Eastwood SCT for body work? (1 Viewer)

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Posted over in the paint & body section, but not much traffic there lately.

Anybody have any experience with one of these? My old man and I are stripping my 6/77 FJ-40 for a full repaint.

Looking for some tools that will help speed up the process and reduce the elbow grease needed for my pops.

Scope out the original sticker on the amby door glass. "Toyota Land Cruisers" Van Nuys CA 818 785 2200.

I just googled that number, brings up some info associated with some shops in Van Nuys, and looks like mayber the number's used by Icon 4X4, or was at some point? I can tell you with 100% certainty that this truck is not and ICON! Hahaha.

shop time with pop.jpg
 
I know some people who have used one and were happy with it and had some pointers:
It will create enough heat to warp the metal if not careful.
The wheels are expensive and it took about 3 wheels to do a whole 60’s car outside.
Took about 8-10 hours to do said 60’s car.
LOTS of dust.
Overall, they were pleased with it but said they weren’t looking forward to ever doing a whole car again.
 
I know some people who have used one and were happy with it and had some pointers:
It will create enough heat to warp the metal if not careful.
The wheels are expensive and it took about 3 wheels to do a whole 60’s car outside.
Took about 8-10 hours to do said 60’s car.
LOTS of dust.
Overall, they were pleased with it but said they weren’t looking forward to ever doing a whole car again.
Thanks. I have read about heat and warping issues.

The wheels are expensive, but so are many good consumables. 3 wheels for a big car doesn't seem too bad to me.
 
My son and I used the Eastwood SCT on a '56 Chevy recently. As you know, those vehicles also have large flat areas. We did not have any heat/warp issues. However, we made sure to keep it moving. We tried using the drum that came with it, but it was taking too long. We bought the more aggressive 40 grit drum and that worked well. We took it down to bare metal then worked our way back up to 120 grit with a DA sander. Shot it in epoxy primer and were pleased with the results. We plan to use it on our 40 when we get around to restoring it.
 
My son and I used the Eastwood SCT on a '56 Chevy recently. As you know, those vehicles also have large flat areas. We did not have any heat/warp issues. However, we made sure to keep it moving. We tried using the drum that came with it, but it was taking too long. We bought the more aggressive 40 grit drum and that worked well. We took it down to bare metal then worked our way back up to 120 grit with a DA sander. Shot it in epoxy primer and were pleased with the results. We plan to use it on our 40 when we get around to restoring it.
Cool, that's great feedback. I'm wondering if the SCT might be good for the bed, and think it could work well on similar big flat sections. Parts of the hood, sides of the tub, etc.

The hood on my truck is pretty rough, and I'll probably bring it down to bare metal. At some point in its earlier life, it looks like there was a fire in the carb, so the paint on the hood is, ah, "patina-ed," to say the least. And as we come across areas where the paint shows signs of poor adhesion or anything funky, those'll get stripped down, too.

We made pretty good progress in a couple hours yesterday working on the sides. Popped the glass out and used a DA sander, a sanding block, and 220 grit. No rust really, aside from a small area in the rounded corner where the sides meet the tub at the back of the truck. I'm definitely scratching my head and wish I knew the history of the truck. It was originally yellow, then painted blue. Inside of the amby doors was tan. Inside of the sides is white. Lots of drips in that layer of white paint, so sanded it away and found more of an ivory color, which is the last layer before factory primer. Inside of front doors and the dash, under dash, floor pans are all black. Bed of the tub is a mix of blue, black, and showing some yellow through scratches.

We should get some more time in the shop today, aiming to have the sides primed by the end of the weekend. Then we'll move on to the rest of the truck, panel by panel.
I'll post more if I ended up plunking down the coin for the SCT, which I'm leaning towards.
 

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