eatSleepWoof gets a 6x12

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Finished the door trim.



Trimmed passenger side window.



Trimmed driver side window.


Installed trim between the vertical walls and ceiling. A million angles/curves to account for in every piece, but got it done.






Sprayed two coats of Varathane Diamond Finish on all walls and ceiling.






Flooring is up next!
Flooring is in! Vinyl plank, 10mm, waterproof.

The 4 packages of flooring each had about 50% nice, dark coloured planks, and 50% that are lighter, greyer, and less appealing. I used the nice planks in the area that'll be visible, and the other planks in areas that will be covered up with cabinetry. I wanted the entire floor covered (and not just the visible areas) because of the waterproofing element of this flooring; should anything ever leak, the planks will minimize water intrusion. It'll also be nice to see proper floors when opening cabinets, drawers, etc.





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What's the weight increase so far?
What's the weight increase so far?
No idea at this point. Will weigh it eventually!

Pretty sure I’ll need to upgrade to a heavier duty axle when it’s all done.
Framed-in the water tanks. 170L fresh water (bottom) and 90L gray water. Framing is screwed to studs, walls and floor, while the tanks are sandwiched-in between the framing and walls.


Started on the plumbing using 3/4" PEX.


Made the box containing water fixtures for the driver's side access panel. Finished in Herculiner (truck-bed liner).


Plumbing progress: drains for both tanks are routed outside (bottom) of the trailer, fresh water tank intake connected, exterior shower connected. Also ran 12mm bolts through the bottom of the water tank framing, to the exterior, and secured with nylocks. Roughed-in insulation for the access panel.


Framing for the batteries. The three tie-downs are bolted through the floor with 1/4", stainless bolts.


Batteries are secured with a ratchet strap.


Started kitchen cabinet work.


More progress on the cabinetry, and routed the propane hose with various splitters. One propane line runs to the water heater, another will protrude through the kitchen countertop for a camping stove hookup, and the final line runs to the passenger's side access hatch (also for a camping stove hookup).


We were on vacation for a few weeks, so progress has been slow.

Made a panel to hold all electrical components and mounted it above the batteries. Panel is bolted in and secured with four M6 star-knobs, so that it can be removed without tools in a pinch. Plenty of space below for access to the batteries.


The Renogy battery monitor conveniently shows current charge, incoming/outgoing amperage, and projections for either battery depletion or full charge, depending on whether the battery is being charged or used. Great piece of kit!


Also removed the second switch panel as I realized it's completely unnecessary. Even this panel will have two unused switches.


Made a cable for the NOCO 10 Genius charger to work with my external Anderson connector. This connector can be used to charge the battery via a portable charger (like my NOCO), an external solar setup, a DC/DC charger, or any other source of electricity. The NOCO charger puts in 10amps as advertised.


A small preview of things to come. First half of the kitchen countertop is cut, and mocked up the sink & faucet. Need to cut the second half, join them, finish with sealer, set threaded inserts for bolting in/to the kitchen, etc.


Countertop is in place! Material is 1.5"-thick bamboo, which I stained and finished. It's bolted down with about 6-7 M6 bolts, and screwed down with an additional 6-7 screws.

Water pump is a beast. Stronger pressure than what I have at home.


Sink is 15x17" - a fair bit larger than what we had in our previous travel trailer; it's also deeper, and has a very deep food-catch basket. It's a much nicer option than what's commonly found in trailers, and will be plumbed shortly.

I'll make some sort of fixture to secure the stove hookup so that those fittings aren't bouncing around in transit (and destroying the countertop). With time I'll also build a variety of cabinets/storage nooks all around, above the countertop.




Also made some changes to the sleeping plans. Over the course of the build we've changed the plans for this about a dozen times, but have finally settled on a setup that will actually work for us. We will not do the previously-planned staggered bunk-bed layout, but will instead have a north-south, queen bed in the main sleeping area, and an east-west bunk above it, at the far end. Fridge will live on a slider underneath the bed.
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Split the pump intake line with a Wye and two valves. The second intake hose can be placed into a container of RV antifreeze for easy winterization.


Leak-tested the fittings in the external, driver-side access hatch, then insulated and finished it.



Built four drawers and two access panels (one for the pump & plumbing, other for the electrical section). Drawers are on full-extension, soft-close slides.


The two top, left & right drawers are on 22" slides, the other two on 16" ones.


Paint + drawer pulls coming in the next few days...
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My Lance Camper had that valve setup off the water tank which was my experience with RV's Not winterizing correctly can be a very expensive mistake as you probably know. I'm impressed with your attention to details as you set this trailer up. You're using your experience with other trailers to avoid the bad stuff and make this trailer just right for you. Keep up the good work. I think most of us that are watching enjoy your updates - I do!👍
Kitchen is done!

Cabinetry painted, drawers sprayed with protective finish, silicone applied inside drawers, along all cabinetry seams, etc., and drawer pulls installed.



What are your plans for kitchen gray water? An out door shower usually just drains on to ground with little to no problems, but the kitchen with food prep and dish cleaning can be different. Just curious because I checked your build plans back in your 1st post and I didn't see it mentioned.
What are your plans for kitchen gray water? An out door shower usually just drains on to ground with little to no problems, but the kitchen with food prep and dish cleaning can be different. Just curious because I checked your build plans back in your 1st post and I didn't see it mentioned.
There's a 90L grey water tank right above the fresh water. Both drain down below the trailer, and both have valves. I'll use the grey water tank when in official parks and such.
Framed the bed area using 2x4s which are half-lap jointed everywhere. The two vertical 3/4" plywood supports are recessed into their respective joints, and screwed to the floor. These
will serve as the walls for the future fridge slider.

The bed area is 65 1/4" wide and 79 1/2" long; larger than a residential queen bed, and nearly king-size!



Ran pipe for the heating output; all components are glued together. The heat now comes out at the foot of the bed, below the bottom drawer. This position will allow some hot air to rise into the kitchen cabinets, ensuring that the water tanks and pipes are adequately heated.


Moved the trailer outside, installed the MaxxAir fan, installed original wheels, installed four 7500lb stabilizers.

The fan is almost imperceptible at low speed, and can move a lot of air when needed.




Got the trailer on the scales. These scales give weight by axle, so I first came in with the LX (tow vehicle) and weighed each axle, then hooked up the trailer and weighed each axle again.

Weights (as of right now):
- Trailer axle: 2711lb
- Tongue weight: 374lb
- Total: 3085lb

That is way, way lower than I anticipated, and is just about perfect as far as weight distribution goes.

I'm guessing I have about 300-400lbs of weight to add before the build is complete, which will still keep the trailer under the original GVWR dry. I am very happy with these numbers! I will still likely either swap to a single 5000lb axle, or dual 3500lb axles, but this means there's no immediate urgency to do so.

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