EGR nut removal (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Nov 19, 2005
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98
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550
Location
Pasadena, CA
Anyone have any tips on removing the nuts for the EGR Valve? especially the lower one? I seem to have a hard time getting much leverage in such a tight space....

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you can cut a wrench to get in there, or I've put it back together twice with an adjustable wrench, one small turn at a time, its a total PITA
 
If you are doing a desmog you could take the whole egr system out in one shot, Its a lot easier than trying to disassemble all of those couplings.
 
Doing a desmog or not, pull that stuff out as one piece and then disassemble from there. It's a lot easier to get to the two bolts that hold the EGR cooler on.

The nut that gave me hell was the one at the J-tube connection to the cooler, number 27 above. Had to cut the pipe at the nut and throw a impact wrench on there.
 
Unfortunately I live in california, so I need to keep the spaghetti monster on the truck.

I just put on a new J pipe gasket, so if possible I want to avoid taking the whole assembly off...

I understand the cut wrench for the top nut and the one by the cooler, but any tips on taking the nut right below the EGR valve that you have to turn horizontally?

I'm pretty sure the EGR valve is my trouble spot.. and have a spare to swap out.
 
Lots of Kroil or PB Blaster and then some Heat.

Dynosoar:zilla:
 
I would remove it, because you don't know how frozen it is. I recently replaced my J-pipe with the stainless one for SOR. I was looking for a 36mm stubby wrench. I found these "farmers" wrenches at Harbor Freight. The price for the set is cheaper than a "real" 36mm that would then have to be cut down...

15 Piece Metric Service Wrench Set
 
I'd remove the whole assembly as well. A new J-tube gasket is cheaper than a stripped nut or fractured knuckle. Those parts attached to the EGR cooler can be REALLY tough to remove- I had trouble when mine was on the vice and I was using a huge pipe wrench.
 
thanks for the tips guys.. will let you know if I get it off.
:beer:
 

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