Emergency question- 2H blowing oil out exhaust (1 Viewer)

[No. 3]

Yep, oil filter is tight. Cleaned the engine yesterday but haven't driven it yet to better see where the leak is coming from. really does seem to be the fan shaft though. Amazing how dirty the engine bay is when you really look at it. I have ordered a mess of parts (mostly seals but also tie rod ends and a knuckle rebuild kit- JT Outfitters is selling them relatively cheaply on EBay right now. Also ordered a pair of chrome-moly birfields from <http://www.addictedoffroad.com/axles.html> I'll let you know what they look like but they seemed an economical strengthening of Toyota's weak link. As long as it is in the shop and I have adult supervision I may as well tackle front axle service too.) I am lucky to know a mechanic who is happy to have me order parts and work along side him here and there. Everything should be here Thursday and then I'll know what the hell happened....

 

[duckling]

Front crank seal? It's right under the fan. Mine leaks a little and I have changed it twice. Harmonic balancer wears till its grooved then it starts to leak. Maybe under hard driving (freeway speeds) it could spray more out? Do you have the right viscosity oil?

 

[Tofudebeest]

I drive a 2H as well, and when my leaks are flowing, the rear window, tailgate, etc. get covered in oil spray.

There's NO WAY you're leaking oil into your exhaust and it isn't burning. You've got a garden-variety leak from somewhere (oil pan, transfercase, etc.) and the highway speed creates a eddy, a vortex, if you will, which sends the leak in fine droplets up and unto your glass. Find your leak, fix it, and you will not have to clean your back glass.

 

[No. 3]

The final story!

This is how it shook out and hopefully this will help someone else from panicking that their truck is gonna die (well panic a little) and prove a cautionary tale when doing anything to the crankshaft pulley (a.k.a. harmonic balancer).

I suppose that this started with the PO who rebuilt the engine at 350,000 kms. Our best, most educated guess is that the reassembly of the engine was done without dropping the transmission to back up the crankshaft when fastening down the retaining nut that holds the crankshaft pulley on the shaft. This nut demands 325 ft lbs of torque and this simply can't be done without backing up the crankshaft. I'm adding this to the laundry list of the corrections that have been necessary to the PO's work.

So over a number of years the crankshaft pulley loosened and finally failed shooting a bit of the broken woodruff key into the front main seal causing it to fail and spray oil everywhere. Everywhere. I was lucky, the failure of the pulley didn't badly damage the crankshaft- a bit of the keyway shoulder was damaged but not so much that the key moves which would make it impossible to maintain timing and necessitate a full engine rebuild.

So the moral of the story is lock the crankshaft when replacing the crankshaft pulley. Think of it as an opportunity to do the clutch, need it or not.

All of this would not have been possible without the help of Peter Phan at Auto Performance at 1900 Mission in SF (I highly recommend him!) and John & Kyla at Radd Cruisers in Vancover Island, BC for parts. John is "Radd Cruisers" on this board and is awesome. Probably you already know him.... https://forum.ih8mud.com/diesel-jdm-parts/352530-parting-out-complete-hj61-vx-grey.html

Jeff

PS: In addition to a new clutch I took this as an opportunity to relpace the tie rod ends, birfields (with Addicted Offroad OEM cromoly birfields which seemed to be extremely well made, I'll try and remember to report but probably I'll forget they're there which is good review enough!).

Your crankshaft pulley shouldn't look like this:

 

[amaurer]

Our best, most educated guess is that the reassembly of the engine was done without dropping the transmission to back up the crankshaft when fastening down the retaining nut that holds the crankshaft pulley on the shaft. This nut demands 325 ft lbs of torque and this simply can't be done without backing up the crankshaft.

So the moral of the story is lock the camshaft when replacing the crankshaft pulley. Think of it as an opportunity to do the clutch, need it or not.

I'm confused, why do you have to drop the tranny to put 300 ft-lbs on that nut? The drivetrain in 4th with the brakes on could hold that, no problem.

For 300ftlbs, you're probably going to have to use a jiggle gun anyway.

And what does this have to do with the camshaft???

 

[No. 3]

Yeah, that should have read "crankshaft" sometimes my typing goes awry.

We decided that the best way to ensure the proper torque was to back up the crankshaft by hand, not by putting it in gear. This way there was no uncertainty that any give in the transmission wouldn't cause a bad torque nor would the torque stress the transmission gearing.

If I had to do it again I would do it the same way- it was a good opportunity to service the clutch which was due anyway- it has had a whine idling in neutral that came with the truck. PO again?

 

[amaurer]

Heehee, in SF i'd just brace the wrench on a frame rail, pull it to the top of one of those famous hills, and pop the clutch on the way down. THAT'LL tighten it!