Electric Slide into Madness (2 Viewers)

[Joe45]

So my 1980 HJ45 has some electrical issues.

• The headlights are very dim. I am getting the Toyota headlight replacement kit (#81110-60P70) tomorrow to hopefully remedy that issue. Maybe installing LEDs.
• The turn signals work sometimes, other times not. Earlier today they were working, then the right turn signal indicator on the instrument cluster stayed on (not blinking), then both indicators stayed on (no blinking), then the left one worked-blinking very slowly-then it stopped.
• Horn doesn't work (there's a faint sound). So it may just be the actual horn is faulty. Will test.
• The temperature gauge does not work/no wire from sender.
• The entire cluster doesn't, actually. I think the fuel gauge works, but not sure.
• The hazards are wired to an after market switch on the dash. Not sure why this would be done.
• When the turn signals stopped working/indicators stayed on, the hazards wouldn't work either.
• Turn signal lights on rear are very dim: lots of rust on the bulb sockets. Will clean it up a bit until I get new break pods.

Anyone have or know of an electrical schematic for this vehicle? I am thinking maybe rewiring it would be best, but for now, if I could just get the turn signals to work within the next couple of days, as I have to drive about 2,500 miles.
The wiring look so thin, and some of the connections to the rear lights are taped together with that yellow paper tape.

Is the instrument cluster something that parts are sold for, or best to get a whole new one?

Years ago I rewired my 1980 CJ7 using a kit from Painless Wiring. It worked great and was pretty straight forward-with great immediate phone support. Unfortunately, they don;t make a harness for the Toyotas.

Saw this, though:

Wiring Harness for Toyota Land Cruiser FJ40 FJ45 FJ55 – JT Outfitters

www.jtoutfitters.com

Thanks!

 

[Chungas Revenge]

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&ved=2ahUKEwiVrqLchaf_AhXtMlkFHcS-CrkQFnoECBYQAQ&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.globalsoftware-inc.com%2Fcoolerman%2Ffj40%2Fwiringmainframe.htm&usg=AOvVaw0aCcCg87BEqQpsffO5u2WJ

Try looking here…

 

[Joe45]

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&ved=2ahUKEwiVrqLchaf_AhXtMlkFHcS-CrkQFnoECBYQAQ&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.globalsoftware-inc.com%2Fcoolerman%2Ffj40%2Fwiringmainframe.htm&usg=AOvVaw0aCcCg87BEqQpsffO5u2WJ

Try looking here…

Thanks.
Good resource!
Not sure if it will apply to my vehicle electrics, but good stuff!
Thank you!

 

[Joe45]

So this morning the turn signals worked and-SURPRISE-so did the horn!

I'm thinking there must be a lot of corrosion and probably really badly done connections.


Here are some pictures of the wiring under the dash.

 

[Joe45]

And a few more...

 

[John McVicker]

You’ve got an absolute mess on your hands there.

One thing you need to do is change out everyone on those glass fuses. (Be certain to use the appropriate size fuse). You’ve got a lot of corrosion on the fuses which is likely part of the reason some work & some don’t.

 

[bikersmurf]

Never underestimate the importance of a ground

I drove my truck for the first time in too long. I'd swear I had electrical gremlins if I didn't know the source of the problem. My windshield wipers stop working when I step on the brakes, hit a bump, or turn a corner. The front turn signals also light up when Braking. The hazards also do...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[Joe45]

You’ve got an absolute mess on your hands there.

One thing you need to do is change out everyone on those glass fuses. (Be certain to use the appropriate size fuse). You’ve got a lot of corrosion on the fuses which is likely part of the reason some work & some don’t.

Yeah.
Doing that later today and tomorrow.
Also will be doing something to remove the corrosion from those fuse terminals-if possible.
The horn is now louder, and the headlights brighter.
I think the diesel vibration has helped renew some connections-just gotta watch it doesn't also lead to a short!
Blows my mind to see yellow paper tape on some wire splices! WOW!!!
Gonna at least remove that tape, use electrical tape, and then some liquid electrical tape.
I may also solder them.

