Easiest way to Remove a Rear Stock Bumper? (1 Viewer)

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NYIronPig

YES I have a problem...
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Got a new simple black powder coated rear bumper for my rig and want to get it installed

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New bumper bolts right on to my frame with extension brackets on the bumper and uses 4 bolts on each side like this pic

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So now trying to figure out how to attack this project best before I crawl under. Looking at this SOR parts image, should I just remove the bolts holding the stock extension brackets #6 & #7?

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Welcome any help/advice here to same me time and sanity!
 
Brackets are riveted to the frame. So grinding, drilling and hammering needed.
Ugh, I was hoping it would be just removing some bolts. So I will need to get the grinder out to get after the rivits to start? Are there 2 on each side that I will need to hit? And then I assume I will need to drill new holes in my frame to fit the new bumper?
 
Does the rear crossmember have to be removed also?

for the rivets, I used the ingersol Rand 118 max. Well worth the $105 I paid on amazon.
 
Does the rear crossmember have to be removed also?

for the rivets, I used the ingersol Rand 118 max. Well worth the $105 I paid on amazon.
I don't think so...how can I be 100% sure? Was it easy to grind them off with the ingersol Rand 118 max? You put your FJ on a lift or were you able to handle from crawling under?
 
You should be able to tell based on how the new bumper mounts. Here is what mine looks like. 3 rivets each side.
The 118max is an air hammer. If you have an air compressor. Otherwise grind and drill.

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I don't think so...how can I be 100% sure? Was it easy to grind them off with the ingersol Rand 118 max? You put your FJ on a lift or were you able to handle from crawling under?
No rear cross member removal necessary.
I picked this one up as well.

You do have to remove the bumper hangers. I used a small cutoff wheel (on the rivets on the hanger side). Then a step up bit to drill them out. Didn't take long.
I did drill extra holes to keep my hitch. But its pretty straightforward.

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You should be able to tell based on how the new bumper mounts. Here is what mine looks like. 3 rivets each side.
The 118max is an air hammer. If you have an air compressor. Otherwise grind and drill.

View attachment 2251845
Yes, that is exactly what I need to remove and get the four holes exposed to use for the new bolts.

Ah an air hammer, so it just pounds the rivits right through the holes (never used an air hammer before) and the bracket comes off?

Guess I need to remove the actual bumper first to get these brackets exposed to pound on, right?

Can I get this done from under my rig, or do I need to get her on a lift?
 
No rear cross member removal necessary.
I picked this one up as well.

You do have to remove the bumper hangers. I used a small cutoff wheel (on the rivets on the hanger side). Then a step up bit to drill them out. Didn't take long.
I did drill extra holes to keep my hitch. But its pretty straightforward.

View attachment 2251852
Great, the same bumper! I also plan to keep my hitch with this bumper. Thx! Grind the rivits on the hanger side and then drill them out and use the holes for the new bumper bolts.

Were you able to remove and install without putting your FJ on a lift?
 
Yes, that is exactly what I need to remove and get the four holes exposed to use for the new bolts.

Ah an air hammer, so it just pounds the rivits right through the holes (never used an air hammer before) and the bracket comes off?

Guess I need to remove the actual bumper first to get these brackets exposed to pound on, right?

Can I get this done from under my rig, or do I need to get her on a lift?
Two steps. First use a chisel on the air hammer to cut the rivet head off then put punch on air hammer to pound out.

here is video of me taking those exact hangers off.
 
Great, the same bumper! I also plan to keep my hitch with this bumper. Thx! Grind the rivits on the hanger side and then drill them out and use the holes for the new bumper bolts.

Were you able to remove and install without putting your FJ on a lift?
No lift required. When you mount it an extra set of hands or a jack is useful as there is a little play in its positioning until you tighten your bolts down....and its heavy.
 
Be careful to not round out the square holes in the stock bumper. If the Bolts and nuts are rusted together and you start torquing on the nut usually what happens is the square part just inside the rounded head of the bolt will round the hole in the bumper and you'll end up having to cut the bolt to remove it. Try holding the bolt end with vice grips to make sure they don't start turning or better yet just cut the chrome bumper bolts and drive the heads out with a drift.
 
Be careful to not round out the square holes in the stock bumper. If the Bolts and nuts are rusted together and you start torquing on the nut usually what happens is the square part just inside the rounded head of the bolt will round the hole in the bumper and you'll end up having to cut the bolt to remove it. Try holding the bolt end with vice grips to make sure they don't start turning or better yet just cut the chrome bumper bolts and drive the heads out with a drift.
SO leave the chrome bumper attached and just cut the bumper rivits and drive the heads out like the video above? I don't have an air compressor, so that + the Air gun will run me $200+. I have a angle grinder, so thought I could attack the rivits with my grinder, a drill and hammer if I need. Just want to make sure I can get to them if I leave the actual chrome bumper on.
 
Those chrome carriage bolts either stripped out or broke off using 1/2" drive breaker bar. I used an angle grinder and ruined the bumper. The rivets were pretty easy using a drill, a chisel and 3# hammer too. I had to remove the rear cross member, but as you can see, it was rusted badly.
 
Those chrome carriage bolts either stripped out or broke off using 1/2" drive breaker bar. I used an angle grinder and ruined the bumper. The rivets were pretty easy using a drill, a chisel and 3# hammer too. I had to remove the rear cross member, but as you can see, it was rusted badly.
Thx

Would an angle grinder with a cutting wheel get those rivits out? Or easier to just get the hammer and chisel to snap the rivit heads off and then drill out?
 
What's your time worth? I guess now everyone is unemployed so not much. But considering the extra time to use a grinder etc. is it worth $200 for an air setup.
 
What's your time worth? I guess now everyone is unemployed so not much. But considering the extra time to use a grinder etc. is it worth $200 for an air setup.
I got nothing but time right now the the world being so crazy and have a grinder, so not worth buying an air hammer I won't use again. I have watched the entire Tiger King series on Netflix, so ready to get wrenching on this project. Pouring rain today had not allowed me to get started
 

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