Crossmember? Sorry, it's an FJ55.
e-Brake drum rubbing on Crossmember (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter rstoddard
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #22
Sorry, thought that was a crossmember above the cable. I thought the rear axle looked a little odd. Thanks for your help.
Good idea. I know the plate style adapter pretty much made the AA adapter obsolete long ago. That's why I think the Old Guys around here might remember something.
- Thread starter
- #24
I called. They told me that I should use a crossmember kit they sell that connects to the back of the TC and welds onto the frame rails IN LIEU OF the stock crossmember pipe. Thing is, I have that part, but I never installed it. It was supposed to help support the TC, but I was told (when I got it) it wasn’t essential. I originally ran that adapter for 20 years without a clearance issue, so this all seems rather strange. It seems like a rather drastic action to cut the stock crossmember and replace it with a AA bar, although it would help support the TC for sure.
They also mentioned a possible issue with the motor mounts, so I guess the only other option is to look into the mounts. I don’t think the mounts are bad, but they are old. I wouldn’t mine replacing them, but I haven’t found and guidance or procedure for doing that.
DOES ANYONE HAVE A PROCEDURE FOR MOTOR MOUNT REPLACEMENT?
I know they say replace one at a time, but it seems I need to try to get things aligned properly. I was thinking that an engine hoist on top would help take the weight off the engine block and front mounts and a Jack underneath the tranny would help with the rear mounts once the front mounts are replaced. I’m just not sure how high you have to lift the motor and what you have to disconnect and/or watch for while changing out the mounts.
ANY ADVICE ON THIS PROCESS IS GREATLY APPRECIATED!!!!!
Downey
SILVER Star
Ok, right off the bat I can think of 2-3 pieces of advice I can give you, but first I need to know if you have the stock 6 cylinder engine, or a Chevy V8. I hate to keep beating a dead horse, but there was a very good reason the transfer-case rear motor mount crossmembers were designed- - -if you have one, please use it. Know that stock 6 cylinder engines/transmission sit 1" to the drivers side, so you could check the center line of your transfer-case input shaft (center of rear 6 bolt cover) relative to distance out to left and right frame rails. I'm thinking if I were using the SM420 with 5" adapter I'd have set that engine a bit forward (if it were a Chevota swap).
- Thread starter
- #26
First, I have a stock 2F 6-Cyl Engine.
Do you mean by “there was a very good reason the transfer-case rear motor mount crossmembers were designed- - -if you have one, please use it” that I should remove the stock tubular crossmember and install the Advanced Adapter crossmember that attaches to the TC?
If that’s the advice, that’s probably the easiest solution, and gives the greatest support to the TC. However, It probably doesn’t resolve any alignment issue that maybe (and is likely) involved with the motor mounts because I can’t otherwise understand how there was adequate clearance before changed the position of the mounts (when I dropped the engine to pull the TC), and there isn’t now and the TC is pushed against the right side of the crossmember. My point is, unless that gets corrected, even the AA crossmember won’t line up with the bolt holes on the TC.
Perhaps that is the best way to find for sure if I am out of alignment: use the AA crossmember to measure the distance to the mounting cover holes on the TC. I’m sure AA determined the precise location of where the rear of the TC should align vis-a-vis the frame rails.
Downey
SILVER Star
ok, with the 6 cylinder you can’t just move the engine forward. The tubular crossmember your parking brake is hitting is used to return the frame to its original position after it flexes wildly in off road terrain (its a torque tube), so I don’t guess you want to simply cut it out, unless you cut it out and re-install it rearward???
- Thread starter
- #28
Mr. Downey,
I greatly appreciate the suggestion, although it seems to be a a bit of a drastic solution. I really think I need to first investigate a solution involving shifting (centering) the TC to left. It is currently up against the right side of the crossmember. If it was over even one inch to the left there would probably be enough clearance. I really think it’s more of a lateral drive train alignment problem that involves the motor mounts than it is a front to rear clearance problem.
I’ll let you know what I find when I take some measurements.
pardion
SILVER Star
Ok I’m an old guy.
My solution to fix this issue is to remove the AA SM420 adapter and get a 3/4” plate adapter.
Use your stock motor and bell housing mounts.
DO NOT REMOVE THE TORQUE TUBE.
The rear aftermarket transfer case mount is not necessary as the bell housing will support the SM420 and T/C.
