CuCruiser
SILVER Star
That #5 almost looks clean? Thats what happens when it gets steam cleaned...
Builds Elma the red 60 (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter joebattle1
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- #82
Got the head out to the machine shop in Stockton that Georg recommended. Should get it back in a week or so. In the mean while doing a bit of busy work.
Got the oil pan off cause, well... why not right. Debating buying a new radiator and AC compressor. The AC unit started making some noise right before I took the rig apart. The rad is just old and beat up. All these parts are starting to add up. Trying to get the truck back up quick but may need to wait to reassemble after I buy all of these parts.
Used the Toyota Jack to pop the oil pan. That thing was stuck like a duck. Took a ton of turns on the jack to get it to finally let loose.
Bit of smudge but no metal shavings.
Couple of the first gen 4Runner homies stopped by to give me a hand. @Chopperbobsmith's is the white one on 35's. He's a bad mother sucker in the hot rod/custom car world. You should follow his Instagram which is the same name as his mud name. He builds million dollar cars with his bare fists. Hence why his first gen is so sweet.
Got the oil pan off cause, well... why not right. Debating buying a new radiator and AC compressor. The AC unit started making some noise right before I took the rig apart. The rad is just old and beat up. All these parts are starting to add up. Trying to get the truck back up quick but may need to wait to reassemble after I buy all of these parts.
Used the Toyota Jack to pop the oil pan. That thing was stuck like a duck. Took a ton of turns on the jack to get it to finally let loose.
Bit of smudge but no metal shavings.
Couple of the first gen 4Runner homies stopped by to give me a hand. @Chopperbobsmith's is the white one on 35's. He's a bad mother sucker in the hot rod/custom car world. You should follow his Instagram which is the same name as his mud name. He builds million dollar cars with his bare fists. Hence why his first gen is so sweet.
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- Thread starter
- #83
I also stopped by Georg's for a hang and picked up another fusible link as mine was cooked.
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@orangefj45 shop always looks like a land cruiser museum. I like spending time there just like @TRAIL TAILOR. Good thing I don't live closer,
cause I'd be that guy!
cause I'd be that guy!
I saw nobody had chimed in about the radiator. Did a lot of MUD research recently since my rad started leaking.
The only real replacements available that retain the stock look are the CSF and the performance radiator. OEM is NLA. Mine was a CSF that decided to start leaking at all the seams. The radiator shop I went to said that the CSF radiators are notorious for skimping on the solder, so they all start to leak in fairly short order. I read mixed opinions on the performance radiator. The rad shop also didn’t recommend going aluminum.
I ended up having mine recored and it came back looking like new, and the seams are all filled nicely with solder. I will warn that the cost of a recore has really gone up significantly. Mine cost $700. A lot more than the aftermarket, but figure it should hold up better in the long run.
The only real replacements available that retain the stock look are the CSF and the performance radiator. OEM is NLA. Mine was a CSF that decided to start leaking at all the seams. The radiator shop I went to said that the CSF radiators are notorious for skimping on the solder, so they all start to leak in fairly short order. I read mixed opinions on the performance radiator. The rad shop also didn’t recommend going aluminum.
I ended up having mine recored and it came back looking like new, and the seams are all filled nicely with solder. I will warn that the cost of a recore has really gone up significantly. Mine cost $700. A lot more than the aftermarket, but figure it should hold up better in the long run.
mattressking
10 digits to freedom
OEM is still available, just harder to get and more expensive, but apparently no different in pricing than your re-core job. Pics of it? I’d like to see how it turned out.
That’s news to me, everything I found said it was discontinued. Here is a pic of mine recored.
It was beat up before the recore, with JB weld patches all over the top tank seams to try and keep the flood waters back.
mattressking
10 digits to freedom
Yea it’s a bit of a part number hunt, but i was able to find it. Just a tick under $700, so either way it wouldn’t be cheap!
- Thread starter
- #89
Seriously, Georg pretty much has to throw me out everytime I'm there. I'll have to make my way to Jason's shop one of these days.
