Electrical Accessories and Wiring Harness Planning

[Bad Mojo]

I have been planning out my wiring harness for a while and these are the items I have come up with so far. If people have others feel free to add them. I broke items down to the location through out the vehicle. At the bottom I am also including some of the links and materials I am looking at using.

Front of Vehicle
1.Aux lights
2.Winch

Engine bay
1.Underhood light
2.Intergrated jumper cables
3.Fuse panel 1 (All critical fuses related to basic operation and safety of vehicle.)
4.Battery kill switch
5. Winch Albright switch
6. Upgrading to Roundeyes
7. Military style battery connections.

Factory Radio Slot
1. FJ62 Clock
2. Potential FZJ80 locker switch
3.Potential aux power outlet
4. Wilson Switch

Dash
1. Factory Tach
2. Fuel gauge to read aux tank when switch over.
3. Potential brake controller tucked underneath.

Dash pad
1.Diesel Gauges integrated into a pod like this that gets recovered when I redo my dash pad.

Tuffy Center Console
1. Radio with ipod jack (Looking at a heavy duty unit from from Jensen)
2. Center console light
3. Potential location for second fuse panel for accessories.

Overhead Console
1. CB
2. Ham
3. Overhead light
4. Aux front light switch
5. Seat warmer switches
6. Aux tank switch
7. OBA switch

I am thinking about ARB styled switches with these labels.
MUDSTUFF.CO.UK, Carling Switch Legends, Land Rover Defender Solutions: West Yorkshire

Roll Cage
1. Radio speakers
2. Rear interior lighting

Rear Interior of Vehicle.
1. Hook up for fridge
2. Switches for rear interior lighting
3. Potential inverter

Rear Exterior of Vehicle
1. Switch work light that works with reverse lights
2. Trailer harness

I plan on using Weather Pack Connectors through out the vehicle. However, I will replace and work to maintain factory Toyota switches. Because of my 1HZ swap I am going to order wire by the foot and custom build my entire harness and try to color match the best I can to Toyotas original harness.

Once the harness is built I plan on drawing up the entire diagram in either Autocad or Illustrator. From there I will print off and laminate a couple copies and save it as a PDF as well.

I am looking for any feedback on this list and ideas of what other people have done.

 

[1911]

That's a fairly ambitious program, but nothing un-doable if you plan and execute it well. You'll have a LOT of wire running, which will be hard to hide and route in a 40. I ran ham radio & GPS power, as well as ham radio antenna coax and speaker wires through my MetalTech roll cage and like the cleanliness. Yes, drilling holes in your roll cage could weaken it but if you drill small holes the loss of strength is minimal and acceptable in my experience.

I think you will want to use several auxiliary fuse boxes to group this many accessories, and an upgraded alternator for sure, and dual batteries would be a good idea too.

 

[Bad Mojo]

That's a fairly ambitious program, but nothing un-doable if you plan and execute it well. You'll have a LOT of wire running, which will be hard to hide and route in a 40. I ran ham radio & GPS power, as well as ham radio antenna coax and speaker wires through my MetalTech roll cage and like the cleanliness. Yes, drilling holes in your roll cage could weaken it but if you drill small holes the loss of strength is minimal and acceptable in my experience.

I think you will want to use several auxiliary fuse boxes to group this many accessories, and an upgraded alternator for sure, and dual batteries would be a good idea too.

It is a bit ambitious, but it makes sure everything is done in a thought out manner. I also know I won't get everything installed at once, but I want my wiring already set up to handle everything I know I want, plus any future demands.

The 1HZ should be pushing out around 80 amps.I have debated upgrading it if I need to. I can jump up to a 150 pretty easily if I want. I also planned on upgrading to one of the big marine batteries. Would you go to the 150? Thanks for the suggestions.

I planned on welding some rings or small pieces of tube on top of my cage for the wire to run through to help keep it neat and tucked out of the way.

 

[FixedIt]

Cool list! subscribed

 

[1911]

The 1HZ should be pushing out around 80 amps.I have debated upgrading it if I need to. I can jump up to a 150 pretty easily if I want. I also planned on upgrading to one of the big marine batteries. Would you go to the 150? Thanks for the suggestions.

80 amps is probably fine as long as you don't run everything all at once, but with an alternator there is not much downside to having excess capacity since unlike a generator even a large one won't overcharge the battery. I put a 200-amp Mean Green in my 40 just to make sure that I can run most of my stuff all at once if I wanted to (fridge, winch, Roundeyes, ham and cb radios, GPS, ipod amplifier, etc.).

I planned on welding some rings or small pieces of tube on top of my cage for the wire to run through to help keep it neat and tucked out of the way.

That would be good too.

 

[Bad Mojo]

80 amps is probably fine as long as you don't run everything all at once, but with an alternator there is not much downside to having excess capacity since unlike a generator even a large one won't overcharge the battery. I put a 200-amp Mean Green in my 40 just to make sure that I can run most of my stuff all at once if I wanted to (fridge, winch, Roundeyes, ham and cb radios, GPS, ipod amplifier, etc.).

That would be good too.

That's a good point. I will most likely upgrade as I add more strain to the system. What brand fridge do you run? And do you have a dual battery set up?

Sent from my iPhone using IH8MUD

 

[Coolerman]

Use relays for any higher powered devices allowing the wires to be smaller and easier to route/hide.

