruiser
I had the opportunity to drive that Mega Cruiser, last year. Very cool with it's LH hand drive and all wheel steering. But I must admit, I was shocked at the sales prices of $310,000.
 
I had the opportunity to drive that Mega Cruiser, last year. Very cool with it's LH hand drive and all wheel steering. But I must admit, I was shocked at the sales prices of $310,000.
Totally , seems to just be more of a unique piece rather than a practical vehicle . Looks like it's built really tough , I wonder if parts are available.
 
Sorry to resurrect this thread, but can anyone confirm the torque specs for the bolts holding the oil filter adapter to the engine block? I see 51 ft lbs for the oil cooler bolt and I've seen 14 ft lbs for all the mounting bolts on ClubLexus but I can't find a diagram for them to confirm. Thanks.
 
Sorry to resurrect this thread, but can anyone confirm the torque specs for the bolts holding the oil filter adapter to the engine block? I see 51 ft lbs for the oil cooler bolt and I've seen 14 ft lbs for all the mounting bolts on ClubLexus but I can't find a diagram for them to confirm. Thanks.
Read from OP of this thread:
12mm-13ft., 14mm-36ft.lbf,
O-ring 51ft-lbf
 

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