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EGR Problems - won't idle when connected

Discussion in '60-Series Wagons' started by brownbag, Jul 24, 2005.

  1. brownbag

    brownbag

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    I'm ready to firebomb my 60 and quit this expensive addiction...

    I had the infamous warped intake/exhaust manifold problem due to the carb cooling fan being disconnected for god knows how long - POR. Since I had fixed it on my previous 60, I thought no problem. Here's what I have done to date:

    -intake/exhaust manifold planed at machine shop.
    -new OEM intake/exhaust gasket
    -rebuilt carb (cruiserparts.net - they do a great job BTW)
    -new insulator and insulator gaskets
    -new egr pipe gasket (pipe comes off exhaust manifold)
    -new exhaust donuts
    -new OEM carb insulator/gasket assembly
    -new OEM vacuum lines
    -new HAC assembly
    -verified vacuum hose routing several thousand times...

    Runs great with 20PSI of manifold vaccum - only if the EGR valve is disconnected. If I connect the EGR, the manifold vacuum drops to 10-12 and barely idles.

    A cruiser freak in the area was parting out an old 60, so I bought the EGR valve and switching assembly. No difference.

    The truck also hesitates and jerks occassionally at highway speed even with the EGR disconnected and lines plugged.

    Any suggestions?
     
  2. Pluton

    Pluton

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    I currently have a similar problem...but I haven't looked at the vacuum,,,Where did you hook up your vacuum gauge? It seems likely that some device is allowing vacuum to reach the egr when it shoudn't be...or, connecting the egr enables a big vacuum leak somewhere...or both...but where? These things sure are complicated!
     
  3. chitown40

    chitown40

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    It is possible that you got a bad EGR from your cruiser buddy. Take a vac pump and connect it to the EGR and squeeze. If the truck completely dies instead of just idling rough then you know at least the ball inside is mving freely. Sounds like something inst seating correctly and causing a major vac leak.
     
  4. lovetoski

    lovetoski SILVER Star

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    Do you have the emissions manual? If not, you need to purchase it. There are specific steps to check the operation of every sub-system, and nearly every component in each sub-system. In addition to your vacuum guage, you'll need a multi-tester. It's tedious, but not all that hard. Something is broken, and the emissions manual will help you to find it.
     
  5. john q

    john q

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    Krynen, Let me know if you have success. I posted a simular problem under "FJ60 hesitation....stumped". When I bought my 85 FJ60 a year ago I had the entire engine rebuilt to stock with a new OEM carb. I can't get her to idle smooth and she cuts out on the highway but recovers if I back off the gas. It is killing me. I think I will pick up the emissions manual and start from there. Good Luck. This site is like therapy!!!!
     
  6. brownbag

    brownbag

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    Update:

    Revisited the emissions schematic and found I had two hoses piped incorrectly. Made a huge difference. Unfortunately, the same problem exists when I connect the EGR valve. I'm beginning to suspect the valve itself. For now I'm leaving the EGR disconnected.

    I did cure another headache this weekend - Changed the fuel filter and my cold start problem went away.
     
  7. bigbrown

    bigbrown

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    idea

    i had the exact same problem. i bought mine with the egr disconnected. after installing new egr, vaccuum lines and rerouting the improperly routed ones, it got better but still would barely go in first gear. you may have already done it, but for me the stupid 8 dollar pcv valve was the culprit. it runs great now and i'm getting 15mpg with 250k. just double checking you didn't miss the obvious. don't sell it. i actually got to take it off road for the first time ever. had to winch my brothers wrangler out of the mud three times! amazing rig.
     
  8. flowman

    flowman

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    I'm jumping in w/ a "me too" on this thread too....I'm fighting the same thing. Mine got worse after replacing all the vac hoses, but I had a bad VSV and BVSV, so I swapped those. Timing was off, so I reset that. Still have loose PCV grommet and hoses and a broken spark plug wire (my bad). I thought the timing fix last night had fixed all the problems when I drove in this AM, but then I realized I had the choke out to the first stop...when I pushed it in the hesitation started. I have the emissions manual and it looks like it has a test for every component--just gonna work my way through it.

    At least now i know how to time it :)
     
  9. dd113

    dd113

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    Steve, is your timing at stock or advanced? If at stock, advance it until it pings then back off a touch.
     
  10. flowman

    flowman

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    It's at stock 8* now, I'll play with it. After replacing all the bad components I figured it was a bit "off-ttune".

    :beer: David!
     
  11. swank60

    swank60

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    As for the EGR problem, it seems like I've read that sevral owners have had the ERG pipe spring a leak. If the plumbing or the flexible tube has a small leak in it, it'll cause your rough idle and vac loss. Try spraying it all down with carb cleaner and look for the bubbles or a chance in the idle (will probably have the same effect a leaking manifold/carb connection would have).

    Good luck with that.