Good to know. I've been really on the fence on this. $700 is a little steep for me at the moment. I think I'll use mine for now and hope my last repair holds up for a while.
I'd love to know that part number... I have a laundry list of parts to buy before I replace this I suppose. I'd want to go OEM or as close to it as possible at this point.
mattressking
10 digits to freedom
Hilariously, I found 16400-61090 as an available replacement exactly one year ago today. Now looking again, it must have went NLA in the past 6mo as it was still available in April, 2018. Perhaps Amayama can acquire?
- Thread starter
- #91
That looks really good. I’ll start researching shops that do this in my area.
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- #92
Got some parts in the mail today. Still need the hoses on the fire wall.
Anyone know any part numbers for these? @mattressking? Or know where a good diagram is of the fire wall hoses?
Anyone know any part numbers for these? @mattressking? Or know where a good diagram is of the fire wall hoses?
- Thread starter
- #93
Greg,
It's definitely going to take me some time to get it all buttoned back up.
I had the machine shop take care of the galley plug for me. What is this thing for exactly? As in why did Toyota install this? What's it's function?
mattressking
10 digits to freedom
Firewall hoses are almost all NLA except for the heater valve itself.
The only available hose is the 'L' from the bottom of the heater valve to the firewall. Rest are NLA in US/Middle East markets. Might get lucky on Amayama.
87245-90A00
I use partsouq for diagrams and purchasing and also cross-reference with Toyota Norwalk for US availability.
The only available hose is the 'L' from the bottom of the heater valve to the firewall. Rest are NLA in US/Middle East markets. Might get lucky on Amayama.
87245-90A00
I use partsouq for diagrams and purchasing and also cross-reference with Toyota Norwalk for US availability.
- Thread starter
- #95
Thanks dude. I'll order what I can find then. I thought SOR was selling some after markets maybe? Gotta go look over there again.
I've gotten a few things from Partsouq. Good source for sure.
NeverGiveUpYota
Dare me.
Find your diagrams here and part numbers then cross to Toyota parts deal then make a deal on the cost through a local dealer.
TOYOTA LAND CRUISER 60FJ60LG-KA - | Japan Parts EU
TOYOTA LAND CRUISER 60FJ60LG-KA - | Japan Parts EU
- Thread starter
- #97
Got a little more done today. Scraped the bottom of the block and got all of the old cork gasket off.
Also ran the wire wheel on top of the motor and piston heads and cleaned up all the carbon build up.
I got hung up taking the side cover off to change that gasket. What's up with getting the dizzy off? I read to tap on the dizz with a wood block. I couldn't get a wood block under it with the oil cooler there.
Also ran the wire wheel on top of the motor and piston heads and cleaned up all the carbon build up.
I got hung up taking the side cover off to change that gasket. What's up with getting the dizzy off? I read to tap on the dizz with a wood block. I couldn't get a wood block under it with the oil cooler there.
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NeverGiveUpYota
Dare me.
I’m kinda amazed your doing all that w/ so much inplace. And a wire wheel and a chisel? Man you must have a huge set. How are you keeping all the debris from falling into the block? All my digits are crossed for you....
- Thread starter
- #99
Felicity, lol, If by large set you mean 3 than yes, I have a large set. Small, Med & large. The one pictured is the large one.
When using the wire wheel...My right hand held the drill with the wire wheel attached and my left hand held the shop vac hose right next to it sucking up the debris as I went. Worked well actually. That’s an old trick though...
Regarding not removing more stuff... you should talk, miss bottom end rebuild while motor still in. Haha. I’m kicking my self for not removing the whole drivetrain for this job. Would have made all of this work so much easier. Especially with this walking cast I have on. Sucks to have to crawl under the truck with this bulky thing on my leg.
My big struggle now is getting the dizzy off so I can get the side cover off. Looking for suggestions there.
NeverGiveUpYota
Dare me.
You definitely missed my sarcasm.
Touché.
Touché.
