Emergency drive flange on rear hubs to seal things up. (1 Viewer)

[cody c]

On a FF, You must pull both rear axle shafts and then the entire carrier (hogshead) out the front in order to even get to the cross pins. Way more work than pulling two axle shafts and drive shaft.

However, on a SF, if you break an axle you're dead in the water anyway because the wheel hub is supported by the axle shaft.

Interesting, thought they were mostly the same (FJ80 vs FZJ80 carrier)

On a SF, you can just carry some spare axle shafts though, to your point. A bit lighter than a diff maybe.

I guess on the FZJ if your pinion or ring gear spits out teeth, you basically gotta pull drive shaft and at least one axleshaft.

Not to distract too much, but I guess on the 14B you can pull the pinion out the front, but with that 3rd bearing on the nose of the pinion there's more strength and less deflection to where (broken gear teeth) is less common.

 

[BILT4ME]

Edited. I apologize. I was being a dick to @cody c

 

[cody c]

Have you ever had a differential apart? Either SF or FF?

Would you like some pictures?

 

[BILT4ME]

Would you like some pictures?

Yes. And don't just choose some from the internet.

 

[cody c]

Yes. And don't just choose some from the internet.

Ok, Im gonna dig up a couple pics of some broken pinions.

And then Im gonna ask you what youve done or built.

BTW, check out my build thread in the sig line.

 

[BILT4ME]

Ok, Im gonna dig up a couple pics of some broken pinions.

And then Im gonna ask you what youve done or built.

BTW, check out my build thread in the sig line.

Remember what we're discussing on here. This is for a SF and FF Toyota diff.

Your thread is about one tons and you mentioned big trucks.

Those are two very different applications.

But, post away.

I'm trying to help those here understand what to do on a trail for a "standard" Toyota, not help someone that is just looking to get into a pissing contest.

Do tell me though, on that D60 how you can pull the pinion out through the front of the rear diff.

 

[cody c]

Remember what we're discussing on here. This is for a SF and FF Toyota diff.

Your thread is about one tons and you mentioned big trucks.

Those are two very different applications.

But, post away.

I'm trying to help those here understand what to do on a trail for a "standard" Toyota, not help someone that is just looking to get into a pissing contest.

Do tell me though, on that D60 how you can pull the pinion out through the front of the rear diff.

14 bolt you can remove the pinion without opening up the diff.

The reason I'm at one tons, is I've blown up and replaced too many rear diffs. And a birf up up front, actually a couple. I've also installed a few aussie lockers and auto lockers, and setup 4.88's on the 60 I had on top of full rebuild front/rear, and on buddies rigs.

You called me out and now you want to get back on topic, Im digging through pics but maybe I can get some pics of old 60/80 thirds in the garage if you want,

Back to you. Put up or get out. What have you built.

Edit: heres a pic of some junk. The only (very dusty) 60/80 carrier I have left. The box to the right is left over spider gears and parts that weren't damaged yet from ones I broke and tore out.

The large pinion gear set is actually a ford 9 (2.5 ratio!) In the background a split case torn apart, and another 60 series SF and a ford 9 axle.

There is a shiny disc which is the clutch plate sitting in there too. I had a few dozen made for 8274's. You can find that in a thread somewhere if you need proof I didn't just steal the pic off the web.

 

[BILT4ME]

The semi-float diff is going to be dead in the water if you break an axle or blow up an R&P on the trail. You will have to blow it apart and rebuild that side at a minimum before you can roll.
The full float differentials can break an axle or shell a pinion and you can pull the DS, pull both rear axles, bag or plate the ends of the hubs, and roll on outta there if you can get traction enough to get out.


(Edited: I was being a dick.)

 

[cody c]

I thought you didn't want a pissing match.

You seem to have resorted to insults now as well. "Just call @cody c , he's got the biggest, baddest ass truck of all and he'll come pull you out with a smile on his face." On top of the age insults. Most of the axles mentioned are danas.

Good bye.

 

[baldilocks]

The cool thing about the FF axle design is that if the the third member does explode all we have to do is yank both shafts and the driveline and as long as we have helpers to give us tugs through the rough spots to get us back to an improved road, we can scoot home on the front end. This is why those who run a semi float rear axle need to carry spare shafts, as in, not really optional, because that day is coming if going big is your wheeling norm.

 

[Devil's Slide Doug]

This thread went a bit off the rails. I was just curious if the front drive flanges fit on the rear hubs to cap things off..

 

[BILT4ME]

Then he can find a broken shaft, cut the one flange off..

This is a great idea.

Sorry @cody c I was being a dick. I went back and re-read your posts and now understand what you were saying.

I edited my posts to eliminate all the pointless stuff for the OP.

Sorry @Devil's Slide Doug for hijacking.

If you can pick up one or two broken axle shafts, you can make a "stub" or cut off the shaft like Cody said to cap the hubs so the axles can be pulled. A flat plate flange would work as well.

 

[cody c]

This thread went a bit off the rails. I was just curious if the front drive flanges fit on the rear hubs to cap things off..

Ya, I guess I had a part in that (sorry)

Don’t have a Toyota FF axle to check, but all you need to do is measure two bolts on front and rear hub flanges, and pull a couple to check diameter. That should tell you.

Or if you have a drill in your gear you bring, just grab some aluminum or plastic (like Sinatra pvc) and throw that in to make a couple plates of ever needed

 

[alia176]

Not sure what you mean.

You can pull cross pin and spider gears without pulling the diff out. Easier on the back too with the cover, just a bit of oil to deal with.

The 80 series rear and front diff housings have no cover so you have to pull out the 3rd member in order to access the items you mentioned. Unless I'm missing something....

 

[BILT4ME]

The 80 series rear and front diff housings have no cover so you have to pull out the 3rd member in order to access the items you mentioned. Unless I'm missing something....

The semi float rear diff on the 91-92 have a cover on the rear of the diff for access to the c-clips.

When the cover and the diff are out, it's a big open banjo box.

 

[alia176]

The semi float rear diff on the 91-92 have a cover on the rear of the diff for access to the c-clips.

When the cover and the diff are out, it's a big open banjo box.

Ahhh, the semi floaters have a cover, gotcha.

 

[cody c]

The 80 series rear and front diff housings have no cover so you have to pull out the 3rd member in order to access the items you mentioned. Unless I'm missing something....

Ive only had SF rear 80 series (and 60 series), ALL of which have covers on the back side. So your kind of right but only about FF's.

The thread is primarily about FF's so my bad in that confusing with SF rear.

 

[baldilocks]

Has the original question been answered?

 

[Broski]

YES you can run a front flange on the rear full float axle.
Unless it been modified to run RCVs.
And why I wanted that spare RCV flange from you Steve!!!

 

[george_tlc]

Seems like a pretty simple thing to design up and 3D print since all you're after is a reasonably 'sealed' temporary cover plate... Print 2. Would weigh a lot less than some chunks of steel to keep in the tool kit

cheers,
george.