Electrical issues 96 FZJ w/lockers

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Sep 18, 2002
Threads
101
Messages
1,210
Location
Rosamond Ca.
It's been a while since I have been on MUD. But I ran into a problem recently I may need help with, so I came back to the best Land Cruiser resource.

So, there I was. The 80 sat for a while and killed the battery. A quick charge and it fired right up...a few weeks ago. I got the expected airbag/srs light that I have been to lazy to test/reset. Somewhere between then and now I thought it would be a great time to pressure wash the engine bay. Been driving it about once a week but nothing to need 4-low. Until a recent impromptu run to Nightmare Gulch. I have ran it before in just 4-low, but recent washouts made at least the rear locker pretty desirable. So, we get into the trail, I select 4-low, and turn the knob. Locker lights just flash (out of frustration I didn't even notice the CDL light not being on). I tried several cycles of the H/L handle, with no change. Through the whole trail not one of the 3 locker indicators showed to be engaged. Somehow I made it through the trail with little trouble, though not taking lines I wanted, but whatever. After getting home did a quick search here, and found that repeated cycling of the H/L handle sometimes fixed this. Sometimes taking out the position switches and finessing them on a workbench or just replacement fixed the issued, particularly the CDL sensor. I'll be messing with those for sure. But if those things do not work?

Should the CDL still work with an Airbag/SRS light on?

Could I have screwed something up when pressure washing under the hood?

I'll also be doing the Airbag/SRS reset then trying the CDL/Lockers. After that the CDL sensor troubleshooting and 4-low switch (gotta find them). And if those don't work the locker connections themselves.

Wish me luck.

I'll post back with results.
 
The CDL will work with the airbag on.
Never ever pressure wash the engine. These engines don't like forced water on them. You will ruin more than you know. That was a bad move.
 
I didn't really figure the Airbag light was any factor on the CDL/Lockers, but tries anyway...Yep no impact.But the Airbag light is now out, so that's a little progress.

Those beers told me pressure washing the engine was a killer idea. Who knew they were lying to me... :p
 
I would do what you suggested to yourself first....get airbag light off.

Pressure washing is def. a bad idea. Gunk and toothbrush then low pressure to rinse. I took my Ford 7.3 diesel to a rep. diesel shop for a severe oil leak. They fixed it up then decided to pressure wash the engine in good faith. Bad idea. It shorted out a whole circuit of sensors. Cost the shop over $1k in sensors from ford. The owner said they do it all the time.....I said "WHAT, you've been getting lucky" They don't do it anymore.
 
Tricked the CDL into working and lockers locked with the CDL plug jumpered. Proving the wiring to be fine. Pulled the switch, cleaned it and cycled the crap out of it. Ohm checked it in both positions. 0.0 Ohms relaxed, and 0.5 ohms compressed. Reinstalled the switch, connected it and still no CDL, and thus no lockers.

Does anyone know if those ohm values are what they should be?

I disconnected and reconnected the 4-hi/low switch connector, but didn't take it off the transmission.

Am I missing anything else that should be obvious?

Hopefully the CDL itself is good. Don't wanna mess with repairing that if I don't have to.
 
Tricked the CDL into working and lockers locked with the CDL plug jumpered. Proving the wiring to be fine. Pulled the switch, cleaned it and cycled the crap out of it. Ohm checked it in both positions. 0.0 Ohms relaxed, and 0.5 ohms compressed. Reinstalled the switch, connected it and still no CDL, and thus no lockers. Does anyone know if those ohm values are what they should be? I disconnected and reconnected the 4-hi/low switch connector, but didn't take it off the transmission. Am I missing anything else that should be obvious? Hopefully the CDL itself is good. Don't wanna mess with repairing that if I don't have to.
By "ohm checked" I assume you mean a resistance/continuity check, if not, that's the problem. When you do a resistance check, with switch in the "relaxed" position, you should get infinite resistance, or a 1 on the meter. This is because the switch is in the open position, so there should be no connection, no connectivity... In the "compressed" position It should read close to .000 because the switch is internally "connected" when depressed, hence signal continues through the switch to each of the multimeter probes (continuity).
 
Sounds reasonable. Guess I'll be ordering a switch and see what happens. I'll be checking the values for comparison before installing it too.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom