Electrical mystery: Headlamps, horn, hazard flashers.

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The figures refer to the diameter surface in mm2. Surface x length define the amperage the fuse represents.
If you want to replace yours with American gauge fusable link wire, you need to recalculate.
The amp ratings of the fusible links used across all asian manufacturers are these:

Fusible link colors.webp
 
Thanks guys for chiming in.

I have technically fixed the problem with what i had on hand (not the prettiest) to see if I could at least get everything working.
I stripped down the two smaller wires, and crimped them together on a terminal ring. Did the same thing to the larger black wire.

Everything works now. But now going to plan a nicer set up to remove this one for peace of mind.

IMG_8482.webp
 
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@OGBeno awesome. I did bookmark a company that makes aftermarket version for $74. So might see if I should hold off for OEM or go with aftermarket.



I would highly recommend reading up on him before sending your money. Go to the "Bad Sellers" section of MUD and bring popcorn.
 
Not sure what you refer to as 'wires'. Probably the rest of the fusable links? Did you take out the blown link?
You are basically without a fuse now on the first feet across the engine bay up to the fuse box, I guess.
I wouldn't go with this for long...
Good Luck Ralf
 
@Felde No, I did not remove anything from the setup. All I did was expose a little bit more of the wire in order to crimp the terminal ring on to see if i could get the headlights to come on. How you see the fusible link setup is how i bought the truck. one of the previous owners probably snaggged the longer ends for another project.

would it still technically be a fusible with the much shorter wires I'm working with?


lastly: for an immediate but temporary solution, should i pick up 3 of the napa fusible link wires and run those until i can track down a new fusible link setup?

 
I got lost ..
At least one of the wires must have been interrupted, causing the headlight circuit to fail.
With your repair, you must have either removed or bypassed that interrupted piece of wire. So, were was the interruption?
I guess, there are two possibilities now, concerning the leftover 'wire' :
a) It was never a fusible link, but just anything wire a PO put.
b) It actually was a fusible link, which blew somewhere on a section you removed or bypassed, and you are now running on the remaining leftover shorter part of it.
For a): Wouldn't make much of a difference to the previous condition, but would be quite dangerous.
For b): It would still be a fuse, but a much weaker and unpredictable one, as the previous shortage heated the entire fusable link. It blew at the weakest point, but the rest would also be compromised.

I wouldn't guess. In any case: Replacement is needed; soon.
Try to find the original join to the original harness (plug&socket and bolted ring terminal) and go from there. Crimp a ring or rewire the existing plug. Put new midi fuses of the ampere ratings that are suggested by the original fusible links color. Actual fusible links would be best, but you can also use slow MIDI fuses. It's only important that the unprotected distance between battery terminal and fuse is as short as possible and well insulated.
You may find something like this: MIDI fuses holder that directly connects to the battery terminal: MTA MidiVAL Sicherungsverteiler 3-fach SX MIDI BF1 Streifen Sicherung 32V Halter | eBay.de - https://www.ebay.de/itm/184878424937?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=707-127634-2357-0&ssspo=uipxyurutrc&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=urJMHgV8Twi&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY.
Not original, but safe.

Those Napa fusible links have one issue: You don't know the correct rating you need, as the concepts are different:
- Toyota goes by amperage (just defined a bit clumsy by square x length, but actually quite straightforward due to the color code).
- Napa / US concept goes by gauge rating: The fusible link of choice is one gauge level smaller than the average gauge of the circuit to protect. But you don't know the average gauge of the Toyota's circuit (which is a statistical value, not the actual wire gauge of the harness, as chassi rails and other components play in).
Good Luck Ralf
 
OK got it. Good info there. Thanks again for all your help.

At first i thought my battery cable spark caused my fusible link to fry. But it turns out that the wire had some simply broken off the terminal...causing the lack of power to headlights, horn, hazard.


here was the culprit.

1757538141345.webp
 
Oh wow. Got it now.
The PO definitely messed it up.
Apparently, the connector is the original connect to the harness (green on red and yellow on white wire).
The black wire also is the harness; apparently the bolt connector for the ring terminal supposed to be on there is completely missing ...
Nothing works as a fuse here... !
Reuse the connector, rewire it with some wire you know is good. You already have a ring terminal on the black, which you can use. Put a 3x fuse holder in line to the battery as previous suggested, and you are golden.
Cheers Ralf
 
Hello,

I am late to the party.

One detail. Your battery terminal is not OEM.

The part number for the terminal is 90982-05030.

Since you are in the neighborhood...





Juan
 
I have this type of "military" battery connection to attach several ring terminals.
1757595618329.webp
 
@Tanner H, I switched to the milspec terminals like mentioned above by @jblueridge . These are much better than the OEM version but will require some wiring modifications. I solved my fusible link problem by using a fusible link from a 1Hz (should work for you with a 3B) and some other bits- you can see how I did mine and other parts needed here and in subsequent posts:

@cruiseroutfit has the link I used and it's only $24

I use custom Cable and Wire for all of my wiring needs- great prices and they will make custom cables with terminals, heat shrink tubing etc for not much more than the cost of the components. They are a great resource and typically have the best price on terminals, connectors and high quality wire.

Incidentally, I sent my old 3B fusible link to Matt at Vintageteqparts and that is what he used to recreate his listed item.

Many ways to "fix" your problem, and there are lots of write ups on mud with people doing so.
 
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