Dylan's Vortec L59 conversion Q & A.... (1 Viewer)

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djawahir

SILVER Star
Joined
Aug 15, 2005
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Location
San Diego, CA
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battlebalm.com
Ok guys, I plunked down the cash for a new engine and I need some help from you guys. I'm doing a V8 conversion using a 2007 GM Vortec 5.3L Flex Fuel engine (the L59 model engine from a 2007 Silverado 4x4). I'll also be doing some body work, interior redesign, etc...

I got the engine delivered to me earlier this week. I have to say that I'm excited and nervous all at the same time.

I hope to use this thread to ask a bunch of questions from you pros...since I have never done anything this huge on my cruiser before.

(I'll have another thread with a detailed buildup like those who have done this before me.)


First question.

I want to get the engine off of the crate it was shipped to me on and put it on my engine stand.

Does this look like the correct way to mount the engine to the engine stand bracket?

:idea:
IMG_0655a.JPG
 
wow thats a nice looking engine!! As far as mounting it on the stand... The pic looks good. Might want the pivot point centered where the crank is, but if you do that its just about impossible to get on the flex plate bolts. If your keeping it on its no big deal.

Make shure you use very good bolts, dont want them breaking and dropping your engine

As you can see I had to use spacers here. This is a metric engine, as I think the L59 is?? Hard to get fully threaded metric bolts at my hardware store, so some flat washers might be needed to get things spaced correctly.

4g63001.jpg


Here is a pic of the first engine block I mounted to a stand. I fould out the hard way that I could not install the rear main seal like this, the mounting plate is in the way. So if there is anything you have to do to the back of the engine do it now. It looks pretty fresh, so you should be good to go.

take lots of pics and have fun with it.

:cheers:
 
No! try to align the pivot point with the center line of the crank (middle of the flex plate).


Dynosoar
 
Djawahir, I'm fairly new to the forum so I don't know what vehicle/model you own. I'm jealous as hell on the engine purchase though, I think somebody's got too much money!!! Hope you got the electronic throttle pedal with the engine, and hope you don't have floorboard mounting/clearence problems with the pedal that others have had (per post I've read, never done an electronic pedal conversion myself, don't have your money). Since I'm one half of the Chevota V8 Kit manufactures on earth (Downey and Advance) I'll keep an eye on your progress with this puppy. Good luck with it.
 
Be careful when attaching it to the engine stand.....those things are top heavy and hell to move with just one person. You might need to invest in about a 5 foot section of pipe to use as a pry bar.

if it were me, I would loose the top two brackets that are bolted to the rear of hte engine and attach them to the two bolt holes the next one up from where you are now, then try and center the main bracket and tighen everything down.
Make sure and only use grade 8 bolts washers.

Get a friend to come over and help, if you've not done this before , because the engines can be a little dangerous, they don't give any warning when they fall or flip around.
 
Thanks guys for the input. (The legendary Jim maybe?) Downey, I've got a 1987 FJ60 and a 2F with about 209K on the clock. I got the engine from a pullout with all the accessories included. But, I didn't get an electronic throttle pedal with the engine...Doh! I guess I'll have to start looking for one of those.

So I mounted the center of the engine stand bracket above the center of the crank to try and balance the engine. (I've heard from many that this engine is top heavy, just like Elbert stated above.) Elbert, ideally I would have liked to mount the top two brackets into the spots above the current ones, but there is only a bolt hole on the left side. The right side bolt hole is undrilled...it's probably too hard for you to see in the picture. And these are all grade 8.8 M10x1.5 bolts so I hope they are very very strong.

So for now, I guess I'll go with where the engine stand bracket is. That is my best guess for where the actual center of gravity is. I just wanted to make sure that I was not doing anything incredibly wrong or dangerous.

By the way, I have a 2 ton cherry picker with a load leveler to lift this engine and set it into the engine stand.

But this brings me to my next question. And I'm very nervous about this...


Where are the best lift points for me to lift this engine with my cherry picker?
 
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Contact your engine source for the throttle pedal - should still be in the vehicle.

You didn't say what you'll be using for a trans. If a stick & the donor was same, you probably won't have many problems beyond a speed sensor (Downey makes a xfer case mounted one).

Should be lots of room to install the epedal if you're keeping your clutch since the pedals are so far off the firewall.
 
i used the bolts on the front right head and the ones in the left rear head to hang it. look at my thread, I think there are some pics there that kinda show it hanging. right now I am using bolts in the back of the two heads and it seems to be balanced out pretty well with the trans and tranfer attached. with a motorcycle strap attached to the front of the motor on the alt bracket i can pretty much tilt it at any angle. Also, might as well take off that flex plate before bolting it up to the engine stand... they are hard to get to afterwards. and also, i center my stands on the crank. they are top heavy that way, but you just have to be carefull, like the posting above, if you have it in the stand and without the lock pin, be VERY CAREFULL not to let it flip around. need a helpet to flip really any morot that has even heads on it upside down...

also, may want to look into getting a cable actuated throttle body for the motor, since it *may* be easier to set up. that being said, i have see the conversions done on cruisers and other cars with the electic pedal.

also, may want to think about leaving that motor on the pallet untill you pull the old one to leave the stand free for your old setup. i mean, there's really nothing you need to do to the new motor anyways... unless you are taking it apart.

also, may want to call up FIS in texas. I am not 100% sure they can tune ECM's for flex fuel. may want to check though, could be way off here. but i seem to remember reading that somewhere.

also.. good recource for lm7 stuff is www.v8rx7forum.com swaps with these motors are common everywhere but with cruisers in the states. people get them and put them in anything. (s10's, 240sx's, rx7's, ect.)

nice motor...
 
you doing the wiring or sending it out? there are a few other sources other than FIS that do harnesses.. www.wait4meperformance.com does them cheap cheap... I think like 300 for the harness and 100 or so for any tune you want.
 
With the CA SMOG laws the way they are I think you will have to use the trans that was attached to the engine. Unless you can find a 2007 model that came with that engine and a 4speed (or 5 speed if you plan a H55). Do your reasearch first it will save you a lot of time and $$$$$.

Dynosoar
 
With the CA SMOG laws the way they are I think you will have to use the trans that was attached to the engine. Unless you can find a 2007 model that came with that engine and a 4speed (or 5 speed if you plan a H55). Do your reasearch first it will save you a lot of time and $$$$$.

Dynosoar

I was wondering when somebody was going to bring this up!!!!! Not only does the ECU shift the tranny, but the tranny also sends signals back to the ECU that are used to operate the engine/emissions equipment. Using a standard tranny normally requires ECU reprogramming/replacement, and possibly a complete harness replacement (I've heard both ways). Inside California you don't have a choice, you have to retain the GM auto tranny if it came with one (Calif considers the tranny part of the smog device).
 
I'll be mating the engine up to the H55F. I love the manual and I don't want to change it out for an auto. I know I'm going to have some trouble with the people's republic of CA smog enforcement troops, but I'm going to give it a shot. I'm going to document everything I'm installing, making sure all of it is CARB legal and see what they have to say. If that doesn't work, plan B is to register the vehicle in FL with my folks. I'll be moving back there in the near future anyways.

As far as I know, there are no emissions components inside the transmission. And I don't know how the transmission affects emissions in an automatic. So, I'm not sure why CA laws say the engine has to stay with the original tranny. I've got to look into that.

So, to answer the questions from you guys:

I'm not sure whether or not I'll do the wiring myself yet. It may be easier for me to just send it out.

The original engine was mated to an auto tranny. The 4L60E. So, I guess I'll need ECU reprogramming or replacement.

I want to mount the engine on the stand so I can move it out of the way and put my FJ60 in the garage and begin tear down. And right now, my garage is full of too much crap.


Has anyone run LS1 exhaust manifolds from (99-02 corvette) on their SBC conversion? I've heard that these manifolds breathe pretty well and they look to hug the block pretty closely. I'm not sure if the current manifolds are going to squeeze onto the truck without clearance problems.
 
I'll be mating the engine up to the H55F. I love the manual and I don't want to change it out for an auto. I know I'm going to have some trouble with the people's republic of CA smog enforcement troops, but I'm going to give it a shot. I'm going to document everything I'm installing, making sure all of it is CARB legal and see what they have to say. If that doesn't work, plan B is to register the vehicle in FL with my folks. I'll be moving back there in the near future anyways.

As far as I know, there are no emissions components inside the transmission. And I don't know how the transmission affects emissions in an automatic. So, I'm not sure why CA laws say the engine has to stay with the original tranny. I've got to look into that.

So, to answer the questions from you guys:

I'm not sure whether or not I'll do the wiring myself yet. It may be easier for me to just send it out.

The original engine was mated to an auto tranny. The 4L60E. So, I guess I'll need ECU reprogramming or replacement.

I want to mount the engine on the stand so I can move it out of the way and put my FJ60 in the garage and begin tear down. And right now, my garage is full of too much crap.


Has anyone run LS1 exhaust manifolds from (99-02 corvette) on their SBC conversion? I've heard that these manifolds breathe pretty well and they look to hug the block pretty closely. I'm not sure if the current manifolds are going to squeeze onto the truck without clearance problems.

Nice engine eh....
Wow, I was wondering if you had a bail out plan or lots of $$$ maybe both !!!! :D

If you have the option of register your LC in other state then great....
I share your feelings and also wonder why CA does think of the tranny being part of the smog system...

Im looking at using the LS1 manifolds from a Corvette.
I'll see if I can get any info from my local Chevy dealership...I'll let yah know what they say...
 
Boy, if I had lots of money, I probably wouldn't be working this weekend...but I gots to pay for this engine conversion somehow, right?

I thought there would be more posts about the different exhaust manifolds and headers used in the Vortec swap. Maybe everone gets the standard straight down block huggers? (Or more realistically, they don't have to worry about being CA smog legal.)

I did find some good information about the stock Corvette headers from the LS1. Supposedly, they are almost up to par with some of the aftermarket headers out there when it comes to HP and Torque #'s!

Let me know on those LS1 manifolds. How much are they? I think you should be able to pick up a used set for $100 or so...
 
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What's up! Nice conversion thread you got here. Hey first off good luck and second...Call FIS in San Antonio and speak to either Jeff. They do a super job and it saves you the pain. They can also program the ECU. Also the 5.3 and the LS platform are the same and you can use almost any set of headers or exhaust manifolds. Good luck again and nice engine.
 
Conversion

I have just picked up a 87 fj60 my prior one was awwsome, but i sold it on a dumb whim.. lol.. I'm also in Calif, it passed smog to transfer the title, it was tough as it failed 4x before it passed, it's funny as compressions good etc etc etc.. at any rate,

my brother in-law has a 84 fj60 and did the chevy v8 conversion and had no problem getting it through the referee, he used the 4 speed which he regrets, but he was excited to find out about the h55 when i told him about it. So the motor staying with the trans is not exactly correct or the question is will the ref will go under the vehicle and verify its origin. My inlaw did stay with manual trans.... I think it would have benefited you to go see the referee before starting but i also noted you will be going back to FL, so you have an exit plan.

I been looking already at my local paper, craigslist etc for a 90's chevy 1500 4x4 v8's with manual trans, seem to be in the 2-3K range with 110k miles or so. I think in my case it would be smart to get the "entire" package and be able to smog it in my name and drive it home and swap it. I have just began the research on this board as far as the accessories and mounting hardware and will plan to use the toyota 5 speed. Probably next year i'm thinking..

The only conversion i've done is a 1976 ford courier, i put in a 289 mustang motor and had to fab all the mounts, but bought a through the fender header set. I liked the distr in the rear and since it was a ford i did the 289, but my heart has always been with the sbc, as i had many and rebuilt several --- really miss my 69 camaro ss-rs .. boo damn wife.. sold it to buy the ring...hehe

Good luck and i will love to see your journey through this, it's great this board exists and digital cameras are cheap ;)
 
Ferd69, I've looked at the Camaro stock manifolds and they're said to have 9lb-ft of tq and 12HP less than the Corvette ones. Here's the link with the LS1 manifold info:

http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/ls1_engine_header_test/index.html

Hey Iaintscared, your thread on the conversion is one of the ones that I've been reading over and over again. I hope to make my thread as informative as yours.

Things I've done:

I've finally gotten the engine off of the pallet and put onto the engine stand. Scary for this first timer. Good thing I had my girl there to assure me how dangerous lifting a 500 lb engine was over and over and over.

Things I need to do:
Get throttle pedal (or electronic gas pedal?) for this engine
Get LS1 manifolds
Look into FIS for harness


Questions to you guys:
Can I wrench on the engine while it's on the engine stand? Any precautions?
Do you guys know of any mods I can do to the engine to get it more fuel friendly and still retain or gain power? I am going to use this truck as my expedition vehicle and towing vehicle for a camping trailer.
 
stand setup

<< Can I wrench on the engine while it's on the engine stand? Any precautions?>>

Typically one uses a stand like that to rebuild a motor and you set the 4 arms equally centered on the cg of the motor as you flip it upside down and install crank and flip it over to insert piston and flip over the to connect the rod to the crank etc etc.. when the short block is done and heads are on your talkin some weight (maybe 600 lbs) on the stand at this point and you should be done with the flipping it over any more... Now with all the weight you've added (complete motor) and if your weight is not centered on the cg of the motor as shown in your pictures... it will be easy to flip it upside down but a bear-cat to get it turn it back over in the stand. The stand your using does not look very heavy duty so i'd be very careful messing with it. I bet if you pushed on the front of the engine it would dip down a bit and flex the stand. BE CAREFUL.

Usually when i see a motor at this point it's one step more to be in the car so i'd not play with it on the stand.
 

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