Engine Block Coolant Drain Screw (1 Viewer)

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FishTown

TLCA Member #29560
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Quick backstory: my thermostat kicked the bucket a couple weeks ago while traveling. I removed it and refilled with bottled water that I had with me to get me home.

Now I’m trying to drain the system and refill with new coolant while installing the new t stat. The drain on the block will not loosen. It’s a 14mm and I’ve started to strip it. Any ideas? PB Blaster? Did I screw up by using bottled water?

And for future reference, anyone have any suggestions for a clean way to drain the rad? I made a freaking mess and was using 3 buckets...
96D3B83B-EE25-44FD-AD73-C1EAF1D26C33.jpeg
 
PB Blaster the s**t out of that thing. Let it sit, and do it again! Whatever you do don't strip it. I can't remember what size it is, mine came off pretty easy after blasting it. Just did this 2 weeks ago.
IMG_7304.jpg
 
The engine block coolant drain fitting below the manifold is a two piece thing. The part that's closest to the block doesn't get touched. It's just the end tip that gets unscrewed. Just make sure you're turning it CCW to loosen. It shouldn't be screwed in very tight. If you rounded off the hex corners and a wrench will no longer grab it, it's vise grips or pipe wrench time. But that would be a last resort.

As for draining the radiator-
Use a large plastic storage tote / container as the catch can for the draining coolant. A 5 gal bucket doesn't work well. Then just loosen the radiator drain screw slightly until coolant drips/trickles out in a controlled way and move the tote under it. I would prop up a piece of something near the trickle to direct the dribble into the tote.

If you just unscrew the rad drain plug all the way it'll make a freaking mess everywhere- as you experienced
 
As for draining the radiator-
Use a large plastic storage tote / container as the catch can for the draining coolant. A 5 gal bucket doesn't work well. Then just loosen the radiator drain screw slightly until coolant drips/trickles out in a controlled way and move the tote under it. I would prop up a piece of something near the trickle to direct the dribble into the tote.

This is how I got it done. Worked a treat. HTH.
 
PB Blaster the s**t out of that thing. Let it sit, and do it again! Whatever you do don't strip it. I can't remember what size it is, mine came off pretty easy after blasting it. Just did this 2 weeks ago.
View attachment 2005816
Will be doing this.

The engine block coolant drain fitting below the manifold is a two piece thing. The part that's closest to the block doesn't get touched. It's just the end tip that gets unscrewed. Just make sure you're turning it CCW to loosen. It shouldn't be screwed in very tight. If you rounded off the hex corners and a wrench will no longer grab it, it's vise grips or pipe wrench time. But that would be a last resort.

As for draining the radiator-
Use a large plastic storage tote / container as the catch can for the draining coolant. A 5 gal bucket doesn't work well. Then just loosen the radiator drain screw slightly until coolant drips/trickles out in a controlled way and move the tote under it. I would prop up a piece of something near the trickle to direct the dribble into the tote.

If you just unscrew the rad drain plug all the way it'll make a freaking mess everywhere- as you experienced

Noted. I think my wrench will still grab it, so I should be good. Do you know of a good replacement for these? I imagine the factory part is NLA.
 
I’ve reached the block drain with a 24” extension from the wheel well. 6 point sockets are my preference :)
 
Repeat - 6 point sockets. If the drain and the body of the fitting are lined up (with regards to the hex), put a deepwell on it and extract the whole thing at once.
 
I've been watching too much 'Deadwood' ...
 

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