Emergency drive flange on rear hubs to seal things up.

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Going through my trail spares. The old drive flanges are “spares for my front locking hubs”. The question I have is in the scenario where you destroy a rear third member but need to drive home is it feasible to remove the rear prop shaft and remove the inner drive axles and then “cap off the rear hubs” with drive flanges. This would allow you to drive home in front wheel drive and keep the rear wheel bearings happy.
 
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Going through my trail spares. The old drive flanges are “spares for my front locking hubs”. The question I have is in the scenario where you destroy a rear third member but need to drive home is it feasible to remove the rear prop shaft and remove the inner drive axles and then “cap off the rear hubs” with drive flanges. This would allow you to drive home in front wheel drive and keep the rear wheel bearings happy.
Yes, this would work for the full-float rear axle.

If I am correct, the front drive flanges will actually bolt in place on the REAR hubs as well, so you can use a spare set of front drive flanges with a cap as a rear hub blank-off plate. The end of the rear axle shaft IS the flange on the end of the axle. They are not separate pieces.
 
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I just had my rear axle shafts pulled the other day for a bit of rear dif service. I didn’t think about it at the time and test fit the flanges. I’m just thinking about options for driving home rather than a 500+ mile tow. With locking hubs the front is easy.
 

alia176

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Why do anything for the rear axle housing except to just pull the axles out and stuff rags in the holes? Ain't that the beauty of full floaters?

Changing gears to the front hub, why do anything up front if you have locking hubs? I have Aisins too and if I break something up front, just turn the lockouts to "free" mode and drive home. If you bust a diff or a birf, unlock the hubs and get outta there in rear wd mode. Well, at least that's my plan 'cause I don't wanna do a birf swap in the field even though I have fully greased Longfield living in the spare box. What am I missing here?

Shame we don't have rear axle shafts w/o attached flanges so that we can use Aisin lock outs back there too ;)
 
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Why do anything for the rear axle housing except to just pull the axles out and stuff rags in the holes? Ain't that the beauty of full floaters?

Changing gears to the front hub, why do anything up front if you have locking hubs? I have Aisins too and if I break something up front, just turn the lockouts to "free" mode and drive home. If you bust a diff or a birf, unlock the hubs and get outta there in rear wd mode. Well, at least that's my plan 'cause I don't wanna do a birf swap in the field even though I have fully greased Longfield living in the spare box. What am I missing here?

Shame we don't have rear axle shafts w/o attached flanges so that we can use Aisin lock outs back there too ;)
For the front at least, a broken birf can lock up your steering.
 
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Why do anything for the rear axle housing except to just pull the axles out and stuff rags in the holes? Ain't that the beauty of full floaters?

Changing gears to the front hub, why do anything up front if you have locking hubs? I have Aisins too and if I break something up front, just turn the lockouts to "free" mode and drive home. If you bust a diff or a birf, unlock the hubs and get outta there in rear wd mode. Well, at least that's my plan 'cause I don't wanna do a birf swap in the field even though I have fully greased Longfield living in the spare box. What am I missing here?

Shame we don't have rear axle shafts w/o attached flanges so that we can use Aisin lock outs back there too ;)
Some of us don't run the oil seal and want to keep our wheel bearings lubed in the event we pull the axle shafts. I'm talking about driving hundreds of miles at highway speeds. It seems it would be better to seal things up a bit better.
 

alia176

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Some of us don't run the oil seal and want to keep our wheel bearings lubed in the event we pull the axle shafts. I'm talking about driving hundreds of miles at highway speeds. It seems it would be better to seal things up a bit better.

Ahhh, that piece of the puzzle I wasn't aware of. So, you don't have an axle tube seal so once you pull the rear axle out you need a drive plate to keep the gear oil inside. Makes total sense now.
 
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Maybe I did not explain. My 80 is part time with selectable hubs in front. I carry a spare birfield and other bits. If I destroy a front dif I can run in part time with the hubs unlocked. If I destroy a rear dif I can remove the rear prop shaft and pull the rear axle shafts and drive home in front wheel drive (with the 80 in 4 wheel drive and front hubs engaged). Unless I spit out a broken pinion the diff should be sealed up pretty well and with my flanges (taken from my spare parts) the rear hubs will remain sealed up and lubed for a long drive home. no screwing around with duck tape and rags, etc.
 

alia176

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Maybe I did not explain. My 80 is part time with selectable hubs in front. I carry a spare birfield and other bits. If I destroy a front dif I can run in part time with the hubs unlocked. If I destroy a rear dif I can remove the rear prop shaft and pull the rear axle shafts and drive home in front wheel drive (with the 80 in 4 wheel drive and front hubs engaged). Unless I spit out a broken pinion the diff should be sealed up pretty well and with my flanges (taken from my spare parts) the rear hubs will remain sealed up and lubed for a long drive home. no screwing around with duck tape and rags, etc.

Makes total sense to me, thanks!!

Shame we can't turn our rear axle shafts into non flanged model then run Aisins in the rear too!!
 
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Ahhh, that piece of the puzzle I wasn't aware of. So, you don't have an axle tube seal so once you pull the rear axle out you need a drive plate to keep the gear oil inside. Makes total sense now.
Then he can find a broken shaft, cut the one flange off..

Then if he breaks, swap the short side axle shaft to the long side, and put the one flange on the short side.

Or pull the cross pin and spider gears in the diff.
 
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It's safe to say that we all try to pull the diff out in the bush :confused:
Not sure what you mean.

You can pull cross pin and spider gears without pulling the diff out. Easier on the back too with the cover, just a bit of oil to deal with.
 
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Not sure what you mean.

You can pull cross pin and spider gears without pulling the diff out. Easier on the back too with the cover, just a bit of oil to deal with.
Only on the semi-floating rear diff.

Nobody is going to try to remove the diff in the field if they can avoid it.
 
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Only on the semi-floating rear diff.

Nobody is going to try to remove the diff in the field if they can avoid it.
Edit: why can’t you pull the cross pin on a FF? Or access the spiders?
If your diff explodes on a semi, then your in there anyways. But need the cross pin and spacer block to keep the C clips in. If your pinion shat out 1/3 of its teeth then you basically need to remove a pinion or ring gear or swap a spare third member in.

I’ve blown a few SF diffs. Easier to just call AMA. Hopefully the 14B solves that for a while.
 
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Edit: why can’t you pull the cross pin on a FF? Or access the spiders?
If your diff explodes on a semi, then your in there anyways. But need the cross pin and spacer block to keep the C clips in. If your pinion shat out 1/3 of its teeth then you basically need to remove a pinion or ring gear or swap a spare third member in.

I’ve blown a few SF diffs. Easier to just call AMA. Hopefully the 14B solves that for a while.
On a FF, You must pull both rear axle shafts and then the entire carrier (hogshead) out the front in order to even get to the cross pins. Way more work than pulling two axle shafts and drive shaft.

However, on a SF, if you break an axle you're dead in the water anyway because the wheel hub is supported by the axle shaft.
 

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