 

[bikersmurf]

Yeah.
Doing that later today and tomorrow.
Also will be doing something to remove the corrosion from those fuse terminals-if possible.
The horn is now louder, and the headlights brighter.
I think the diesel vibration has helped renew some connections-just gotta watch it doesn't also lead to a short!
Blows my mind to see yellow paper tape on some wire splices! WOW!!!
Gonna at least remove that tape, use electrical tape, and then some liquid electrical tape.
I may also solder them.

In a real pinch I’ve used paper tape to get home but never left it that way. What I’ll do to get home to fix it is far different from how I’d leave it.

For the fuse terminals I’ve rolled sand paper, used a Dremel, or used a round chainsaw file.

 

[45Dougal]

And a few more...

View attachment 3339158

View attachment 3339159

View attachment 3339160

Yes that's a hand throttle - something I removed on day one.
The big 'question marked tape ball' looks like your flasher unit.
You'll feel it click when indicating.
Yes the ring on the bottom of the fuse box is ground - looks like it needs a new ring crimping on.
The white wire above it which you've also marked "ground?" is a bodged +ve feed from your bottom fuse, I'd figure out where it goes, it either feeds new equipment like an amplifier or it was to fix something that stopped working.
My 77 HJ45 was worse, and while you have some issues there, I wouldn't rush out and buy aftermarket junk that will never be right.
My advice would be to print off the wiring diagram as big as you can, and then work through each circuit, correcting it with a magic marker until it reflects your actual wiring.
Then once you've done that you're in a good position to start ripping out the old crap that isn't needed.
Most "fixes" in mine were unnecessary, and were done because the previous owner didn't have a wiring diagram, or much of a clue about electrics.

The hazard switch is a three pole beast which was optional in some countries - maybe yours didn't have one - I used a 4PDT toggle switch, but the pull switches are available if you want to spend the cash.

Watch out for your glow circuit - this seems to be a favourite one to bodge and carries 50 amps or so.
Do you have the glow controller below the headlight switch still operated from the key switch? Maybe you have an aftermarket button instead?

The purple wire maybe powers your aftermarket blower? It's connected to a two pole connector in your photo. On my truck, that connector has an unfused positive feed straight from the battery - you might want to check that and put a fuse inline to keep things safe.

 

[Joe45]

Yes that's a hand throttle - something I removed on day one.
The big 'question marked tape ball' looks like your flasher unit.
You'll feel it click when indicating.
Yes the ring on the bottom of the fuse box is ground - looks like it needs a new ring crimping on.
The white wire above it which you've also marked "ground?" is a bodged +ve feed from your bottom fuse, I'd figure out where it goes, it either feeds new equipment like an amplifier or it was to fix something that stopped working.
My 77 HJ45 was worse, and while you have some issues there, I wouldn't rush out and buy aftermarket junk that will never be right.
My advice would be to print off the wiring diagram as big as you can, and then work through each circuit, correcting it with a magic marker until it reflects your actual wiring.
Then once you've done that you're in a good position to start ripping out the old crap that isn't needed.
Most "fixes" in mine were unnecessary, and were done because the previous owner didn't have a wiring diagram, or much of a clue about electrics.

The hazard switch is a three pole beast which was optional in some countries - maybe yours didn't have one - I used a 4PDT toggle switch, but the pull switches are available if you want to spend the cash.

Watch out for your glow circuit - this seems to be a favourite one to bodge and carries 50 amps or so.
Do you have the glow controller below the headlight switch still operated from the key switch? Maybe you have an aftermarket button instead?

The purple wire maybe powers your aftermarket blower? It's connected to a two pole connector in your photo. On my truck, that connector has an unfused positive feed straight from the battery - you might want to check that and put a fuse inline to keep things safe.

Why did you remove the hand throttle? I'm thinking of reconnecting it. Driving across the country without some sort of pedal assist is a terrible thought-especially with the gas pedal as high as it is.
In an old Jeep I had, I rigged up a bicycle gear lever to the shifter so I could activate/deactivate with my thumb. Driving on long hauls, it made a big difference.