Multiple fuse panels is a good idea. An under hood panel and an under dash or glove box panel will save a lot of wire.

Use fuse panels with multiple power inputs. That way you can have key/relay switched sections and sections that are always on.

Incorporate ground wires into your harness to eliminate grounding issues. Light housings, dash lights, power ports, trailer wiring. Use multiple ground circuits so that if you lose one ground the whole system does not go down.

Don't forget a master fuse/circuit breaker/fusible link.

Fuse each headlight separately for extra safety.

That's all I can think of for now...

 

[Chevypower]

Like Coolerman said, use a ground wire for everything, don't trust the housing to ground through the paint or different panels.

 

[1911]

What brand fridge do you run?

I have an ARB 37 qt.

And do you have a dual battery set up?

My next project; collecting parts for it now. So far I have done OK with a single Sears Die-hard Platinum (Odyssey) and my big alternator.

Use fuse panels with multiple power inputs. That way you can have key/relay switched sections and sections that are always on.

For any accessory up to 30 amps, these are great little fuse blocks (top one on the page): Products

You can switch anything wired to this block between switched or constant on at will by just moving the fuse position. I have one (so far) in my 40. They're very compact (made for motorcycles) and fit almost anywhere. I love this fuse block!

Fuse each headlight separately for extra safety.

+1, the easy (but not cheapest) way is to buy a headlight harness from Wired Wagon here on mud. I have two of his harnesses and IMO they are way worth the money; super quality build: https://forum.ih8mud.com/merchandise-storefront/354712-headlight-wire-harness-fj60-fj62.html

 

[Coolerman]

That IS a neat little fuse block! I am assuming those terminals will handle 12ga wire since it's 30 amps rated?

I added that fuse block to my list of cool electrical things, thanks for the link!

 

[Bad Mojo]

Use relays for any higher powered devices allowing the wires to be smaller and easier to route/hide.

Multiple fuse panels is a good idea. An under hood panel and an under dash or glove box panel will save a lot of wire.

Use fuse panels with multiple power inputs. That way you can have key/relay switched sections and sections that are always on.

Incorporate ground wires into your harness to eliminate grounding issues. Light housings, dash lights, power ports, trailer wiring. Use multiple ground circuits so that if you lose one ground the whole system does not go down.

Don't forget a master fuse/circuit breaker/fusible link.

Fuse each headlight separately for extra safety.

That's all I can think of for now...

All great information thanks.

I have an ARB 37 qt.




My next project; collecting parts for it now. So far I have done OK with a single Sears Die-hard Platinum (Odyssey) and my big alternator.




For any accessory up to 30 amps, these are great little fuse blocks (top one on the page): Products

You can switch anything wired to this block between switched or constant on at will by just moving the fuse position. I have one (so far) in my 40. They're very compact (made for motorcycles) and fit almost anywhere. I love this fuse block!




+1, the easy (but not cheapest) way is to buy a headlight harness from Wired Wagon here on mud. I have two of his harnesses and IMO they are way worth the money; super quality build: https://forum.ih8mud.com/merchandise-storefront/354712-headlight-wire-harness-fj60-fj62.html

I like both of those products. Thanks for the tips. Do you feel the 37qt gives you enough room in the forty for other gear? Plus how long can you live out of it? I am also working on my rear storage ideas.

Where is everyone mounting relays? Is it where they are needed or do you try to keep them in one location kinda like a fusebox? Thanks.

 

[Coolerman]

Just keep the relays dry (or use water proof relays and sockets), and you can mount them where needed. I try to plan placement based on how long the power feed wire will be. Simple rule is to keep the power wires as short as possible. This can let you use smaller gauge, easier to route wires. Under the hood on the inner fenders is a good place but can make fender removal a pain...

 

[1911]

That IS a neat little fuse block! I am assuming those terminals will handle 12ga wire since it's 30 amps rated?

I added that fuse block to my list of cool electrical things, thanks for the link!

You're welcome. I put mine in a couple of years ago but I'm pretty sure that I ran 10ga from the battery and have 12ga and 14ga coming out of it. I've been very happy with it, and it's nice to switch back and forth from always on to switched for radios and such. FWIW, here is a photo of mine installed in my Con-Ferr tool box behind my seats:

 

[1911]

I like both of those products. Thanks for the tips. Do you feel the 37qt gives you enough room in the forty for other gear?

It takes up a lot of space for sure. That's the smallest one ARB makes but sometimes I wish I had bought a smaller one in another brand (Waeco?). About half the time, I'm alone in my truck on my wheeling trips, so I'm thinking about making a 3/4" plywood platform for it that would replace the passenger seat for those times. Nevertheless, I've had it and a passenger and all our stuff for a week in the 40 with the top on, and loaded pretty full.

Plus how long can you live out of it? I am also working on my rear storage ideas.

Two people can eat out of it for a long time, depending on what you take. I don't drink anything except water and protein shakes, and I don't care if the water is cold or not so that saves quit a bit of space for me.

Where is everyone mounting relays? Is it where they are needed or do you try to keep them in one location kinda like a fusebox? Thanks.

Most of my relays are in the engine bay, on the firewall and on the fender aprons like Coolerman said. The Farkleshop fuse block has its own integral relay which is handy.