EGR Issues.... and duct tape

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Well I have been battling this EGR issue for the past week. Yesterday I finally had enough. I replaced all the vacuum hoses and other stuff. Last night I pulled the EGR to inspect and clean.

I dont have any photo's... but I can tell you this. The rubber diaphragm was melted in several places. So being I dont have the money to replace the part I decided to try and fix it. Maybe it will last long enough to allow me to save up and buy one.

Anyway I peeled the crimped edge along the housing where it is located. Pulled it open. Cleaned everything up. And well.... I have this brand new roll of gorilla tape... and that stuff has not let me down yet for other projects... so I decided wtf... why not... so I made a membrane out of duct tape and put everything back together.

Ok... now I know I am going to jinx myself... but so far the check engine lamp has not come on... and I hope it stays that way.
 

NLXTACY

Wits' End
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interesting.....

Its a good interesting. I guess I'm just curious if its a countdown or a solution.
 
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temporary solution.... but then again... lol... who knows... i wonder if it would last until I can get a diesel in this truck. hmmmmmmm:cheers:
 
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I did a temporary repaired on the EGR Valve.

The valve, or plunger, is controlled by the vacuum membrane on the top of the EGR valve assembly. The membrane it's self is made of a thin layer of rubber that is resistant to oil, gas, etc... On mine the membrane its self was ruptured.

The egr membrane is housed in that metal disc ontop of the EGR valve assembly. The EGR Temp sensor is bolted on the side of the EGR valve housing.

The only way to get to the membrane is to peal back the crimp around the vacuum housing. It is a full circle crimp. I was able to go full circle in about 15 minutes.

After pealing the metal back far enough to open the vacuum housing. I pulled the top off exposing the EGR plunger vacuum membrane. The spring will do the jack-n-the box effect when you open the housing.

There are two metal disc's that the rubber membrane is sandwiched between. The bottom of this there is a rod sticking up under neath. That is the valve (plunger) neck. You can gently pry up under neath the center of the lower disc and pop it off the rod.

You can now see the three screws that hold the housing onto the EGR valve housing.

The membrane assembly is held together by a nut and bolt. The bottom is an 8mm and the top is 10mm. After you take the assembly apart you can see the entire rubber membrane.

Pull off the membrane. Clean everything up as well as the lower vacuum housing.

Now this is what I did. I have the wide roll of Gorilla Duct Tape. This is some high quality duct tape. I took two strips about 5 to 6 inchs long. Then I over lapped them about a third of an inch over one another. This gave me a nice clean sheet to work with. I placed the sheet over the bottom disc and then opened the center up so the bolt would go through. I placed the top metal disc on and bolted everything together.

I then placed a wood dowl inside the egr valve housing and pushed the plunger up. By now you have noticed the membrane assembly's bolt has a hole in it. That is where the rod plugs in. I put that onto the rod. Then pressed down. Then I centered the membrane assembly level with the lower housings lip and pressed the duct tape down onto it and trimmed the excess tape.

I put the top of the housing back on and began to crimp the edges. I did this in stages. Holding the two halves together I crimped it in quarters. Then finished the crimping full circle.

Now its all back together and ready to be tested. A vacuum hose plugged into the top housing and apply vacuum and check to leak down. Which is pretty much going to be nothing if done right. Or nothing at all. Mine did not leak as there really isnt a whole lot of vacuum applied. I mean its not being sucked down to atmospheric pressure.

I then installed the part and so far it has been working very well. I hope it stays that way. When I finally get a new EGR valve assembly I might just check it in the truck and see how long this fix works.

Sorry I did not take any photo's. The digital camera battery had to be recharged.
 
Last edited:
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What you described is the EGR modulator, not the EGR valve.



The EGR temp sensor is in the intake manifold, not on the side of the EGR valve or the EGR modulator.

-B-
Kinda lost here. Maybe you can explain where I went wrong.



#65 = EGR Modulator

#7 = EGR Valve

#75 = EGR Sensor




#7 -EGR Valve-
Being I just recently had this part off the engine and open. There is a valve inside the housing of this part. It looks very similar to an intake/exhaust valve on the head. Its only purpose is to open and close to let in or keep out exhaust gases. That valve has a rod. That rod is connected to the vacuum diaphragm. When vacuum is applied the diaphragm moves up. Being connected to the EGR Valve stem, it also rises up and opens the egr valve port allowing exhaust gases to enter the egr valve body. When vacuum is continually applied it keeps the valve open. When vacuum is stopped is closes the valve.

http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h32.pdf
 
Last edited:

Beowulf

 
 
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A picture is worth a thousand words. :D

You were correct about your fixes to the EGR valve but that was not clear to me from your verbal description. This picture is confusing to me:


The EGR temp sensor is in the intake on the later models, directly across from the EGR valve. I am not sure on your model. The picture where you labeled the EGR Modulator and EGR valve is a later model and you can see the temp sensor in the intake. Maybe a picture of your 94 EGR valve with temp sensor would clear things up.

-B-
 
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A picture is worth a thousand words. :D

You were correct about your fixes to the EGR valve but that was not clear to me from your verbal description. This picture is confusing to me:


The EGR temp sensor is in the intake on the later models, directly across from the EGR valve. I am not sure on your model. The picture where you labeled the EGR Modulator and EGR valve is a later model and you can see the temp sensor in the intake. Maybe a picture of your 94 EGR valve with temp sensor would clear things up.

-B-
Yeah the EGR Temp Sensor screws into that port.

Right next to the EGR valve on the plenum (intake) there is an air intake temp sensor.
 
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The rubber membrane is not affected by oil, gas, etc... How about the Gorilla Tape, I've seen duct tape turn to goo under the hood of my lc. Also heat melts duct tape.
 
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How about a bicyle tube?
An inner tube was my first choice. But being it was late at night and I live in the middle of no where in a town with a population of less then 900 people... haha... and the nearest big city is well over an hours drive.... the gorilla tape it was.... items used under the hood need to withstand a lot of factors which includes petroleum products. So the rubber used in the diaphragm is the same rubber I see used in other items that come in contact with oil.

The inner tube in my opinion would have been my first choice if I had access to one. And I think it would have been a long term solution buying a lot more time then duct tape. :cheers:
 
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Why not just remove the egr valve and associated plumbing, electronics, etc...? Do you have emission checks there?
 
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no emissions here.... still a bit paranoid taking them off this engine being i have little experience with it. And not sure if it will throw any codes or have any issues with performance and fuel economy. not tha this is a cornucopia of mpg.
 
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Well I never touched the EGR. The duct tape still works. Hot as all hell over here during the summer. Truck went on some decent trips and worked fine. No issues other then spark plug wires.

With all my experience with using duct tape for emergencies under the hood, it always seems to cause the adhesive to turn to molten state and making a mess. Same with the cheap assed vinyl electric tape. Anyway the gorilla tape seemed to hold. Same on my other truck as I used some around the air cleaner intake tubes.

I think I am going to remove the egr system and anything else I can get away with as I do not have smog in my area.

What can I remove safely without causing something bad to happen? :D


1994 FZJ80
 
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There are a couple of good threads on ditching the PAIR system. Other than that, there's really not a lot more to desmog.
 
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