Engine cuts out when braking (1 Viewer)

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I’m pretty sure when I’d check temps on the block I’d get numbers like your finding. The cast iron radiates heat different than the metal of the radiator. That what I believe. I could be wrong, folks can correct me. My truck isn’t running so I can’t check it for you.
 
@NeverGiveUpYota I feel you man. I was thinking along the same lines, with the sender being at the top of the head and the exhaust ports right there it would make sense that the Temp would be higher on the surface. I think running it for another week to see if things normalize might be what i do for the time being.

ALthough, while I don't have much history on the rig outside of things I've had to change... ONe thing that was odd was there was a long heater hose coming off the block drain that T'd into the heater inlet hose. This might have been a sign that the previous owner was having overheating issues, but then again I live in Fairbanks Alaska where the temp inverts to about -50 F, so my initial thought was that this was arctic-man ingenuity to get the cab heater working faster. But who knows...
 
Here's an update: Went for a quick run to the store, needle was buried in the white red boundary. Hit it with the laser near temp sender. Realized that the headers were producing crazy heat, so much that i feel like it was offsetting the temp read on the infrared meter. I guess my question is could the headers (brand new manafre) cause the surface around the head to read high temps?
 
Don't measure the temperature there. Its just one spot of several to choose from
 
The resistance values of a brand new Toyota temperature sender at different calibrated temperatures is shown below. While your needle position at a given temperature will undoubtedly be different, the resistance of the sender at a given temperature should not.

If the temp sender wire is pulled and an ohm meter lead is connected to the spade terminal and the other to ground, the resistance (and thus temperature) can be interpolated from the images below.. If your sender is working correctly.

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@Chad717 what sensor to you get to go with the steiger sensor adaptor?

Any of the mechanical water temp guages from your auto parts store will work, I think mine is the cheap equus one. I ran the wire from inside the cab and it just reaches the hole on the adapter. I may have had to buy an adapter for the actual sensor at the end of the wire, but your auto parts store will sell different sizes. I can’t remember if I bought it or it came with a couple different size screw ins.
 
@OSS Very interesting seeing the relationship of sender calibration Ohms/temp to where the needle sits on the gauge . This is kind of way over my head but you are forcing me to dust off the ole thinking cap. I think ill go with the secondary temp gauge (Bosch SP0F000049) to stop myself from developing a temp check tick.
 
low and behold... after a week of driving, the temp has leveled out and the gauge stays at the halfway point, raises some, and goes back down once the thermostat opens. Which is cutting it close, we are in the final days before winter sets in. Coming from the south, I still haven't gotten use to Fairbanks winters and I didn't want to be out working on the rig in negative temp darkness. But that may be might my fate, ordered a refurb starter from CCOT and well looks like I'll be putting in some work in early November.

I really appreciate the responses from everyone, ya'll are cruiser saints. For future, I hope to post cool pics of travels in AK and the Yukon Terr. Hope ya'll be easy.
~Alex
 

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