ECU - Door Locker - Key issue question (1 Viewer)

[spressomon]

Ok...I just found out today my bosses friend has a '99 LC and was at South Lake Tahoe on Friday when the master key broke in two as she tried to start it...as they often do . She couldn't get it started...even with the plastic 'fob' portion of the master key in the cabin. So she had it towed to a mechanic there. Toyota sent a new ECU and key no charge (!)...but now they say the door lock can't be configured to work with the new ECU...and they want $750 for the door lock mechanism and install.

How do you program a matching key and ECU to the door lock or is this apart of the key programming procedure? Sounds like to me they don't know the programming sequence to sync the auto door lock to the ECU. OBTW: The broken plastic fob will, even though it is broken from the metal key portion, still unlock/lock the door.

 

[slimbuddha]

When I bought my vehicle, it came with two masters. One of them was broken the same way, key and fob. I simply got a new shell, had the key cut, and put the "fob" in the new shell. I also ordered a third master w/remote features, and programmed it to work.

I imagine all she needs to do is get a new shell, and put the remote fob into the new shell and get it keyed. Then, follow the directions to get it to recognize the remote.

I seem to remember a separate set of instructions for the truck to learn the new key as a "master", and a separate set to have it learn the "remote."

I'll try to find the remote instructions.

 

[slimbuddha]

Ok, I found them. I didn't realize i had saved a soft copy. Iif they are saying it can't be programmed, I would assume it is because they don't know how. Even if the ECU changed,I doubt they would take this feature away.

1. Start with key out of the ignition, driver door is open (all others closed), and driver door is unlocked.
2. Insert key into the ignition (don’t turn it) and pull it out
3. Perform these steps within 40 seconds:
a. Using the power lock switch on the driver’s door, perform 5 lock/unlock cycles with lock.
Use an even pace and try to go about one cycle per second. 1 cycle = 1 lock and 1 unlock)
b. Close, then open driver’s door.

4. Perform these steps within 40 seconds:
a. Using the power lock switch on the driver’s door, perform 5 lock/unlock cycles starting
with lock.

Use an even pace and try to go about one cycle per second. (1 cycle = 1 lock and 1unlock)

b. Insert the key in the ignition cylinder.
c. Turn the ignition to ON (as far as you can without cranking the engine) then back to OFF
d. Remove the key from the ignition.

5. Within 3 seconds, the power door locks should cycle automatically indicating successful entry
into programming mode. Return to step 1 if the locks do not cycle at this point.

6. Perform these steps within 40 seconds:
a. Press the lock and unlock buttons on the transmitter simultaneously for 1 second.
b. Immediately after letting go of the lock and unlock buttons, hit the lock button by itself and hold for 2 seconds. Within 3 seconds, the door locks should cycle once indicating successful programming.

If the door locks don’t cycle, or cycle twice, repeat steps a and b-your remote has not
been accepted.
c. Repeat steps a and b in step 6 for each new transmitter.

7. Close driver door.

 

[Campfire]

Hey Dan, I use to order replacement door cylinders all the time and called a mobile locksmith that would come out and rekey the door cylinders for about $40 each. I would start calling around up there. Somebody has to do it for a city that size. If not, let me know and I'll find one in Sacramento for you.

 

[spressomon]

Hey Dan, I use to order replacement door cylinders all the time and called a mobile locksmith that would come out and rekey the door cylinders for about $40 each. I would start calling around up there. Somebody has to do it for a city that size. If not, let me know and I'll find one in Sacramento for you.

She can unlock the DS door manually and start the LC with her new key and new ECU. However the door lock/unlock remote feature of the new key will not "talk" to the door lock actuator. Having never experienced replacement of the ECU I don't know what programming might be involved to get the new ECU, new key and old lock actuator to communicate together (other than the programming procedure used to program a new key...). So...when an ECU is replaced is there a separate programming sequence that must be used, aside from the key programming sequence, to get the ECU, key fob and electric door lock actuator to talk?


Slimbuddha: I just read your instructions...thank you! I'll try your sequence. At first glance last night...after a couple brews...I thought your instructions were for programming a new key...sorry!!!

I'll let you know how it turns out...

 

[slimbuddha]

any luck?

 

[spressomon]

any luck?

She's going to retrieve her LC today or tomorrow from the mechanic...then I'll try your programming sequence and report back. Hopefully me/you can save her the $750 the mechanic wants to install a new door lock actuator!

 

[spressomon]

Ok, I found them. I didn't realize i had saved a soft copy. Iif they are saying it can't be programmed, I would assume it is because they don't know how. Even if the ECU changed,I doubt they would take this feature away.

