Emergency Brake light won't stay off... (1 Viewer)

[koszowskima]

Hey all,

So I have read that the brake fluid may be low however, the problem I am having is a little different than what was described previously...

So the light is on when the brake is engaged, and then I lower it all the way down and it turns off. I'll be driving and hit a little bump or the road will be bumpy and the lever jiggles and the light turns on. If I just nudge it down it turns off again. It seems like a sensor issue however not sure what is down there. If I hold my hand on the emergency brake (not actually engaging or disengaging the brake) the brake light stays off. But with my hand off and I hit a bump it seems to move a centimeter up and the light flips on...

Thoughts?

 

[GeologistFelix]

So:

1. There's a little float in the brake fluid reservoir on top of the master cylinder under the hood. It will flop around a little if you're really close to being low on fluid and go over bumps.

2. There's a little sensor/switch under the handbrake lever that makes the same light come on when the handbrake it engaged.

I don't remember exactly where it is relative to the other business that comes up through the carpet around the brake lever, but you should see if there's anything interfering with it or your lever. I'm also sure there's a plug that goes with it, and my guess is that it's a momentary interrupt switch (no pressure on switch: on, pressure on switch: off) that powers the 'BRAKE' warning light when the lever isn't all the way down.

If it is wired like that, you can find the plug for that switch, unplug it, and see if it solves your problem. Also, just go ahead and check your brake fluid level. It's easy to look at the level in that little plastic reservoir, with a flashlight shining through if it's really gunked up and diffuse sunlight isn't enough to see it clearly. My brake light would flicker on bumps when my master cylinder was leaking internally, sucking air, and trying its best to kill me by requiring multiple pedal pumps to stop...but, your brake lever issues suggest a pleasantly easy fix by comparison, so let's hope for that!

 

[2mbb]

Maybe the switch is getting a little wonky or what ever part of the hand brake that pushes on the switch plunger needs a little adjustment. The picture I got from cruiserparts.net. They show the same switch from 1970 to 1990. If the bracket is used on FJ60, it might need a little tweak.

 

[4runner2FJ60]

probably NLA but do you have the part number? Mine is permanently out, and its not the light bulb.

 

[koszowskima]

Thanks for the info, I will dig up that piece. I assume something is off with the sensor. I will let you know what I find.

Also, does anyone have any info on a cigarette lighter not working? possible problems?

 

[2mbb]

There is a specific fuse for the cigarette lighter, 15amp CIG. It also fuses a clock, power antenna and OEM radio. Assuming you have an FJ60, you don't have a clock or power antenna so you may not otherwise notice if the fuse is blown. Otherwise, it should be easy to check with an volt/ohm meter if you have 12V supplied and continuity to ground.

 

[koszowskima]

There is a specific fuse for the cigarette lighter, 15amp CIG. It also fuses a clock, power antenna and OEM radio. Assuming you have an FJ60, you don't have a clock or power antenna so you may not otherwise notice if the fuse is blown. Otherwise, it should be easy to check with an volt/ohm meter if you have 12V supplied and continuity to ground.

Yes 1987 Fj60.

Gotcha, I was just in the fuse box the other day and checked all of them. They were all intact. However, I will check to make sure that the slot is getting power.

 

[EscapeWagon62]

Go simple first (advice I forget to follow all the time)
Had a similar issue, problem was carpet/shift boot at the front of the e-brake. Carpet bunched up putting pressure on the boot putting pressure on the ebrake handle.
Also - if there is too much slack in your ebrake, the upward pressure or bump makes it easier for the light to turn on.
Check for carpet boot interference and there is a tighening knob under the boot to tske out the slack.
cheers

 

[koszowskima]

Go simple first (advice I forget to follow all the time)
Had a similar issue, problem was carpet/shift boot at the front of the e-brake. Carpet bunched up putting pressure on the boot putting pressure on the ebrake handle.
Also - if there is too much slack in your ebrake, the upward pressure or bump makes it easier for the light to turn on.
Check for carpet boot interference and there is a tighening knob under the boot to tske out the slack.
cheers

Good advice. the carpet was redone at some point so that may be the issue. I'll check it out.

 

[koszowskima]

One problem solved... The emergency light kept flickering on because the carpet had been jammed between the brake and the metal pad at the bottom of the brake handle. Cut out the extra carpet and the light stayed off.

