Emissions Woes...I need help!!!

Discussion in '60-Series Wagons' started by Bostonfj60, Nov 9, 2005.

  1. Bostonfj60

    Bostonfj60

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    Here is the run down. I live in Mass (hellish emissions laws) and can't get my 86 FJ60 to pass emissons.

    I've inspected the rig 4 times now, and still can't get the CO levels low enough to pass.

    Here's what I've done.

    Installed new Catalytic converter
    Installed Man-a-fre Header to replace cracked manifold (this requires the removal of the EGR cooler/EGR Plenum...possible prolem area???)
    Changed Spark plugs
    Went through ALL vacuum lines, and replaced any in question
    Changed the oil
    Cleaned the Carb
    Cleaned the air filter


    I've also adjusted the carb, and brought it in running rich and running lean. When I lean the carb out, the CO levels come down, but not enough. At this point, I'm at a loss. If anyone has any suggestion on how to reduce my CO output, that would be awsome!

    Some mentioned I should contact Jim C?/?? sooo...you out there Jim C???? Any suggestions? I'm the guy with the green FJ60 you met at the Fall Gathering in NH a month back!!!

    Cheers,

    JON
     
  2. xrock

    xrock

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    How much over are you?
     
  3. MDH33

    MDH33

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    Have you tried the trick of running your fuel down to about 1/16 of a tank and then adding several bottles of fuel additive/dry gas (I think HEET is the brand of choice) right before you pull in for the test?. This supposedly will allow even the dirtiest engine to pass. Apparently the high alcohol content allows the engine to (temporarily) burn cleaner. Try it at your own risk, I've never heard of an engine burning up from it, but it's said to work.
     
  4. yetiman

    yetiman

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    alright I am no expert but I just went through this about a month or so ago. First off is it a dyno test? if so here is what I did to pass mine that was failing horribly here in texas. first off I did oil change , new plugs, wires, cap, rotor. the gas tank thing with a 1/4 of a tank in it. then I backed the timing off (ran horrible) runs real hot though, which helps with the ceramic headers. and it still was not quite passing. Now the guy running my test said it is hard for alot of older cars to pass the test, so you either end up completely replacing most of the major pieces, or learning how to trick the test. He said one way to trick the test was to basically introduce as much fresh air into the system as possible. Well the fj60's brake booster has a vaccume line that goes to the manifold so I asked him what he thought, if I yanked the line off the booster, and that sucker passed, both of us looked at each other and were like cool. I am uncertain if that was the actual reason it passed or it was something else, but it passed. I have heard of guys running the air pump directly to the exhaust by drilling and taping a port in front of the cat. that they hook up for emissions tests only. like I said I am no expert but it worked.

    good luck
     
  5. Bostonfj60

    Bostonfj60

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    My CO is around 4.00 and the max for Mass is 2.00

    This is at 2500rpms (no dyno, just stationary)

    At idle the CO is very low, and HC's hardly register.


    I'
    I
     
  6. yetiman

    yetiman

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    man thats tuff! do they even offer anything other than the idle test? one of the stations here in town thinks the 60 is fulltime 4x4 and would not do a dyno. I just called around and found a station that would. The idle test is harder to pass also from what I understand. which header do you have?
     
  7. Bostonfj60

    Bostonfj60

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    They won't put my truck on the dyno with 35's and tons of lift.

    I have the Man-a-fre header 6-1.

    I"m surprised that the idle test is harder to pass than the dyno test? Wouldn't the engine put out more CO under load?

    JR





     
  8. yetiman

    yetiman

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    I was told that, by the tech, that it would put out less and burn hotter under load. Hey try to find another cruiser head in the area that would let you throw on his stock wheels and run the dyno test. I have the ceramic coated headers from them. if I get a chance today I will do some checking with them and see why it makes such a difference over the idle test. Do you have the fsm emissions book?
     
