Did you buy chance mount your tires before the lift? Any rubbing?
Builds empty80's “Nearly” Complete Build (2 Viewers)
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- #42
I’m not sure about factory specs and rubbing. My lift and tires all went on at the same time. My best guess would be rubbing on the 285/70r18 that I’m currently running. If you have factory offset, there will be a lot of rubbing on the KDSS arm.
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- #43
So, this happened.
forum.ih8mud.com
In the process, I preemptively replaced the charcoal canister. The old one didn’t feel healthy and when I removed it, qualitatively, it weighed a bit more than the new one. No more fumes from the truck, codes are gone, and hopefully I will not have to drop the auxiliary tank again for some time.
In other news, I’ve decided to replace the 600# coil springs with 700# springs. This should be a fun job assuming I don’t send a coil and digit into low earth orbit...
RTH- P1613, P1614, P0031, P0037, P0051, P0057, P0102 SOLVED
All, I have no clue what happened. I drove 120 miles to work this morning, and parked. A couple of hours later when departing, truck went into limp mode. I conducted a fuel transfer in route. I have opened and retightened the fuel cap. I cleared the codes, and they returned. I disconnected...
forum.ih8mud.com
In the process, I preemptively replaced the charcoal canister. The old one didn’t feel healthy and when I removed it, qualitatively, it weighed a bit more than the new one. No more fumes from the truck, codes are gone, and hopefully I will not have to drop the auxiliary tank again for some time.
In other news, I’ve decided to replace the 600# coil springs with 700# springs. This should be a fun job assuming I don’t send a coil and digit into low earth orbit...
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- #44
In other, other news, the I’ve grown exhausted with my King set-up. Almost two years on, and I’m still not satisfied. This is just as much my fault as any other entity because I’ve built incrementally. Also, I suspect an issue with the passenger coil-over because it still feels much softer than the rest of the truck. Only time will tell here.
At this point, I have committed some funds to a more flexible set-up for a little while. I’ve ordered a BP-51 set-up from Cruiser Outfitters, and it arrives on Friday. The ripping and tearing begins tomorrow!
For the would-be builders of tomorrow, this should not be considered a knock on King as they are exceptional shocks. There is contrast in the “best” and “builder’s preference.” I’m just lucky (demented) enough to experiment a bit to find my sweet spot.
At this point, I have committed some funds to a more flexible set-up for a little while. I’ve ordered a BP-51 set-up from Cruiser Outfitters, and it arrives on Friday. The ripping and tearing begins tomorrow!
For the would-be builders of tomorrow, this should not be considered a knock on King as they are exceptional shocks. There is contrast in the “best” and “builder’s preference.” I’m just lucky (demented) enough to experiment a bit to find my sweet spot.
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- Thread starter
- #45
The BP-51s are on! The install was very straight-forward. I left the coil preload at 20mm because I couldn't get the pinch band to budge, even using my spring compressor. The front of the truck did come up a little. I couldn't tell by looking at the truck, but I could tell once I got my butt in the seat. I would like to bring the overall height of the truck down, but that is just me nitpicking. I did make a few observations between the two systems while handling, and those are below. I do apologize for not getting a photo of the rear shocks side-by-side.
I've only taken a lap around the block, so I'm not really in a position to comment on how they compare on the road. My initial impression made me believe the change was justified, but that could be self-fulfilling prophecy.
OME Pros:
Rubber bushings on the rear shock mount!
Hose mounts fitting on the shock top-caps.
Tapered coils. No rubbing on bump-stops.
Rear shock mounting washers.
Hose design.
OME Cons:
Reservoir mounts. My goodness, what pain...
Rear shock mounting washers. Both rear shocks came with the known issue of two of lipped washers for seating. I had a spare set of flat washers from the temporary Nitrochargers. Also note there that the Nitrocharger rubber bushings ARE larger than the BP-51s.
King Pros:
Reservoir Mounts!
Linear spring rate if only for the ease of compressing.
