Hey fellas, need a bit of your advice here please.
I recently took my 2017 LX to its last (thankfully) free dealer service at 65k miles.
I know and trust the advisor and tech although they failed to work with me in the beginning and they generally take good care of the truck since.
This last service seemed ok at first although they torqued my wheels off center but here is where i messed up by trusting them...
My rear camera hydrophobic coating was worn off ever since i bought my truck, probably due to car washes or aggressive polishing wheel at some point.
Since the rear neg pressure zone hugs dust, any amount of moisture always stuck everything and made a blurry mess of the rear view.
Seeing as i have one more year of full warranty, if have odds and ends i try to get it done with the dealer at every visit.
This time i asked for it to be replaced, only due to knowing full well it was a 2 bolt 15 min job they could surely not **** up, and risk minimal damage.
Well, I guess not...
The first drive out with the new camera, i noticed it was not calibrated at all, and viewing angle was off;
Ok, fine, I looked into the FSM and there sure enough is a procedure on it that must be done when replaced.
I can try when i have a moment and im sure they skipped it as "skilled" as they are working on a single brand...
No big deal. Im better at doing this sort of thing myself anyway as I've adopted and adjusted thousands of IP cameras...
Next drive however i go over to see my baby niece across town. A 30 min drive at 75 MPH. Here comes the fun part.
Upon leaving that night, the car wont start... battery is dead.
Ok, sure I thought i had battery issues a couple months ago and topped it off and its been perfect since. Must be an old battery.
So i jump the car with no issue and try to back up out of their garage and would you look at that!
It just so happens the rear camera has gone dark, and ONLY the rear camera and is giving a caution symbol!
So now im pissed off.
Not that i may have to buy a new battery (which i will make the dealer do) but because i take METICULOUS care of this truck (and all my things).
The last thing i want is some electrical gremlin to chase down for the next decade or two of ownership.
That is honestly the one and only thing ive been concerned about in owning this truck long term from a reliability standpoint.
I think some of you know me by now and were it not for dependability, id be in a RR or something german with 600HP.
So yes, im a bit pissed off.
Im gonna take apart the panel and take a look at this camera before i contact the dealer tomorrow and see to two things:
1) is there any type of nonsense involved (obvious crimp short, contamination short)
2) is the camera the CORRECT part? (hoping its stamped but will have dealer send me the info before i even hint of a problem)
So hence why im asking for advice here.
It does seem there are two variants of camera that could be what is causing this issue but id like to know what further issues it could induce.
Im fairly certain my SALE date was OCT 2017, so it def needs the highlighted part # and if i had to bet, id say they put in the newest one.
That part actually hits for my year on my dealer source website whereas the 60061 is accepted.
I just want to understand how a camera could cause something like this, or what sort larger issues putting in a wrong electrical component could cause.
How can i check for anything other than scanning codes? Does anyone have similar experience and advice or deal with something like this?
Somehow it worked again after a restart at home but i haven't done any more testing since last night.
I know this may seem trivial to some but i don't like people playing on my truck. ima keeps it real.
But seriously this just cannot be a coincidence, and i dont believe in such a thing anyway.
Specially after taking a longer journey than i typically do at highway speeds and nothing else has changed at all with the truck but this.
I would rather have my engine explode in my face than wonder if some board got zapped that will haunt me forever and is impossible to figure out.
Sorry for the long winded post, Im not trying to be a dick and im generally a very easy going guy but this is the worst type of issue to have IMO.
I am no gear-head in the automotive sense of the word but i completely understand you guys who never even take a new vehicle to them despite saving maybe even $1000 in the first couple years. Ive shared some dealer frustrations before but i just dont see the point anymore. The annoying part is my dealer would not take parts back to exchange under warranty unless they pulled, booked, and did the work. Even when i showed them my cracked rear spring. It's the labor they want to bill through to corporate. This is also why I'm not just going to buy a battery and then beg for them to reimburse me. Im gonna order a deka though still... 2 week lead time.
