Ebrake cable rigging

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Spook50

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Snatch_Block_Rigged.jpg


So here's how I rigged my brake cable so far. I say so far because I'm not too happy with how well it's working. I ground off the stops on the calipers like Calfj60 suggested, and it made a big improvement in pedal travle for setting the brake, but my own design has limitations that I didn't quite think through.

I'm able to set the brake completely at about 8-9 clicks up on the handle (factory spec for the drum ebrake), but when I release the ebrake, the caliper with the stronger spring (right side in this case) pulls the cable and keeps pressure against left's mechanism, causing those pads to still press against the rotors quite a bit. My original intention was that using the snatch block would allow for uneven pad wear and put equal tension on the calipers when set. I'm sure it does, but due to the uneven way it's releasing, I'm probably putting way more wear than I should be on the left side pads. I'm going to do some more research and figure out a better way to rig the cables that'll allow for easy adjustment and firm, solid setting of the brakes. I'm kind of dissapointed that this method didn't work out, because it sure came out looking clean and almost professional.

Another problem I have is the way I routed the Eldo cables. I'll be running them along the axle when I redo it, so that I can avoid having the cables anywhere near the exhaust, like so:

Cable_Against_Tailpipe.jpg
 
So is the answer to replace both springs with equal new ones?

I thought the snatch block would be a good idea for running naked cables like you & Tapage, but I really like the setup in the pics on your other thread.
 
Tinker said:
So is the answer to replace both springs with equal new ones?

I thought the snatch block would be a good idea for running naked cables like you & Tapage, but I really like the setup in the pics on your other thread.

Which one?
 
pplkook's in "Rear disc impressions". No matter what, the geometry of your driveline changes relative to the naked cables. Cable housings minimize that. Your problems with the mis-matched springs could persist if you went to a similar setup.

As a 2nd-generation engineer friend once told me "fix what you know is wrong 1st. Stop theorizing how it can't produce the results you're seeing." In other words, get a matched pair of springs.

Did you get the swages from a sailboat store?
 
Tinker said:
pplkook's in "Rear disc impressions". No matter what, the geometry of your driveline changes relative to the naked cables. Cable housings minimize that. Your problems with the mis-matched springs could persist if you went to a similar setup.

As a 2nd-generation engineer friend once told me "fix what you know is wrong 1st. Stop theorizing how it can't produce the results you're seeing." In other words, get a matched pair of springs.

Did you get the swages from a sailboat store?

Yeah, I got all the supplies from West Marine. The snatch block is rated at 1000 lbs working load, and tested to a breaking point of 2000 lbs. Not bad for a little piece of metal with a plastic pulley!

I'm going to check the springs next time I have it apart to make sure if they really are mismatched or not. They're pretty stout springs, so I kinda doubt they are, but it's a good place to start. I've found another option for rigging too that'll allow for individual adjustability with each cable. I just hope I didn't cut the cables too short for it when I rigged what I've got now.
 
Tinker said:
pplkook's in "Rear disc impressions". No matter what, the geometry of your driveline changes relative to the naked cables. Cable housings minimize that.

Tha't the issue .. I have SO with good flex .. and my e -brake setup is afected with the load and flex situations ..

I also thought the pplkook's setup are the best .. and was my idea, but with out custom cable providers here are more dificult to me.
 
Tapage said:
Tha't the issue .. I have SO with good flex .. and my e -brake setup is afected with the load and flex situations ..

I also thought the pplkook's setup are the best .. and was my idea, but with out custom cable providers here are more dificult to me.

Yeah there's nothing here either. I can order ebrake rigging components from a local hot rod shop, and all the nessecary stuff for the actual cable rigging from West Marine, but I can't go anywhere to have custom cables made.
 
Glad to hear that grinding the stops made some sort of difference....thought is was just wishful thinking but it worked for me:)
 
Talking to a guy at a local hot rod shop, he had an ebrake rigging kit by a company called Lokar that he sells for $105.00 that I'll try out. The cables have the ball ends, and instead of pushing the cable housings on to the ebrake cable brackets on the calipers, they are threaded and held on by a nut (which would make removal for pad changes a great deal easier if you need to remove the cable.

The way it's rigged is you route the housing how you want it, cut it to length, then feed the cable through and cut that to length, and it's held into a bracket by two set screws, which is in turn connected to a bracket you could secure to your crossmember, then swage a threaded fitting onto the end of your factory cable (that's connected to the handle) and then you'd be able to adjust at the handle and where the caliper cables connect to the bracket. Seems like a really smart way to go. Much better than my original plan.

pplkook, your bracket looks similar to the Lokar kit I was looking at. Actually, it looks like another one of their kits.
 
Lokar has great stuff - I have their gas & brake pedals & am lusting over a Genny shifter & indicator for my 4L60E.
 
controlcables.com brake cables,brackets good prices
 
rapovt said:
controlcables.com brake cables,brackets good prices

Woouu nice .. litle advance ..

B-EZ100.jpg


now only the cables .. :D
 
Spook50 said:
Talking to a guy at a local hot rod shop, he had an ebrake rigging kit by a company called Lokar that he sells for $105.00 that I'll try out. The cables have the ball ends, and instead of pushing the cable housings on to the ebrake cable brackets on the calipers, they are threaded and held on by a nut (which would make removal for pad changes a great deal easier if you need to remove the cable.

website to see the stuff . ? the kit come with cables or something else . ? please let me know ..
 
Tapage -
http://www.lokar.com/

pplkook's look like Controlcable's e-brake junction bracket, but I can't find plain cable/housing on their site. pplkook says they were from Custom Cables as on the TSM site.

Lokar says their EC-80FU cables will fit the Eldo rear brakes - the housings are 8' & the cables are 9' each. Jeg's has them part # 625-EC-80FU $87.99.

Maybe Spook will be the guinea pig - he seems to like that!
 
Tinker said:
Maybe Spook will be the guinea pig - he seems to like that!

Yes there does seem to be a trend there...
 
Spook -
Around here it's easy to tell the pioneers.

They're the ones with the arrows in their backs.
 
Tinker said:
Tapage -
http://www.lokar.com/

pplkook's look like Controlcable's e-brake junction bracket, but I can't find plain cable/housing on their site. pplkook says they were from Custom Cables as on the TSM site.

Lokar says their EC-80FU cables will fit the Eldo rear brakes - the housings are 8' & the cables are 9' each. Jeg's has them part # 625-EC-80FU $87.99.

Maybe Spook will be the guinea pig - he seems to like that!

Tinker .. dude .. that's the info that I need .. ! thanks .. thanks a lots .. !

I sure I'm gonna buy those ones . :D

You say Jeg's has them .. where to locate Jeg's . ? ( link .. contact # .. ? )
 

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