Tip for anyone that does your own oil changes: get a Bjowett filter housing with the fumoto valve, a second fumoto valve for the sump, a MotivX screw in funnel for the Toyota, and some vinyl tubing. This configuration makes oils changes sooooo easy and low mess.
Easy oil changes
- Thread starter CharlieS
- Start date
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I know there's a lot of anxiety/hate over the Toyota oil filter housings and oil changes, but I use the supplied plastic drain valve with the OEM filter and I don't see all the angst.
I use a 2 gallon bucket to catch the oil, both from the filter and drain plug. I do the filter first-
I loosen the filter housing so it can "breathe"....therefore emptying the oil faster/smoother. Then I remove the cover plate, put the bucket under the filter housing and use both hands to quickly shove the plastic drain valve up in there quickly. I let it drain while I squirm around, getting some paper towels, opening the O-rings, etc., putting the filter housing adapter back on my 3/8" extension.
Then I snatch the valve out, lay it on a paper towel, then finish removing the filter housing. I remove the filter, put it on or in a plastic bag, pour out the housing more, wipe it with paper towels. I also wipe out of the filter space in the engine. I like to make sure it's all clean. Trust me, at the 200k mile mark, when things still look new, you will appreciate it.
Put a new filter/O-rings on, button it back up. Then drain the pan. Little to no oil spilled, makes the most use of my time on my back, etc. I can do an oil change on a 5.7L engine in less than 30 minutes from the time I get a ramp out, tools, oil bucket, grab a new filter, 2 jugs of oil, funnel, crush washer, etc., and put it all back up. That includes laying there to rest for 5 minutes while I let the (hot) oil drain.
I use a 2 gallon bucket to catch the oil, both from the filter and drain plug. I do the filter first-
I loosen the filter housing so it can "breathe"....therefore emptying the oil faster/smoother. Then I remove the cover plate, put the bucket under the filter housing and use both hands to quickly shove the plastic drain valve up in there quickly. I let it drain while I squirm around, getting some paper towels, opening the O-rings, etc., putting the filter housing adapter back on my 3/8" extension.
Then I snatch the valve out, lay it on a paper towel, then finish removing the filter housing. I remove the filter, put it on or in a plastic bag, pour out the housing more, wipe it with paper towels. I also wipe out of the filter space in the engine. I like to make sure it's all clean. Trust me, at the 200k mile mark, when things still look new, you will appreciate it.
Put a new filter/O-rings on, button it back up. Then drain the pan. Little to no oil spilled, makes the most use of my time on my back, etc. I can do an oil change on a 5.7L engine in less than 30 minutes from the time I get a ramp out, tools, oil bucket, grab a new filter, 2 jugs of oil, funnel, crush washer, etc., and put it all back up. That includes laying there to rest for 5 minutes while I let the (hot) oil drain.
- Thread starter
- #5
I don't have any hate/anxiety, it is just less effort and less mess to do it this way.
I've changed oil for decades on all kinds of vehicles, including multiple Toyota 5.7s. This is hands down the easiest and least messy way I've found to do a proper oil and filter change.
I'm not trying to tell you or anyone else how to do it. Just passing along what I've learned and trying to save others the learning curve.
I've changed oil for decades on all kinds of vehicles, including multiple Toyota 5.7s. This is hands down the easiest and least messy way I've found to do a proper oil and filter change.
I'm not trying to tell you or anyone else how to do it. Just passing along what I've learned and trying to save others the learning curve.
I've appreciated all the tips I have found on this forum related to oil changes (including the tips both of you, CharlieS and Hillbilly Deluxe, just provided above). My free dealership oil changes have all been used, so I just did my first oil change on a 200 series this past weekend, and it was quite a bit messier than it has been on all the other vehicles I've changed in the past.
By the way, in the process of doing this, I found a screw missing from my skid plates--no doubt the fault of the dealership. That's enough for me to resolve to do all the oil changes from now on.
By the way, in the process of doing this, I found a screw missing from my skid plates--no doubt the fault of the dealership. That's enough for me to resolve to do all the oil changes from now on.
digging that scew in funnel, didn't know there was such a thing!
I also have the funnel, works awesome. I've found I can balance a gallon jug of Amsoil on it and go about my usual routine if rotating the tires and other duties while it fully drains every drop.
Glad to help, it took me quite a while to get my act together and get a system in place that I remember each time, as well as execute the same way each time. Having two 5.7L's in the driveway at once helped...
Yes, it is a mess to the newbs to change the oil in these but once you get it figured out, it's actually cleaner than changing a vehicle with the screw-on can filter. People forget how much oil is spilled with those things that are vertical.
- Thread starter
- #12
Similar here - I use 3/8 clear tubing. I have a longer length with the screw in fumoto nipple for the filter and a shorty for the sump (that one has the nipple built in). I like that I can see when the flow is slowing or stopping. They live in a gallon ziplock bag ready to roll when I need them.
Love having a mildly lifted rig, I don't need to jack it up or use ramps for oil changes.
