Eaton fan clutch mod (1 Viewer)

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Jan 24, 2011
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Mobile, AL
Has anyone done the fan clutch mod to an eaton fan clutch and thought that the 20,000 was too thick. I did it and it seems that it is always pulling. So much so that it feels like I have a substantial loss of power. I borrowed a friends scan gauge and it never really even got to 200 degrees. I seems like this might be a little overkill as the thermostat doesn't even open till 195. Just want your thoughts.
 
I had too much oil in mine. It was 10 and 20K mix. I ended up taking a small amount out. It runs a little bit warmer now but just right.....so far.
 
I used about 40ml of 20K and ~10Ml of 10K. Mines not engaged all the time unless its 95*+ outside. I'm fine with that as it really helps keep the AC blowing cold at stop lights or long idles. Mines a '97 Eaton.
 
I put 59 mil in mine. Do you think that might be too much? If it is, would that keep it from disengaging?
 
There are two main causes; the most common excessive fluid, second, stuck or leaking valve. 59ml should fit, the key is, was all of the old fluid drained out? On the Eaton, the valve needs to be propped open to get the fluid out of the reservoir.
 
That might be the problem. I held the valve open and let it drain for about 2 hours. Think that might not have been enough time?
 
That might be the problem. I held the valve open and let it drain for about 2 hours. Think that might not have been enough time?

Mine would not have drained completely in 2 hours. I let mine sit overnight and still had some residue to wipe off. I believe heating the unit helps lower the viscosity and aids in drain time. I would follow Tools' recommendations, he is a pretty good authority on the fan clutches among other things.
 
Mine drained for 2 hours, the way Tools said to, in the oven at 200* and wasn't completely drained. I'd say yours was nowhere near drained.
 
i drained mine for a few days with the valve propped open.
And I used the 15k cst fluid in mine. first time I added too much and my temps never went above 180 so i drained a bit out and now in the 100 plus degree heat with the AC on I get a high of 205-207.

works great now.
good luck
 
i drained mine for a few days with the valve propped open.
And I used the 15k cst fluid in mine. first time I added too much and my temps never went above 180 so i drained a bit out and now in the 100 plus degree heat with the AC on I get a high of 205-207.


I'd kill for 180!!!!!!!!
 
I used about 40ml of 20K and ~10Ml of 10K. Mines not engaged all the time unless its 95*+ outside. I'm fine with that as it really helps keep the AC blowing cold at stop lights or long idles. Mines a '97 Eaton.

Mine drained for 2 hours, the way Tools said to, in the oven at 200* and wasn't completely drained. I'd say yours was nowhere near drained.
I forgot to add that with ambient temps of 95-100* mine stays between 184-195 unless stationary in the sun then I'll hit 204-205.
 
I have 2 questions hoping to get some help with. Pretty sure I have the Eaton from what I've read but have not yet pulled it. Build date is 10/95.

Putzing around the site (south Texas) I need to spend quite a bit of time idling or running 25-35 mph. I've noticed that it doesn't take but about 30 minutes of this to see 212 on the Ultra-Gauge. When I see that temperature I either park it or get out on the road to get up to 60 mph or so to get the temperature back down to the 190s where it usually stays on the highway. I always think "next time" I'm going to see how high it will go, but I need it every day so haven't summoned the guts to experiment. I don't recall ever hearing the fan "kick on". Should refreshing the fluid allow me to idle/go slow for a few hours without the temp creeping up?

Secondly, this is my only vehicle so getting my ducks in a row to do this in a 24 hour period. I've got 2 oz of the 15k cst fluid on the way, couple #3 phillips bits (in case it's not an Eaton), a little impact driver, some PB Blaster, and various Torx internal bits on hand (from pics I'm pretty sure I need the T bits versus the E bits right?). Anyone recall what size T bit is required? I've got up to a 40 so should be covered I'd think but would be a PITA to have to run to the store after I've got it out.

Thanks in advance.
 
I have 2 questions hoping to get some help with. Pretty sure I have the Eaton from what I've read but have not yet pulled it. Build date is 10/95.

Putzing around the site (south Texas) I need to spend quite a bit of time idling or running 25-35 mph. I've noticed that it doesn't take but about 30 minutes of this to see 212 on the Ultra-Gauge. When I see that temperature I either park it or get out on the road to get up to 60 mph or so to get the temperature back down to the 190s where it usually stays on the highway. I always think "next time" I'm going to see how high it will go, but I need it every day so haven't summoned the guts to experiment. I don't recall ever hearing the fan "kick on". Should refreshing the fluid allow me to idle/go slow for a few hours without the temp creeping up?

Secondly, this is my only vehicle so getting my ducks in a row to do this in a 24 hour period. I've got 2 oz of the 15k cst fluid on the way, couple #3 phillips bits (in case it's not an Eaton), a little impact driver, some PB Blaster, and various Torx internal bits on hand (from pics I'm pretty sure I need the T bits versus the E bits right?). Anyone recall what size T bit is required? I've got up to a 40 so should be covered I'd think but would be a PITA to have to run to the store after I've got it out.

Thanks in advance.
It's been quite a while but I think that Eaton clutch has little nuts (10mm?) and not screws. Someone might be able to verify that. Otherwise, sounds like you're good to go.
 
When you are moving slow and the temps are getting too high, just shift down a gear or two to raise the engine RPM, which should improve cooling.
 
It's been quite a while but I think that Eaton clutch has little nuts (10mm?) and not screws. Someone might be able to verify that. Otherwise, sounds like you're good to go.
I'm thinking these (not mine - stole a pic from another thread) are what holds the two halves together? Nuts would be easier - I'll find out when I get there for sure.
1962027
 
When you are moving slow and the temps are getting too high, just shift down a gear or two to raise the engine RPM, which should improve cooling.
Thanks! Gonna try that first.
 

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