Engine block coolant drain question #4528 (1 Viewer)

[Spino]

Okay I’ve been going through the archives on the forum, and I feel relatively sure I’ve found the drain for the engine block to do a coolant drain/flush. But all the photos I’ve seen look a slightly different. So I just wanted to be sure.

This weird square bolt below the header that’s farthest back, driver’s side. This is it right? Photo was taken looking up from beneath the engine.

Patient is an ‘84 FJ60 with 2F engine. Thanks!

 

[lcolon]

That would be your block drain...

 

[ntdb]

+1 looks right to me

 

[Spook50]

See if you can reach it from above or you're gonna get an unwanted shower and it ain't gonna be golden!

 

[mattressking]

Someone replaced the plug with a generic plug so it will be a little messy. Back the plug out but don’t remove, when it’s loose, rotate the head upward and slowly remove so it directs the coolant downward.

Do this AFTER you drain radiator.

 

[Spino]

Thanks all. Found it. Drained the radiator. Then went to drain the block and the damn bolt is stuck. Have hit it with PB Blaster a couple times. It’s just so hard to get in behind the header pipes to loosen it.

I’m kind of stuck. What happens if I just fill the radiator back up and don’t bother draining the block? Honestly, the fluid that came out of the radiator looked pretty clean and there aren’t any leaks.

 

[mattressking]

Thanks all. Found it. Drained the radiator. Then went to drain the block and the damn bolt is stuck. Have hit it with PB Blaster a couple times. It’s just so hard to get in behind the header pipes to loosen it.

I’m kind of stuck. What happens if I just fill the radiator back up and don’t bother draining the block? Honestly, the fluid that came out of the radiator looked pretty clean and there aren’t any leaks.

Draining the block isn't necessary. I usually will cycle a full fill of distilled water to 'flush' before installing fresh coolant in a vehicle I'm not familiar with its cooling system. I'd be careful if you don't have spares for the plug in the block, that plug that is in there is most likely NPT and the block is BSPT so the previous person must have jammed it in good. If you don't have a replacement plug or the factory drain assembly right now, I'd hold out until you have those or not drain at all right now.

 

[ToyotaMatt]

Thanks all. Found it. Drained the radiator. Then went to drain the block and the damn bolt is stuck. Have hit it with PB Blaster a couple times. It’s just so hard to get in behind the header pipes to loosen it.

I’m kind of stuck. What happens if I just fill the radiator back up and don’t bother draining the block? Honestly, the fluid that came out of the radiator looked pretty clean and there aren’t any leaks.

you need to flush your block drain its your lowest point and WILL be filled with sludge ...

you need this

 

[mattressking]

What is the hose with the bolt doing against your exhaust?

 

[ToyotaMatt]

getting burned up ........

real question is whats inside the hose ..........?

 

[ToyotaMatt]

i have never seen a 4 point socket before ?

but a 8-Point seems like the correct SST if you will for the PO bad Bad in the pic above .................


common in the 1900's ................

​

 

[Spino]

getting burned up ........

real question is whats inside the hose ..........?

Yeah I believe it’s a vestigial fuel line. PO installed a Weber carb and desmogged it. Still learning, so I’m not entirely sure what to do with that hose. It is attached to a hard line so maybe I cap it off there? Not sure how best to do that though.

 

[g-man]

It's already "capped off" with a bolt shoved in the end and a hose clamp. Just move it off your exhaust. Maybe zip tie it up somewhere out of the way.

Drain plug...not sure if it's worth the effort to remove unless your are going through radiators or destroying water pumps and think you have a sh*t ton of mud in there. You can still flush your engine with a flush kit cut and spliced into the heater hose or just via radiator. Honestly your not going to get the crud, debris, rust bits out of the coolant passages. Even with this plug out. They settle to the bottom of those passages and will stay there safely because they are heavy and if they could have been moved by water pressure they would have done so long ago.

Whenever you rebuild your motor and have it all apart ...that is the time to pull freeze plugs and drain plug and get the block hot tanked.