Made some progress on the Cigarette lighter: A 15A fuse was missing so I put in there and fired it up and it popped. I took off the dash display and unwrapped some tape. The white wire had melted through the casing into the red wire (yikes). I taped both of them up for now but want to figure out why that wire is getting so hot.

Thoughts?

Thanks

 

[Hojack]

My BRAKE warning light came on last weekend while driving around. I pulled the brake handle to set the parking brake and the light gets brighter. Take the parking brake off and it dims.
If I turn off the 60 then reapply power to the ignition with the parking brake off the BRAKE light will be on. Turn the key and the light goes off. Parked I can lift the parking brake handle and the light goes on and take the eBrake off and BRAKE light goes out. Once I drive a short distance, less than a 1/4 mile the BRAKE light comes on again. Play with the Ebrake handle and it doesn’t do anything. Unplug the connection to the brake and it stays illuminated. My brake fluid float is removed and has been fine ever since the swap. It’s not allowing my alternator to charge the 60 and draining my battery. Help before the weekend would be great to give me places to start or similar issue that somebody solved.
thanks
Jason

 

[EscapeWagon62]

I’m no expert but this would appear to be related to the fluid reservoir not the handle switch.
Try removing/disconnecting the wiring from the reservoir completly and see if it goes away.

 

[Hojack]

I’m no expert but this would appear to be related to the fluid reservoir not the handle switch.
Try removing/disconnecting the wiring from the reservoir completly and see if it goes away.

I removed the brake fluid level sensor years ago, have had no issues with it removed.

 

[g-man]

One problem solved... The emergency light kept flickering on because the carpet had been jammed between the brake and the metal pad at the bottom of the brake handle. Cut out the extra carpet and the light stayed off.

Made some progress on the Cigarette lighter: A 15A fuse was missing so I put in there and fired it up and it popped. I took off the dash display and unwrapped some tape. The white wire had melted through the casing into the red wire (yikes). I taped both of them up for now but want to figure out why that wire is getting so hot.

Thoughts?

Thanks

Was the tape you unwrapped some old electrical tape placed there by the previous owner? I mean not stock toyota wiring. Was there sign of any spliced wires? Do you still have the stock electrical connection/plug that is a few inches away from the cig lighter ?

those wires overheated was because there was too large a draw on them. Like plugging a hair dryer or power inverter and loading it up combined with a heavier fuse in there by mistake. Or maybe the fuse is bypassed completely and the wires are coming off the battery or another source? I'd suspect this if there is no plug and signs of spliced wires and electrical tape. Can you ohm test between the positive wire at the lighter and the downstream side of the fuse holder?

 

[Hojack]

In a FJ60 does the BRAKE warning light come on if the battery is not charging from the alternator?

 

[Hojack]

Testing with my ohm meter. Testing only the switch and it’s got continuity when parking park switch is on and no continuity when brake is off. Switch is functioning. Checked the other side of harness and have continuity. Removed the gauge cluster and disconnect the wiring harness. No continuity. Check each wire terminal at harness to eBrake switch. No continuity to ground on red w/ yellow tracer wire but have continuity to ground on the white with black tracer. Plug harness back together behind gauge cluster. Wires have continuity with each other and both with ground.

 

[Hojack]

Removed the drivers seat to start inspecting wiring.

Found this area that looked suspect.

The white w/ black tracer is connected to two wires going toward the passenger side.

I’m wondering if this is the negative and does the eBrake switch ground the BRAKE light circuit?

 

[ToyotaMatt]

E-brake is a GROUND SIDE Switched Circuit in a fj60

 

[Hojack]

E-brake is a GROUND SIDE Switched Circuit in a fj60

Thanks for the response. So what I’m wondering is why the BRAKE light is staying on with the harness to the eBrake switch disconnected. Under my seat as seen in my pictures above I have the ground from eBrake harness and a splice with a white w/ black tracer from the passenger side. I have not blown any fuses. Power somewhere after the BRAKE light must be grounding. I have the brake fluid switch removed and has been so for years now, no issue.

 

[ToyotaMatt]

did u unplug the sensor on the master cyl cap fluid sensor ?

see what happens