emissions (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Mar 8, 2004
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please someone help. Maryland emissions have pissed me off. Rebuilt the carb recently found that the pcv line was clogged and now clean, adjusted idle mixture and speed and still am running too rich have good timing and colder plugs. Seems to not get enough air even with air filter out and pcv out. Help me get it to pass so i can get my 4 inch lift and beat up on my brothers 83 toy pu. So ask me if you need more info i have plenty love the truck and only had it a year
 
How do you know it is rich?
What are the CO and HC numbers at idle and cruise speed?
Who rebuilt the carb? The carb is the main suspect, so are you sure they did a good job?
 
Air pump working? These are sensitive and the graphite vanes can shred - clogging the lines. No enough air to the CC and you will fail. I had some work to do before my 60 was clean enough for the Govenator's seal of approval - but it can be done.

Mike S
 
I always thought running a hotter plug vs a colder plug helped with a rich running/overfueling problem. I could be wrong, wouldnt bethe first time!

Mike
 
Two words: white gas. Might be worth a try if your truck otherwise runs well. :-X
 
how much white gas should you put in for a tank? I'm thinking about giving that a try - I'm having the same problem in TX - and I've done just about everything to try to get mine to pass.

Check with the inspection station though, there may be an exemption like we have in TX - if the truck goes less than 5k per year (and you can prove it - say, using the emit test info from your last inspection) and you spend $100 to try and fix it, and it still fails, they'll exempt you and you can pass.

Also, I don't know what year your truck is, but in TX, if it's 25 years or older, you don't have to pass it either.

If you're hell bent on fixing it, get the emissions book from Jay Marks Toyota in Houston (http://jaymarkstoyota.com/) - they offer a 30% discount on all orders on line. my book was only $18 + shipping & tax.

Good luck. I'm right there with you.
 
I don't know if you are necessarily running too rich. My exhaust smells pretty rich and I just passed the TX inspection yesterday with flying colors. The results were far far far below the standard. I was surprised, but I'll take what I get.

Just a little trick: With a little over half tank of gas, add 12oz of B-12 Chemtool to the fuel (make sure not to go too far over the recommended oz per gal as this will cause damage to your gas lines and other parts). Make sure the engine is at a high operating temperature, i.e. drive down the interstate at 70 mph for a while. Cruise around town just for kicks and then go get your inspection before the engine has a chance to cool down. At higher temperatures, the catalytic converter operates optimally, and the exhaust gases will burn more so than with a cold engine. The B-12 is a clean burning substitute that will help burn off more exhaust gasses. Good Luck.
 
well the numbers are way high dont have papers in front of me though dad took them to a mechanic buddy to figure them out but it doesnt seem to smell rich at idle. I rebuilt the carb using the manual and my dad an old mechanic that did carbs, and accelerator pump was gone secondary diaphragm was gone and float level all out a whack. Now the truck makes a ticking sound at idle and goes awaay at speed (or i cant hear it) wondering is it the egr tube thought i read that somewhere and now i cant find it. After alll the pcv line was clogged too. And what is this magic white gas?? thanks all i just want to get out there and go wheeling again
 
well now looky here... I found my smog pump discharge hose disconnected probably due to a body lift oversight, hooked it all up and the thing has gobs of power now the only problem is no vacuum for the brakes and it idles like crap. Is the carp needing adjusting again or is something else broke?? please help i can almost see the light at the end of the tunnel
 
The "gobs more power" is probably due to the new secondary diaphram. When you say "no vacuum for the brakes" do you mean there is practically no manifold vacuum? Check the timing and set the idle mixture to try to smooth out the idle. If that doesn't help, look for a vac leak. The carb base would be a good place to start. Flammable spray carb cleaner can usually pinpoint a leak.
 
no leaks that i can see and timing and mixture are fine its weird i drive it it runs great for a while and then out of nowhere it idles rough like too much Oxygen and the brake booster fades. could the brake booster have anything to do with it??? its just weird cause it will happen and then go away. But i thought it was weird that it happened right after i rehooked the smog pump up which does work
 
Try disconnecting and plugging the vac hose for the booster. It could be a bad booster. Do you have a vacuum gauge? A gauge might indicate a steady leak or an intermittant one. Some of the emissions vac circuits are closed until the engine warms up. A leak in one of those circuits might show up after driving a while. What kind of Cruiser is this? On 2Fs most of the emissions hardware vacuum comes from a fitting in the intake manifold that is right in front of the carb. It has three hose nipples on it. You might try capping off all three to see if the manifold vac/idle improves.
 
1987 FJ60 2F I have no idea what is going on but it is really intermittent. I drove it to go to emissions tonight and stopped to get gas and it started acting all cray with the idle and no brakes. so i went home and sure enough i couldnt get it to act up again. So i guess ill try to go down tommorrow and see what happens. truck defiinitely has a smoother idle and better exhaust smell almost has a detergent like smell to it. Well thanks for hte help and hopefully ill be on the trails again soon.
 
well everyone thanks for your help but after a carb rebuild new exhaust pcv line unclogging and rehooking up my air pump the truck passed and runs great now onto the suspension thanks again
 

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