Emissions Help needed! (1 Viewer)

[Lion-O]

Here's my story..
1987 FJ60 2F, de-smoged, header, cat-converter still there,
I just failed my epa test here in Ohio.
I need to do the following things to pass.....

Drop my CO output (2500 rpm) by 4.5%

Drop my Hydrocarbons (idle) by 89.4 PPM
Drop My CO (idle) by 1.5%

Get a new gas cap...(I know how to fix this)

Any ideas? Would a better cool air intake help any of this? The carb has just been re-built by JimC, so no issues there.

Any ideas would really be appreciated.

Thanks guys

 

[swank60]

Well, other than the mechanical stuff, I'd suggest doing a SeaFoam treatment to burn off any carbon that could make things run less than optimally, and when you go in next time for the test, put some ISO HEET in the tank. It's high in alcohol and will burn cleaner than just gas. Sort of "tricks" the system.

 

[Lion-O]

Uhh....what's a seafoam treatment?

 

[swank60]

Do a search for Sea Foam, it's an additive you buy, suck into your intake and let it set a while. It'll soak into the carbon then burn it off.

 

[Lion-O]

found it thanks! any other ideas?

 

[Fearnofish!]

I should start by saying that I don't have the E-check in MT but I am from cleveland so I felt I could weigh in here.

If you feel comfortable leaning outhte carb it will definately drop your CO2, maybe even 4.5%.

Do your headers and mods all pass visual inspection in Ohio? I have been thinking of moving back but don't want to give up my trusty steed.

Could also get a new Cat. As they age they loose their ability to absorb nasties from the exhaust.

 

[lovetoski]

I'm not an emissions expert, though I've failed a few times and am learning bit by bit...but I think the root cause of your failure is that you are desmogged. I seriously doubt that you can legitimately pass when desmogged. Instead, I think you need to cheat. There are some products that guarantee you to pass, and you might also check into using Coleman fuel. (Do a search on the coleman fuel trick.)
I guess if moving is an option that might be worth considering...but cheating is probably easier.

 

[MDH33]

I passed the emmisions test here in Colorado by using the ISO HEET that was mentioned. Run your fuel really low, add a few bottles and head to the emmisions station. Worked great. I only hope it didn't do any damage running the engine on mostly alcohol...

 

[Liam]

you can also buy stuff from NAPA to put in your gas that will help out. you put this crud in there and then you have to run through a complete tank of gas. then get it retested. I would recommend putting this stuff in , seafoam, and then leaning out the carb before you go get it tested again. I am sure you only get one more shot until you have to show that you took it to a mechanic to fix the issues. In CT it is that way.

 

[toolman]

O.K. - I have to weigh in on this one. Do what you want but here is my experience. I completly rebuilt my 83 60 in Feb. of this year. Man-a-Fre long block, all the manifolds cleaned of carbon, brand new Toyota carb, 2 1/2 in. exhaust with new free flow catalytic converter. I studied all the smog systems and carfully hooked everything back up as prescribed. I was pretty sure that my Air Control Valve (the big POS mounted to the fender well) was toast, and was unsure of how good my air pump was, although it did put out air when it was idling and or reved up. I live in Colorado and we have inspections. I took it to the inspection station and it failed badly. I drove directly to NAPA, got a rebuilt air pump, went home and installed it. I rerouted the plumbing to run clean air from the air cleaner into the pump, and output said clean air directly into the injection rail at the exhaust ports.
Took it back to get reinspected and the guy (who is very experienced) said he had never seen one run as clean as this. I looked at the numbers and he was not kidding me, it almost looked like it was just air they were measuring. I'm now of the opinion that these are really the only components that really count in this system.
Hope this helps.
Tool Man

 

[60wag]

The air injection system is the major one, but not the only system required espcecially if the test is the dyno test rather than the easy two speed stationary test. Also some vehicles do pass when the technicians screw it up. I've got a copy of a dyno test report from a prev owner. The numbers are ALL to low - even the CO2. The sensor must have fallen out of the tail pipe during the test. This was back in the earlier years of the dyno test when they hadn't yet figured out everything that could go wrong. As for hooking the air pump up directly to the exhaust, that will help pass the test but if you leave it that way long term you can overheat the exhaust system and trash it.

 

[swank60]

The air injection system is the major one, but not the only system required espcecially if the test is the dyno test rather than the easy two speed stationary test. Also some vehicles do pass when the technicians screw it up. I've got a copy of a dyno test report from a prev owner. The numbers are ALL to low - even the CO2. The sensor must have fallen out of the tail pipe during the test. This was back in the earlier years of the dyno test when they hadn't yet figured out everything that could go wrong. As for hooking the air pump up directly to the exhaust, that will help pass the test but if you leave it that way long term you can overheat the exhaust system and trash it.

I'll second that.

As for what Noah said about the seafoam in the tank - that's one way to get at a seafoam treatment, but isn't as effective as sucking it up into the manifold via a vac line.

If you're not going to re-smog it, you'll probably have to cheat, as stated above. Fill 'er up with a full tank of ISO HEET or Coleman white gas, and head to the testing place.