Elocker to cable conversion pics. (1 Viewer)

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bjowett

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Hey all, here are a few pictures of the cable conversion I am working on. I've never enjoyed an electronic piece that replaces a perfectly good mechanical system - this really applies to the e-locker, though in sharp contrast, I love fuel injection. The decision to convert the rear unit (and soon the front) to cable operation, rather than wire in the electronics, was a no brainer. Although this is on my 4-runner, I thought many of you could apply this to Cruisers.


The rear half of the elocker gear case was retained, along with shaft and gear. A simple lever was welded to the shaft, an auto trans. shift cable and mount from an early 90's Corolla is used for the lower half. I have the cable run up into the cab, but no further, it is a tad short, so two may be connected. More pictures as it develops. Feel free to ask any questions.
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Oooooh :eek: !!! Thanks for those pics. Looks like it's turnin' out pretty swell. I am going to be trying to fab up some cable controls for my e-lockers that are goin' into my FJ60. And although the ones going in my axles are the J80 rears (and yours are the fronts), this definitely gives me some ideas... Where'd you get all your stuff? What did you use to make it "spring" back to unlocked when you release the pull? What are you using for the pull/lever?
 
I have a J80 series locking axle in the driveway... it will meet the same mod when it finds a vehicle to live under.

The cable is a true push/pull unit, it requires no spring action. the ends which protrude out from the sheath are solid rod.... like the choke cable on a FJ40, but MUCH larger. The cable/mounts/etc all came from the local yard - 2 cables, mounts, brackets, even took the whole auto trans shift assembly. I'll be using 95% Toyota parts to complete it, so it should look somewhat oem.

I have not built the control lever or knob as of yet. As soon as I do, the pics will be here.
 
That is positively gorgeous! I've been looking at lockers lately, and in all of my research, I haven't been able to find how much a fj80 elocker costs. What would one of those set me back for my piggy? Sweet job!
Zipp.
 
The e-lockers only fit in the FF axle assemblies for all LC models.  All LCs have FF front axle assemblies, but most North American LCs have semi-float rear axle assemblies.

That being said, to put the e-locker into a FF axle, you need the complete locking third member and one new axle shaft (longside for the front; short-side for the rear).  The thirds you can find used--I got mine (in excellent shape) for $375 shipped to my door with a 3 month warranty/guarantee.  I also found the front axle shaft I needed for only $100, but the rear I had to buy new (got it from a member of this board for a great price--just a bit under $200 for a new seal and the new shaft).  Pricing the other third right now and they're around $450-500 for a good used one.  As for the FF rear axle assembly, I am going in with three other local cruiserheads and getting them shipped to us from OZ.  Not sure on the exact pricing yet, but around $450-$550 each shipped--and it's a complete assembly minus the third (none of this missing brake parts crap if you've ever tried to find a FF at all...).  A couple other miniscule parts are needed (dif gasket, and dif studs)
 
Oh, or you could fit some J80 complete locking axles underneath your rig. There was some fellow on the LCML who put some J80 axles (or was it just the rear....) underneath his FJ62. He cut all the link and coil spring suspension stuff off of it and converted it to the stock SUA setup. The only "issues" are that the axle is wider (about 5 inches IIRC) and the third doesn't *exactly* line up with the stock 62 t-case output, thus making the driveshaft angled towards the side a bit. Anyway, I guess there's a couple of choices, but IMO, J80 axles would be WAY to wide for a 40/45/55 (unless you're a rock-crawlin' fiend... :G ) and I don't like how wide they are under a 60 either--that's why I'm goin' the route that I am.

bjowett, what were you thinkin' you were gonna stick your complete J80 axle under?
 
Not sure.... if the full floating 8" V6 elocker proves to weak under the runner (I doubt it will) it may end up there. It's already as wide as the J80, and I run a J80 front axle complete.

The J80 axle is also the only Toyota unit that has a snowballs chance of holding up to the monster Hino/Toyota 8.0L Turbo diesel I have. If it dosn't sell, it may become part of that project.
 
If your looking for FF axles man-a-fre has them listed on sale for $395 for 40s
 
You should write this up for the Tech section, or maybe collaborate. Full-floating rear axle, disc brakes and a cable locker at the same time -sounds like the ticket for my 40. Is your cable hooked to a shifter or a pull knob?
 
Thoughts about doing a shift type engagement lever, even have several automatic shifter assemblies that would fit the bill, but they are simply to bulky for the tiny 4-Runner cockpit. The runner already has the rear heater, two transfer case shift levers (dual cases) and the shift lever for the R151F 5 speed. A simple pull push device has been built, it protrudes from the cubby where the radio would be with no top, the radio does not live there. So the short answer is "pull knob".
 
Nice work, Brian. The problem with the landcruiser rear e-locker is that the actuator is a rod which moves in and out of the diff housing connected to a fork which moves the locking cog. The force involved may be considerable that Toyota in the factory cable lockers uses some sort of leverage to actuate it (see pic I linked in one of the older threads). &nbsp:Downey's cable conversion prototype connects directly to the actuating rod, but I believe Jim lowered the detent spring tension for the actuator. He also uses a non-leveraged push and pull control button in his kit.

My point is although the cruiser rear e-locker may be a bit more involved in converting to cable.

Dave
 
Hey Dave. I do know what you are speaking of with the 9" LC diff, the 8" has the same rod, however, teeth are cut into the rod along it's length, and this allows the gear to move it in and out. The 8" unit also uses a similar fork. I agree wiht you on the 9" unit, it will probably need some rocker lever type device to help move it.... similar to the way the factory once did it.

My 8" unit is nearly complete, just need to 'pretty up' the dash mount, for now it is simply the cable end protruding from the radio hole. Oh yeah, it works pretty well. Sometimes the splines are not lined up wihle at a stop, but it takes only a second of wheel spin to line up and smoothly engage. On the fly it works smoothly 99% of the time. Pictures soon.
 

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