1. Start with key out of the ignition, driver door is open (all others closed), and driver door is unlocked.
2. Insert key into the ignition (don’t turn it) and pull it out
3. Perform these steps within 40 seconds:
a. Using the power lock switch on the driver’s door, perform 5 lock/unlock cycles with lock.
Use an even pace and try to go about one cycle per second. 1 cycle = 1 lock and 1 unlock)
b. Close, then open driver’s door.

4. Perform these steps within 40 seconds:
a. Using the power lock switch on the driver’s door, perform 5 lock/unlock cycles starting
with lock.

Use an even pace and try to go about one cycle per second. (1 cycle = 1 lock and 1unlock)

b. Insert the key in the ignition cylinder.
c. Turn the ignition to ON (as far as you can without cranking the engine) then back to OFF
d. Remove the key from the ignition.

5. Within 3 seconds, the power door locks should cycle automatically indicating successful entry
into programming mode. Return to step 1 if the locks do not cycle at this point.

6. Perform these steps within 40 seconds:
a. Press the lock and unlock buttons on the transmitter simultaneously for 1 second.
b. Immediately after letting go of the lock and unlock buttons, hit the lock button by itself and hold for 2 seconds. Within 3 seconds, the door locks should cycle once indicating successful programming.

If the door locks don’t cycle, or cycle twice, repeat steps a and b-your remote has not
been accepted.
c. Repeat steps a and b in step 6 for each new transmitter.

7. Close driver door.

Ok...she finally brought her LC to me. I programmed as you instructed above and the the door locks automatically cycled apart of the programming sequence. But the new key and ECU would still not activate the lock actuator after programming completion (even though the first time through resulted in the proper auto cycling of the door locks apart of the programming instructions above). I went through the programming cycle twice more but then the locks would not cycle through apart of the programming effort (#5.).

I kept cycling the driver's side lock manually and eventually got it to only facilitate a 1/2 lock (lock button on DS door ended up 1/2 between the locked and unlocked position)...until finally the DS lock button would not do anything. Let it rest and then it sorta worked ok by manually locking the doors. So the actuator mechanism seems like it may need to be lubed for lack of a better analysis.

FYI: Her old key fob will unlock by pressing the unlock button on the fob...but won't lock it!

I'm going to take the door trim off so I can see what the actuator is doing/looks like this weekend...

Not sure if replacing the actuator, like the mechanic wanted to do, will solve her problem...

 

[slimbuddha]

Not sure if you have checked this or not, but could it be the battery? I've seen a few discussions here where the locks were the first thing causing problems when the battery was on its way out.

Correct me if I am wrong here, but isn't there an actuator on each door (5 total). If one was going out, wouldn't the rest work?

 

[100 TD]

I programmed as you instructed above and the the door locks automatically cycled apart of the programming sequence.

So therefore you have proved that the door lock actuators actually lock and unlock correctly, so you should not need to pull them apart or lube them.
I doubt replacing the door lock mechanism will do anything as they are already working. However, does the wireless door control have a seperate ECU. If so then this may be a problem.

FYI: Her old key fob will unlock by pressing the unlock button on the fob...but won't lock it!

So there's maybe a conflict going on here?
The old key unlocks the doors, so therefore it's frequency is still registered in the ECU. But it doesn't lock, so the lock frequency is not registered in the ECU?
I would try the programming sequence again and try to re-register the old key for lock and unlock and see if the ECU will accept it.
A tough one to nut out, good luck!

 

[spressomon]

I'm going to get in it again on Sunday for another go. However went through 6-different programming sequences...thinking the cycle time of pressing the door lock button 5-times in a row was too long or too short...but nothing worked.

Battery seems fine...I didn't have a volt meter as she stopped by my office. But I immediately thought of the battery when the manual lock started sticking...but the starter turned over normally.

 

[spressomon]

Went another round with this today. I was going "rewrite" the key to lock actuator ECU (slightly different programming process than the "add" programming sequence posted by slimbuddha above)...but could not get into programming mode no matter what.

So I ended up just taking the chip out of her original key...installed it into the new fob...and reprogrammed the key to the main ECU and it functions fine (remote lock and starting functions). But I'm still perplexed why I could not get back into the programming mode after getting there once?!

Thanks for everyone's help!

 

[slimbuddha]

Well, at least it didn't cost $750 to fix it. Did your friend at least bring over a sixer?

 

[spressomon]

Well, at least it didn't cost $750 to fix it. Did your friend at least bring over a sixer?

She's going to take us out to dinner!

 

[musthave]

Thread revival

Instructions are spot on, perfect.

My question, on a 2000 cruiser, how do you said it to open all of the doors if you press the unlock twice? I can hook it to tech stream if that is how it’s done. Anybody know?

 

[Mauser]

Thread revival

Instructions are spot on, perfect.

My question, on a 2000 cruiser, how do you said it to open all of the doors if you press the unlock twice? I can hook it to tech stream if that is how it’s done. Anybody know?

Pretty sure it is done with Techstream.