I have a schematic that's labeled for BJ40, BJ43 & HJ47, 1981 Production Vehicle. Would that work for my 1980 HJ45? Also, the diagram seems confusing to me: I don;t know electrics. I did rewire my old CJ7, but that was with a premade harness.

While under the HJ45, I was thinking I could label where each wire goes to, and then remove it, keeping the harness intact. Then I could maybe get a modern fuse box and build my own harness. Not sure if this is realistic, but thinking copying the harness with new wires may be relatively straight forward.
Thoughts?

 

[Joe45]

Here’s a picture of the wiring underneath-for the taillights-after removing the paper tape.
I have since applied liquid electrical tape and then a wrap of regular electrical tape.

 

[Joe45]

Not sure if these are considered junk, but they seem to be good:

Wiring Harness for Toyota Land Cruiser FJ40 FJ45 FJ55 – JT Outfitters

www.jtoutfitters.com

Wiring Simplified: Do it yourself with an American Autowire kit

Check it out, we show you guys how to install an American Autowire wiring harness kit in your classic truck.

www.motortrend.com

Severe Duty Universal Wiring System

Severe Duty Universal Wiring System

americanautowire.com

American Autowire: Wiring Harnesses and Accessories

American Autowire is the premier wiring harness manufacturer. We manufacture wiring harnesses for any automotive project! GM OEM restoration, restomod and modified restoration as well as custom Street Rods!

americanautowire.com

 

[sggoat]

Thanks.
Good resource!
Not sure if it will apply to my vehicle electrics, but good stuff!
Thank you!

how is your battery charge?

 

[45Dougal]

Here’s a picture of the wiring underneath-for the taillights-after removing the paper tape.
I have since applied liquid electrical tape and then a wrap of regular electrical tape.

View attachment 3339725

Looks like someone cut off the old light fitting, expecting that the new one would have plenty of wire to make the splice. Clearly it didn't!
You can buy new centres for the bulb holders with longer wires (search BA15S bulb holder on eBay). Solder in some decent quality nylon ones, and heat shrink over the solder joint.

The aftermarket kits are as good as you can install them, but you'll be lucky to find one with the original wiring colours and connectors and fit etc etc, which means fault finding other problems in future can be difficult (nobody else will be an expert in your wiring).

Work through the diagram and you'll probably find that 99% of the wiring is fine.
That last 1% causes the problems

 

[Joe45]

how is your battery charge?

Seems to be fine. Have had no trouble starting. MEchanic says that after a few days of not driving/starting the vehicle, it seems to take just a little more effort to start, but that's it.
Why?

 

[Joe45]

Looks like someone cut off the old light fitting, expecting that the new one would have plenty of wire to make the splice. Clearly it didn't!
You can buy new centres for the bulb holders with longer wires (search BA15S bulb holder on eBay). Solder in some decent quality nylon ones, and heat shrink over the solder joint.

The aftermarket kits are as good as you can install them, but you'll be lucky to find one with the original wiring colours and connectors and fit etc etc, which means fault finding other problems in future can be difficult (nobody else will be an expert in your wiring).

Work through the diagram and you'll probably find that 99% of the wiring is fine.
That last 1% causes the problems

Thanks! I will look into that!

 

[South Texas 97]

I redid my rear harness completely after finding a bunch of chewed up/crispy wiring under the pax side frame rail.
here on my thread
@Coolerman has both the wiring and connectors available.
or here for more bulk quantities of wire.
it is easy enough to remove the spring and insulator plate for the bulbs and resolder new wire all the way.

 

[Joe45]

I redid my rear harness completely after finding a bunch of chewed up/crispy wiring under the pax side frame rail.
here on my thread
@Coolerman has both the wiring and connectors available.
or here for more bulk quantities of wire.
it is easy enough to remove the spring and insulator plate for the bulbs and resolder new wire all the way.

Great info!!! Thanks!!!