egr problem - i think (1 Viewer)

[hward1]

Hey just solved a long time bucking issue when cold and loss of power -- all i did was the golf tee trick with the egr modulator -- no more bucking when it was cold and a lot more power i didnt know i had been missing --- will see if i have the dieseling thing happen after i run it tomorrow == what should i do now to fix the real problem -

 

[hward1]

now in 4th gear when i put it under load it spark knocks - still dieseling when i shut down but only sometimes but not as bad

 

[hward1]

wanted to add its a 87 fj60 all original full toyota parts tune up - timing adjusted on bee bee - valves adjusted -- sprayed carb spray today around carb gaskets, manifold area - i noticed when i sprayed it on the small black piece that 2 vacuum hoses go into it that it bogged down more -- dont know what that piece is or does all i noticed was it started to bog down a little more -- engine idle never increased when i sprayed the area

 

[hward1]

anyone with some ideas to go from here - also have all new oem hoses replaced - vsv replaced by carb that was bad - new oem thermostat - carb was rebuilt when i got it but nothing was dialed in to specs i still need to adjust the fuel mixture i havent done that yet - manifold was replaced by the previous owner - they are black smut around the mufler area where it seals where someone welded it --

 

[hward1]

fixed the dieseling problem -- new oem spark plug gap on all plugs were off -- reset to .031 and no more dieseling -- so if anyone is having this problem check that out may help

now in 4th gear when i put it under load it spark knocks - still dieseling when i shut down but only sometimes but not as bad

 

[haryv]

time to clean the sticking egr port!or repair secondary ignition

 

[LAMBCRUSHER]

the knock is cause it has an advance curve for use w/ egr. w/o it, there will be too much vacuum advance. try retarding base timing a bit till you get the egr worked out. It may be an egr modulator problem, or a bad egr valve

 

[hward1]

if i desmog will all this go away

the knock is cause it has an advance curve for use w/ egr. w/o it, there will be too much vacuum advance. try retarding base timing a bit till you get the egr worked out. It may be an egr modulator problem, or a bad egr valve

 

[Pighead]

if i desmog will all this go away

My 2F is about as de-smogged as a 2F can get. No pinging.

 

[hward1]

well its back adjusted the carb again increased the idle and the mixture again now its back along with pinging ----- so now i will go back and retard the timing and see if that helps

fixed the dieseling problem -- new oem spark plug gap on all plugs were off -- reset to .031 and no more dieseling -- so if anyone is having this problem check that out may help

 

[NM Frontier]

I can't add anything new here but keep us posted on your findings. I have just finished doing much of what you have but chasing a different issue. I always like to see how other problems are solved for future reference.

 

[LAMBCRUSHER]

if i desmog will all this go away

no. a desmog is usually when you have to slo the advance IFUC. post a picture of where your lines are coming from/going to regarding the vacuum advance. you could maybe be pulling from the wrong source giving too much vacuum to dizzy/or at inappropriate times.....

 

[hward1]

ok i will post a pic

 

[hward1]

update: will need a pic to add -- but after removing the complete smog system found a few things causing the power problems -

one - of the main smog hoses going into a metal air rail pipe was completely rusted out but you couldnt tell until i pulled on the hose and it just broke off from rust where it meets the metal part ---

second - on the diagram (ABV) where all the large emission hoses go into - was completely bloked off with sut where one of the hoses goes into - never would have seen this if not trying to remove the large smog hose -- (the hoses that go to the smog pump)