I recently took my 2017 LX to its last (thankfully) free dealer service at 65k miles.
I know and trust the advisor and tech although they failed to work with me in the beginning and they generally take good care of the truck since.
This last service seemed ok at first although they torqued my wheels off center but here is where i messed up by trusting them...
My rear camera hydrophobic coating was worn off ever since i bought my truck, probably due to car washes or aggressive polishing wheel at some point.
Since the rear neg pressure zone hugs dust, any amount of moisture always stuck everything and made a blurry mess of the rear view.
Seeing as i have one more year of full warranty, if have odds and ends i try to get it done with the dealer at every visit.
This time i asked for it to be replaced, only due to knowing full well it was a 2 bolt 15 min job they could surely not **** up, and risk minimal damage.
Well, I guess not...
The first drive out with the new camera, i noticed it was not calibrated at all, and viewing angle was off;
Ok, fine, I looked into the FSM and there sure enough is a procedure on it that must be done when replaced.
I can try when i have a moment and im sure they skipped it as "skilled" as they are working on a single brand...
No big deal. Im better at doing this sort of thing myself anyway as I've adopted and adjusted thousands of IP cameras...
Next drive however i go over to see my baby niece across town. A 30 min drive at 75 MPH. Here comes the fun part.
Upon leaving that night, the car wont start... battery is dead.
Ok, sure I thought i had battery issues a couple months ago and topped it off and its been perfect since. Must be an old battery.
So i jump the car with no issue and try to back up out of their garage and would you look at that!
It just so happens the rear camera has gone dark, and ONLY the rear camera and is giving a caution symbol!
So now im pissed off.
Not that i may have to buy a new battery (which i will make the dealer do) but because i take METICULOUS care of this truck (and all my things).
The last thing i want is some electrical gremlin to chase down for the next decade or two of ownership.
That is honestly the one and only thing ive been concerned about in owning this truck long term from a reliability standpoint.
I think some of you know me by now and were it not for dependability, id be in a RR or something german with 600HP.
So yes, im a bit pissed off.
Im gonna take apart the panel and take a look at this camera before i contact the dealer tomorrow and see to two things:
1) is there any type of nonsense involved (obvious crimp short, contamination short)
2) is the camera the CORRECT part? (hoping its stamped but will have dealer send me the info before i even hint of a problem)
So hence why im asking for advice here.
It does seem there are two variants of camera that could be what is causing this issue but id like to know what further issues it could induce.
Im fairly certain my SALE date was OCT 2017, so it def needs the highlighted part # and if i had to bet, id say they put in the newest one.
That part actually hits for my year on my dealer source website whereas the 60061 is accepted.
I just want to understand how a camera could cause something like this, or what sort larger issues putting in a wrong electrical component could cause.
How can i check for anything other than scanning codes? Does anyone have similar experience and advice or deal with something like this?
Somehow it worked again after a restart at home but i haven't done any more testing since last night.
I know this may seem trivial to some but i don't like people playing on my truck. ima keeps it real.
But seriously this just cannot be a coincidence, and i dont believe in such a thing anyway.
Specially after taking a longer journey than i typically do at highway speeds and nothing else has changed at all with the truck but this.
I would rather have my engine explode in my face than wonder if some board got zapped that will haunt me forever and is impossible to figure out.
Sorry for the long winded post, Im not trying to be a dick and im generally a very easy going guy but this is the worst type of issue to have IMO.
I am no gear-head in the automotive sense of the word but i completely understand you guys who never even take a new vehicle to them despite saving maybe even $1000 in the first couple years. Ive shared some dealer frustrations before but i just dont see the point anymore. The annoying part is my dealer would not take parts back to exchange under warranty unless they pulled, booked, and did the work. Even when i showed them my cracked rear spring. It's the labor they want to bill through to corporate. This is also why I'm not just going to buy a battery and then beg for them to reimburse me. Im gonna order a deka though still... 2 week lead time.