That rear wing support tends to work against the front mounts and loosens the T/C from the adapter.
Then you can lengthen your rear driveline and shorten your front driveline and be good to go.
My solution to fix this issue is to remove the AA SM420 adapter and get a 3/4” plate adapter.
Use your stock motor and bell housing mounts.
DO NOT REMOVE THE TORQUE TUBE.
The rear aftermarket transfer case mount is not necessary as the bell housing will support the SM420 and T/C.
That rear wing support tends to work against the front mounts and loosens the T/C from the adapter.
Then you can lengthen your rear driveline and shorten your front driveline and be good to go.
pardion
SILVER Star
The TORQUE TUBE can be moved rearward correctly. @orangefj45
- Thread starter
- #31
Help me understand: Who makes a 3/4 plate adapter that allows you to connect a 10 spline Transmission output shaft to a 4-spd TC 16 spline input shaft I don’t understand how that works?
Living in the Past
SILVER Star
Back in either the late nineties or early 2000s Danny Warren had an article in Toyota Trails about replacing a thicker adapter (1 1/2"?) For the new at the time thinner one. I contacted Danny about bought the old adapter. As I remember with the length of the adapter it equalled the length of the H42. It also had a tailshaft the was full length allowing a PTO gear to be installed. After a fee years sold the adapter and couple of SM420s that were in pieces. Originally thought this was in a 73+ FJ40. With a 5"+ adapter no way would it be close to installing in FJ40 with a F style engine. Interesting that style of torque tube didn't start didn't start in the FJ40 until the 73 model while my 65 FJ45LP-B has one but it's further back. Assume that the same in FJ55 from the beginning. Which explains why it even fits at all.
I agree 100% with John @pardion just replaced the old AA with a shorter one and solve the problem once and for all.
I agree 100% with John @pardion just replaced the old AA with a shorter one and solve the problem once and for all.
Not sure who is selling the adapter at the moment. Maybe someone else can chime in.
Tech Links from before Mud:
One link from the Tech Links
Tech Links from before Mud:
One link from the Tech Links
To add some details to the above post#32, the 1.5" adapter was the old AA piece (Alum with heli coils) that replaced the sm420 mainshaft and retained the rear most bearing in tcase. The "new, thin " adapter is designed to be used when the trans does not have the long main shaft, you retain the tcase input gear on the trans output shaft with bolt & washer. This allowed using other transmissions and not having to replace the mainshaft. It does eliminate the possiblity of a pto.
To rstoddard: Not saying its the case here but there were some input gears that had the 4sp gear and the 10 spline input, have not seen or heard of one in years but I know they exist.
To rstoddard: Not saying its the case here but there were some input gears that had the 4sp gear and the 10 spline input, have not seen or heard of one in years but I know they exist.
- Thread starter
- #35
- Thread starter
- #36
If someone makes an shorter adapter for an SM420 to a 16- spline 4 spd TC , I would appreciate the link. I looked for something and didn’t see anything
pardion
SILVER Star
Some how I missed the fact that the OP had a 4-speed T/C.
A 3-speed T/C or an Orion would give you lower gearing.
But a bit heavy for a bell housing mount.
A center mounted rear cushion mount would be best.
A 3-speed T/C or an Orion would give you lower gearing.
But a bit heavy for a bell housing mount.
A center mounted rear cushion mount would be best.
- Thread starter
- #38
I made measurements based on the AA crossmember. The distance frame-to-frame is 28”. It’s 13” from the driver side and 15” from the passenger side. I came up about 3/16” short on the driver side meaning the TC is a little to the left.
Since I removed the front axel (which I over greased, which is where this thread started- see above) I gained some clearance (see photo below). I think if I can gain a little more from replacing the motor mounts and trying to slide the drive train an 1/8-1/4 to the left (driver side) it should provide adequate clearance. After all, I ran it for 20 years with this same set up and no issues.
The only question is: how much does that TC move when you are bouncing around on hard rocks/ground? That would be the only way that drum could move far enough to hit (and grind) on the crossmember. The crossmember doesn’t have any sign of grinding from past use, so I have to assume the TC doesn’t move very much.
pardion
SILVER Star
Extreme Bends has the SM420 adapters.
I think your plan to loosen the mounts and shift back where it was for 20 years.
I think your plan to loosen the mounts and shift back where it was for 20 years.
