Electrical woes continued... (1 Viewer)

[wob]

Here is the brief description from last week...

http://69.61.14.149/forum/index.php?board=2;action=display;threadid=4253

I picked up the truck today, drove out of the mechanics, and the damn thing started sputtering agin. This time the wire to the fusible link off of the battery completely smoked. Get back to the mechanic so we can try and figure this out, and this is where I now stand. In reverse or neutral, tcase in gear or out of gear, no problems revving the engine. As soon as it goes in drive, 2 or L, and the engine revs, the car sputters, and that wire gets hotter than hell. So, obviously it's some kind of electrical problem, right? Anybody ever heard of a vehicle doing this? The mechanic thinks that the torque from the engine in drive is making a wire that is located near the engine act up. I'm stumped.

Any suggestions? ??? ??? ??? ???

 

[cruiserdan]

Wob,

If I'm thinking correctly, the engine will torque in the same direction regardless of which gear it's in. I wonder if something is wrong with the neutral safety switch. I have seen at least one FZJ80 with a goofy neutral safety switch that was damaged by long time exposure to antifreeze from a leaking PHH. The leak was not bad enough to hit the ground when the vehicle was stopped but the neutral safety swith connector and pins were UGLY. I may be way off base but it's worth a look.


Dan

 

[Gumby]

C-rationdan
The motor will torque over the other way when in reverse. It's a reaction to the driveshaft not wanting to turn, not so much the momentum of the engine parts. Does that make sense? reading it back to myself it sounds a little goofy.

WOB,
It could be what your mechanic is thinking and it could also be the N/S switch as Cdan says. I'm wondering about the harness where it passes next to the EGR tube. Brake torqueing it in gear should tell you if you have excessive engine movement from a broken or worn engine mountm but even normal engine movement can cause a short to appear if it's close. I had a friend with a 340 challenger that lost his power brakes every time he jumped on the throttle. The vacuum hose was pulling out of the booster.

 

[cruiserdan]

Gumster,

I just trundled out to the green machine for a bit of field testing. You be correct. When in forward gear and power braking the engine, it torques to the RH side of the vehicle. When in reverse, the engine torques to the left. Your comment about the moper reminded me that the air intake hose between the air cleaner and the throttle body could be cracked, resulting in the engine going lean when it torques and opens up the crack. That may be the stumble but it doesn't adequately explain the electrical issue ???

Signed stumpped in the desert

 

[landtank]

Put the T-case in neutral and then try drive. This will eliminate the engine torqueing. If it still runs rough then the problem is in a circuit that is activated by putting it in drive. Can't think of what that would be but I'll ponder on it and if I come up with something I'll post.

 

[landtank]

Ok I'm an Idiot! Check all the wiring inside the console. For that link to smoke you would need a direct short to ground. A wire near the shift linkage must be out of place and has been chafed enough so when you shift into drive it gets shorted to ground. Good-luck

 

[wob]

Sorry, I should have written more originally.
I put the tcase in neutral, gear in drive, rev up, no problem. It only happens when the tcase is in gear. I thought that it might be related to something in the electrical when the gear shifter was in drive, but I don't think that is the case. It also does the same thing when the gear is in 2 or L. It only happens when the engine toques going in the forward direction.

Anybody want a 96 LC with 96000 miles? j/k

I'll get to the bottom of this even if it breaks me (not far to go). :-\ :-\

Thanks for all of the suggestions. Keep 'em coming. Cdan, will you ask one of your mechanics if they have ever heard of such?

 

[BMT]

Here is a shot in the dark but have you checked the coil? It sounds like when there is no load on the motor it is fine and will rev. Under load (in gear) it sputters and shuts down. If the coil is going bad or is bad, it will draw more power than needed and cut out when it is under load. It is a part that won't throw a code. Just a thought.

 

[wob]

[quote author=BMT link=board=2;threadid=4350;start=msg32944#msg32944 date=1061222687]
Here is a shot in the dark but have you checked the coil? It sounds like when there is no load on the motor it is fine and will rev. Under load (in gear) it sputters and shuts down. If the coil is going bad or is bad, it will draw more power than needed and cut out when it is under load. It is a part that won't throw a code. Just a thought.
[/quote]

Thanks for the suggestion, but wouldn't it do it in forward and reverse? I'll go check and see if the mechanic is having any luck later on today. This is really starting to pi$$ me off. ??? ???

 

[wob]

Woo hoo!

Got it back y'day, and all is good once again. Mechanic said that a harness had come loose by the engine, and every time the engine torqued forwar, it touched an exposed wire, resulting in the a/m problems. No, I didn't ask him which wires were causing the chaos, I was in too much of a hurry (not to mention I didn't want him to change his mind about not charging me any more labor!)

Thanks again for everyone's suggestions. I guess the LC is not on the market any longer.


Will

 

[landtank]

That's great Will.