Emissions question (1 Viewer)

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Salt Lake City, Utah
Hi, I am looking at a 1981 FJ40 to potentially buy but am turned off by all the emissions under the hood. From what model year did the US spec vehicles start having such a complicated mess of hoses. What model year should I look at if I want a very simple set up under the hood. Thanks in advance for your thoughts
 
anyone know, is it linear ie each year the emissions controls got more and more complicated on fj40's? or a big leap from on year to another? the clear act amendment was 1970 so I guess maybe 1970 model year and later things got more complicated under the hood
anyone have an opinion what model year is the best in terms of a more "modern" fj40 but still old enough to have little or no emissions under the hood? I have a feeling it is easier to convert a front axle to disc brakes than to get all the smog equipment working properly...
 
1975 was the first year of the 2F and I believe had some minimal emissions equipment. 1976 had more, and by 1979 there were vacuum control valves and hoses everywhere, like an FJ60.

If you live in a county where smog isn’t required, you can go through the process of desmogging it and your engine compartment is very simple. However, it will affect resale a little, so hang onto the old parts.
 
So in 1997-98 we were trying to get the TBI fuel injection system smog legal. We were using 1985-87 FJ60's for the Federal testing because they would be worst case vehicles (hardest to pass the Federal testing), so if they passed, then the CARB would include all older Landcruisers on the Executive Order. Problem was the 12 to 13 year old pieces of original smog device we had to keep on the test vehicles were already shot, rusty water pouring out of some of the pieces, one piece we couldn't find new or used, so epoxied the original piece back together just to pass the visual !!!!! We even did one Federal test without using any of the original smog equipment (just the stand alone TBI) and actually got cleaner readings. We never could pass the cold start test, didn't get the E.O. exemption, and what pissed me off about this (alone with the thousands of $$$ spent testing) was; because the engine was no cleaner during the first couple miles you drive every morning (until the TBI goes into closed loop) we couldn't legally have a much cleaner running engine during the rest of the miles driven that day with a warm TBI engine.

So what's the point of all this, my point is; guys trying to have an $80-100,000 Barret Jackson perfectly restored Landcruiser probably don't have one at all.
 
The US spec emissions packages was an ever-increasing array of switches and vacuum hoses throughout the 70's. Each year had a little more. 1/79 was a pretty big jump where the systems became very similar to the FJ60 emissions packages of the 80s. To answer the OP's questions, should you be afraid of the emissions on an 81 US spec? I wouldn't be afraid. The factory emissions manual is not that hard to understand. It is, however, a required part of your technical library. If you suspect any of the systems are no longer functional (many of them aren't), there is lots of good documentation here on 'mud on how to properly desmog. Look up the desmog threads in the 60 section, and follow the advice of the guru, @FJ40Jim. It takes a methodical approach. The big three systems which are unreliable are AI, EGR, and HAC. However, many folks seem to have kept the HAC functional with good results. You will also find that about half of the post 1/79 emissions just effect the choke operation. If you are looking at a solid, clean, 1981 FJ40, consider yourself lucky and jump on it.
 
Go to SOR as they have vacuum piping diagrams so you can see all the years. My 1969 has very little.


 
thanks a lot to everyone, i appreciate the great feedback
wondering, for example a smog pump, when that wears out, can they be replaced? I assume a lot of these parts are no longer available?
 
Are you required to have the AI system in place? If you are in a smog test area, is it a sniff test only or is there a visual inspection required? There's multiple solutions there, depending on those answers. The AI is a relatively simple system to delete and plug. If you have power steering you may need to keep the air pump belt for tension. You can always gut the pump and use it as a belt tensioner, if the bearing is still good. Or install an idler pulley (Jim C makes a nice one). The ASV is vacuum actuated, so you can disable the entire AI system by plugging the vacuum lines with a bb and the entire system will remain in place but not function.
 
Are you required to have the AI system in place? If you are in a smog test area, is it a sniff test only or is there a visual inspection required? There's multiple solutions there, depending on those answers. The AI is a relatively simple system to delete and plug. If you have power steering you may need to keep the air pump belt for tension. You can always gut the pump and use it as a belt tensioner, if the bearing is still good. Or install an idler pulley (Jim C makes a nice one). The ASV is vacuum actuated, so you can disable the entire AI system by plugging the vacuum lines with a bb and the entire system will remain in place but not function.
Thank you, I appreciate the information. Bryan
 
Are you required to have the AI system in place? If you are in a smog test area, is it a sniff test only or is there a visual inspection required? There's multiple solutions there, depending on those answers. The AI is a relatively simple system to delete and plug. If you have power steering you may need to keep the air pump belt for tension. You can always gut the pump and use it as a belt tensioner, if the bearing is still good. Or install an idler pulley (Jim C makes a nice one). The ASV is vacuum actuated, so you can disable the entire AI system by plugging the vacuum lines with a bb and the entire system will remain in place but not function.
Hi, apologies, I just realized I didn't answer your questions. My understanding is in Utah there is no visual requirement, just a sniff test. I called the Utah DMV and to qualify for vintage plates ie no emissions required at all your vehicle has to be used only for parades, auto shows, etc. No mileage cap per year in theory vs for example Nevada for similar plates there is a 5,000 mile per year cap. Sounds like Utah it is a bit of a grey area given no specific mileage cap but use limited to special events. Not sure how rigorous they are regarding enforcement.
Thanks again to everyone for the answers. This is a great community.
Bryan
 
BY the way, is your avatar Matsumoto castle? We used to live not too far from there. Cool place. I liked the Odowara castle for its vast array of samurai and ninja weaponry. Best display I’ve seen in all of Japan.
 
BY the way, is your avatar Matsumoto castle? We used to live not too far from there. Cool place. I liked the Odowara castle for its vast array of samurai and ninja weaponry. Best display I’ve seen in all of Japan.
oh wow, you got it, that is matsumoto castle! I went there a couple years ago and it is my favorite of all the castles I have seen in Japan thus far. I have heard Odowara is great also but I haven't had a chance to go there yet.

We just spent the last two months living in an AirBNB in Kyoto. It was a lot of fun. Back in Tokyo now working from home.
When did you live in Japan? Small world!
 
Go to SOR as they have vacuum piping diagrams so you can see all the years. My 1969 has very little.
Does anyone know why SOR skips the 10/72 - 12/74 period?

 
Ha, I’ve wondered the same thing since my first FJ40 was a 9/74. I guess they want you to buy a reprint FSM emission manual. ;)
 
That’s as good an answer as we have so far! Mine is a 7/74. I have the engine and chassis FSMs so I may have to go for the hat trick.
 
Does anyone know why SOR skips the 10/72 - 12/74 period?


Never noticed it because I never had those years. I assumed SOR being reliant on sales , would have it. Maybe they do want to sell a manual first ?
 
73 to 74 is in the Haynes Manual.

Back to the OP's question. I have a Federal '75, and I have to deal with a vac leak on the choke breaker, and a vac leak on the power valve. Both of which are properly hijacked in a desmogged situation, but are necessary for '75 Federal Smog. The power valve seems like a design problem, and the choke breaker is from age. My fuel/vapor separator is suspected to be roached. And the manifold has a hard to repair EGR tube connection on the early years. I can't imagine how rough the rest of the equipment must be to make work, but it looks bad, and is available to anyone who can meet me personally.
 
Now that I’ve studied the 1/79 and later emissions, the 74 and earlier are incredibly simple. If you’re not running a smog pump, there’s pretty much three systems to consider. Ported vacuum to your dizzy, PCV, and charcoal canister. Am I missing anything?
 

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