King Cons:
Hose design. There's a lot of hose here because of rigid fittings.
Rear shocks would benefit from a lipped washer to center the shock.
Coil seats could be better designed to not interfere with bump-stops.
I've only taken a lap around the block, so I'm not really in a position to comment on how they compare on the road. My initial impression made me believe the change was justified, but that could be self-fulfilling prophecy.
OME Pros:
Rubber bushings on the rear shock mount!
Hose mounts fitting on the shock top-caps.
Tapered coils. No rubbing on bump-stops.
Rear shock mounting washers.
Hose design.
OME Cons:
Reservoir mounts. My goodness, what pain...
Rear shock mounting washers. Both rear shocks came with the known issue of two of lipped washers for seating. I had a spare set of flat washers from the temporary Nitrochargers. Also note there that the Nitrocharger rubber bushings ARE larger than the BP-51s.
King Pros:
Reservoir Mounts!
Linear spring rate if only for the ease of compressing.
King Cons:
Hose design. There's a lot of hose here because of rigid fittings.
Rear shocks would benefit from a lipped washer to center the shock.
Coil seats could be better designed to not interfere with bump-stops.
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CharlieS
GOLD Star
Did your shop grind the front bump stop down for clearance as directed in the King instructions?
Full disclosure, I absolutely love my King 2.5s. They've been terrific on both vehicles that I've had them on.
Mine also came with lipped bushings to center the rear shock in the upper mount. Maybe a running update they made?
Full disclosure, I absolutely love my King 2.5s. They've been terrific on both vehicles that I've had them on.
Mine also came with lipped bushings to center the rear shock in the upper mount. Maybe a running update they made?
- Thread starter
- #48
I didn’t lay a tape measure to it, but the King’s were about 1-1.5” longer. The rear shock side-by-side was nearly the same. I have no idea how that picture didn’t save.
I was actually quite surprised at how noticeable the reduction in NVH was. I still haven’t really had much opportunity to drive it yet, so my initial impression could be self-fulfilling prophecy. No one wants to spend a ton of money on parts only to find out they aren’t satisfied with the outcome.
- Thread starter
- #49
Verdict is in! The wife has admitted that she thought my dissatisfaction with the suspension was in my head, and I was making change for change’s sake. Her words, not mine, “This is way better.”
It did not fix the weird imbalance in response, so my next steps are to R&R the rear sway bar bucking a to see if that yields any noticeable change. If that does nothing, I will just accept that is what makes my snowflake special.
It did not fix the weird imbalance in response, so my next steps are to R&R the rear sway bar bucking a to see if that yields any noticeable change. If that does nothing, I will just accept that is what makes my snowflake special.
- Thread starter
- #50
I’m not the best at keeping up with the build, and I’m absolutely the worst at taking photos of the work. Since the last update, I replaced the rear sway bar bushings. I found what appeared to be anti-seize rubbed on the inside of the bushing, but still not the source of my passenger side “problem.” The good news: I’ve got the BP-51 one compression setting higher on the passenger side of the truck, and that seems to have tuned it out. I couldn’t seem to accomplish the same thing with the Kings.
I had a boot clamp on the driver’s side CV fail which was interesting. Not sure why or how, but it has been re-clamped.
I’ve also added a RockPals 100W folding solar panel to my list of tricks! I replaced the National Luna dual charging solenoid with a Redarc BCDC1250. While removing the NL remote from the cockpit, I found the source of a rattle in the center console. One of the push clips had backed out and was sitting between and outer panel and metallic brace. I most likely didn’t get it properly seating after running the remote cable.
I’d say it has been a successful quarter of tinkering! If I get a slot for LCDC, I plan on bringing some of the take-offs for tailgate transactions!
Next up, send it!
I had a boot clamp on the driver’s side CV fail which was interesting. Not sure why or how, but it has been re-clamped.
