Engine Balancing? (1 Viewer)

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I've heard that a person can do a reasonable job of basic balancing on their rods/pistons themselves. I have an electronic scale that measures down to 1 gram. Can anyone give a brief tutorial on how to do this correctly?

My guess is: You assemble the pistons/rods/rings/bearings/caps after they come out of the hot tank clean. Then you weigh each assembly and find the lightest one. You then lightly grind material off each assembly until they weigh the same? If thats correct, where do you grind the material off? From the rod cap itself? Are there any other components the average person can sort of balance themselves without too much risk of screwing something up too bad?
 
first of all if you dont know dont try. but you weigh the pistons first then make them weigh the same. you take of on the inside underneigh but you cant take off on one side then they wont weigh the same on each side you need to take the same amount of off each side. then the rods you take off the same again on each side to much on one side not good.and so on its probaly not that expensive to have someone do it. think of a cup of dirt and you want to make it weigh the same as another one. ok you take dirt out of the side but that makes the other side weigh more so you need to take the same out of each side
 
Would like to learn more myself.

As I understand it, you balance all the pistons (with wrist pins), then do do each end of the connecting rods (with bearings I suppose) separately so that the rotating mass (more influence from big end) and reciprocating mass (rod and piston) are both in balance through each cylinder. You balance each end of the rod by hanging the opposite end even with the height of the scale platform, and resting the end in question on the scale.

The crank (and harmonic balancer?) are balanced by a pro with the right equipment.
 
AUTOS & BOATS : Replica & Kit Cars : Engine Balancing, Pt. 1 : DIY Network

This is what my rods looked like after balancing. I never took a pic of the piston or the other end of the rod but they were also drilled and ground down slightly.

IMG_1613.JPG
 
Not to seem rude, but I've been there...I was looking for some insight from someone here who might have done this themselves.
 
Not to seem rude, but I've been there...I was looking for some insight from someone here who might have done this themselves.




Not to be rude, but balancing an engine would be changing it from original and that seems to go against everything you believe....



:lol:
 
Not to be rude, but balancing an engine would be changing it from original and that seems to go against everything you believe....



:lol:


Dude, I am interested in seeing/learning what others might have done. I am not about to debate if "balancing" a stock F135 would be detrimental to a true restoration, nor did I say I had planned to do this to my '64...you can never know too much, and this might be something I would like to apply to another project...relax.
 
I've been told by the guy who did the machine work on the 3B in the FJ55 that it is a waste of time and energy to balance an engine like the "F/2F" or "B/3B" or any other 'Cruiser engine since they turn so slowly anyways as compared to a high performance race engine.
 
From the Best 2F thread:

If the engine is gonna be spun, it should be balanced to zero. Early 2F and all F engines are often out by several OUNCES. No, not grams. Rods are out by 20 grams or more, cranks off by 50, flywheels off by 30. The only thing that keeps a 1971 F engine together at speed is sheer stubbornness. The 81-newer engines were destined for cushy FJ60 wagons, so they finally started paying attention to balancing. They are usually only out by an ounce.

HTH
 
My conrods looked the same as Trollhole's after balancing
I also had the cam followers, flywheel, clutch, pressure plate (the pressure plate had a balance weight welded on), crank pulley and crank balanced/
 

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