  9. FJ40Jim

    FJ40Jim The Cruiser Whisperer SILVER Star

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    Couple of thoughts:
    Make sure you have an OEM PCV valve. The tin ones from the FLAPS are worth what you pay. Get the billet steel one from Toyota if it is missing.

    Get the Emission FSM, or at least the vacuum diagrams from it.
    To temporarily lean out the mix, pull the hose off the primary main circuit HAC fitting. At sea level this will drive the main circuit ~5% in the lean direction. See page 3-31 of FSM.

    Also, make sure the AI system is full on into the exhaust pipe at 2500RPM. If there is a defect in the very complex AI plumbing, it could bypas to the air cleaner. Since they are measuring CO as a percent at the tailpipe, blasting more fresh air into the exhaust system will dilute the CO%.
     
  10. Bostonfj60

    Bostonfj60

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    cool Jim, thanks for the suggestions.

    Another thought...The sensor that fits into the stock Catlytic converter is not attached to anything right now. From what I understand, that sensor (with the 3 inch probe) tells the air system to pump more/less air into the mix. With it not installed in the cat, it's probably telling the system it has plenty of fresh air???

    Does anyone know if there is a way to "trick" this sensor into opening the Air pump up all the way? I'm not sure how i'd retrofit this sensor into my aftermarket cat??

    Cheers,

    Jon
     
  11. 60wag

    60wag SILVER Star

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    The sensor just shuts down the AI system when the cat is too hot. It protects the cat from overheating. Having it hanging loose won't cause an emissions failure. Make sure the air pump is actually pumping some air. Make sure the ABV (air switching valves) downstream of the air pump are are actually directing the pump output into the exhaust stream. If they are not working, rearranging some hoses to force air into the exhaust should help - as Jim mentioned.
     
  12. karlec

    karlec

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    Make sure your cat is real hot before the guy starts the test. Run it at 2500 rpm for a few minutes then let it idle and start the test. Make sure all the jets and air bleeds in the carb are not clogged. Make sure the two rubber donut things at the top of the main metering jets are there and not cracked, etc (right when you take off the top of the carb you should see them). Make sure the float level is right. It helps a bit to adjust it lower than spec. It helps to clean the bottom of the carb throat with carb cleaner to get the varnish off. A few years back I had to pein the primary main jet to reduce the size of the hole a little to get it to pass.

    If the guy will put his machine in manual mode and let you see the numbers while you work on it, try squeezing vacuum lines to see if anything makes a difference.

    Good luck. It can be a real pain.

    Karl
     
  13. sl33py

    sl33py

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    what about doing a seafoam treatment? doesn't that break free a bunch of carbon buildup? If done ahead of time so it doesn't raise #s - would it lower them any? just thinking out loud. anyone?...

    rob
     
  14. BigSur

    BigSur

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    Seafoam helps tons....put a full tank in your truck and add a full can of seafoam to it. Run that tank and another full tank and on your third you should be good to go. As a test what i did was i went and got my truck inspected and like you my CO was a lil' too high. I put in a full tank and a can of seafoam (the only change i made) and went back after about 1/4 of tank full and got tested again and my CO almost doubled due to seafoam breaking up all the built up CO in the system. After a few tanks of gas she was good to go. passed.
     
  15. sl33py

    sl33py

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    i was also thinking of doing the vac line or carb throat portion. Lots 'o white smoke! woo hoo! I know mine always runs a bit better / more responsive after. Just not sure about the CO levels after. I'd only worry that it would raise CO right after... I'd make sure to stall it out and let it soak in and break all the gunk up. Then run it for a whiile, nice n hot. good luck!

    rob
     
  16. 60wag

    60wag SILVER Star

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    Seafoam directly into the manifold can foul the plugs rapidly. Either plan on cleaning or replacing the plugs before trying an emissions test.
     
  17. sl33py

    sl33py

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    i forgot to point that out. I usually do it right before a tune up or at least swap plugs...

    thnx wag.

    rob
     
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