I’ve also added a RockPals 100W folding solar panel to my list of tricks! I replaced the National Luna dual charging solenoid with a Redarc BCDC1250. While removing the NL remote from the cockpit, I found the source of a rattle in the center console. One of the push clips had backed out and was sitting between and outer panel and metallic brace. I most likely didn’t get it properly seating after running the remote cable.
I’d say it has been a successful quarter of tinkering! If I get a slot for LCDC, I plan on bringing some of the take-offs for tailgate transactions!
Next up, send it!
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Nice work and keep it coming!
- Thread starter
- #56
I’ve had a few questions about the gear and locker setup. I put it all in Post #1, but I’ll add it here because tl;dr.
I went with the OEM 3.9 assemblies from the 2008-2015 model years, and added an Eaton rear locker. I purchased from Cruiser Outfitters! It’s well known, Kurt and his crew are top notch! @cruiseroutfit
I did the install on my garage floor with the assistance a couple of the High Desert Cruisers members. Started at 9am and the bulk of the work was done by 2:30pm, and an extra 4 hours of detail work (inspecting, torquing and cleaning).
I went with the OEM 3.9 assemblies from the 2008-2015 model years, and added an Eaton rear locker. I purchased from Cruiser Outfitters! It’s well known, Kurt and his crew are top notch! @cruiseroutfit
I did the install on my garage floor with the assistance a couple of the High Desert Cruisers members. Started at 9am and the bulk of the work was done by 2:30pm, and an extra 4 hours of detail work (inspecting, torquing and cleaning).
- Thread starter
- #57
This weekend, I got the 500-mile gear oil change completed.
I also swapped my Methods out for the tried and true Rock Warriors. I thought long and hard about the tire size, and settled on LT285/70R17 Toyo AT3 for a few reasons:
1) I’ll be mounting the Rhino bumper in the immediate future, and I’ll not be making any adjustments to the front ride height after it settles. I don’t want to bother with spacers, rubbing, etc. I’ll be coming down to the OME 2723 springs in the rear to level it out again.
2) My skid plates say I don’t wheel hard enough to justify the compromises necessary for an extra 0.5” of ground clearance.
3) At this point in time, I don’t wheel often enough to compromise on road comfort. Once grad school is over and work/life balance improves, it may be a different story.
Photo was taken in the garage to conceal how dirty it truly is.
I also swapped my Methods out for the tried and true Rock Warriors. I thought long and hard about the tire size, and settled on LT285/70R17 Toyo AT3 for a few reasons:
1) I’ll be mounting the Rhino bumper in the immediate future, and I’ll not be making any adjustments to the front ride height after it settles. I don’t want to bother with spacers, rubbing, etc. I’ll be coming down to the OME 2723 springs in the rear to level it out again.
2) My skid plates say I don’t wheel hard enough to justify the compromises necessary for an extra 0.5” of ground clearance.
3) At this point in time, I don’t wheel often enough to compromise on road comfort. Once grad school is over and work/life balance improves, it may be a different story.
Photo was taken in the garage to conceal how dirty it truly is.
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- Thread starter
- #58
Well, I’ll start by saying today’s update started with some test fitting, and quickly got out of hand.
I had a very minor, self-inflicted issue with my ARB compressor on the Slee mount. From time to time, I’ll use it, put the Wit’s End pacifier in it, and forget to rotate the manifold aft, and close the hood on it.
Instead of paying attention to what I’m doing, I a solution!
Once the Rhino 4X4 bumper is mounted, I’m going to use the Wit’s End bulkhead fittings for the front and rear bumpers. I don’t have a step bit on hand at the moment to finish the rear.
I had a very minor, self-inflicted issue with my ARB compressor on the Slee mount. From time to time, I’ll use it, put the Wit’s End pacifier in it, and forget to rotate the manifold aft, and close the hood on it.
Instead of paying attention to what I’m doing, I a solution!
Once the Rhino 4X4 bumper is mounted, I’m going to use the Wit’s End bulkhead fittings for the front and rear bumpers. I don’t have a step bit on hand at the moment to finish the rear.