 

[Spino]

It's already "capped off" with a bolt shoved in the end and a hose clamp. Just move it off your exhaust. Maybe zip tie it up somewhere out of the way.

Drain plug...not sure if it's worth the effort to remove unless your are going through radiators or destroying water pumps and think you have a sh*t ton of mud in there. You can still flush your engine with a flush kit cut and spliced into the heater hose or just via radiator. Honestly your not going to get the crud, debris, rust bits out of the coolant passages. Even with this plug out. They settle to the bottom of those passages and will stay there safely because they are heavy and if they could have been moved by water pressure they would have done so long ago.

Whenever you rebuild your motor and have it all apart ...that is the time to pull freeze plugs and drain plug and get the block hot tanked.

Thanks! I hate not doing something the “right” way but I appreciate the reassurance that this will be alright.

 

[ToyotaMatt]

Thanks! I hate not doing something the “right” way but I appreciate the reassurance that this will be alright.

can u post some better top view photos since its a safety issue ?

@g-man knows 60's well and can help let you know if it's 100% safe or not too

i will help out too in any way i can , his idea of a zip tie is a solid first thought for sure .......

here on mud we have each others Back 24/7 ...........

 

[Spino]

can u post some better top view photos since its a safety issue ?

@g-man knows 60's well and can help let you know if it's 100% safe or not too

i will help out too in any way i can , his idea of a zip tie is a solid first thought for sure .......

here on mud we have each others Back 24/7 ...........

Thanks!! I’ve been really impressed by how welcoming the community is here after just a couple months. Here are the pix. I feel pretty good about where I’ve secured the hose and near as I can tell it isn’t going to move around.

 

[ToyotaMatt]

Thanks!! I’ve been really impressed by how welcoming the community is here after just a couple months. Here are the pix. I feel pretty good about where I’ve secured the hose and near as I can tell it isn’t going to move around. View attachment 2437283

View attachment 2437279

the small vacuum hose with the orange piece of tape on it should be away from the headers too , or it will get burned off .....

also , put the clamp back on its original location , see the old GHOST marks / imprints on the hose end , this way it will make a good seal on the bolt , not it just replying on a snug fit only ...........

 

[g-man]

It does appear as if that hose is connected to the original metal fuel line that attached to the stock carb. The problem here would be pressurized fuel which could come apart and leak while driving causing really bad stuff to happen. I'd consider plugging the fuel lines where they connect to the fuel pump on the other side of the engine ..it resides forward of the oil filter. Blocking fuel so it can't get to the stock fuel pump. Also you may want to research what others (search Holley Sniper EFI) have done with their stock fuel pump, after converting to an electric fuel pump. Not sure it they make a block off plate here.
I'd guess you have an aftermarket electric fuel pump mounted on the passenger side frame, connected to that aftermarket metal line that feeds your carb.

 

[Spino]

It does appear as if that hose is connected to the original metal fuel line that attached to the stock carb. The problem here would be pressurized fuel which could come apart and leak while driving causing really bad stuff to happen. I'd consider plugging the fuel lines where they connect to the fuel pump on the other side of the engine ..it resides forward of the oil filter. Blocking fuel so it can't get to the stock fuel pump. Also you may want to research what others (search Holley Sniper EFI) have done with their stock fuel pump, after converting to an electric fuel pump. Not sure it they make a block off plate here.
I'd guess you have an aftermarket electric fuel pump mounted on the passenger side frame, connected to that aftermarket metal line that feeds your carb.

I had a look and it goes to a hardline that follows the frame all the way to the back above the fuel tank so perhaps it’s the original fuel pump? Either way, point taken.

Also made those small fixes per @ToyotaMatt. Good eye!

 

[g-man]

The original fuel pump is mounted in front of the oil filter down low on the passenger side lower section of the motor.

Your aftermarket carb is fed by a non original electric fuel pump mounted inside the tank or on the frame.

Post up a few pics of passenger side of your motor. Maybe we can see if the original fuel pump is disabled.