Durable Glowplugs for 2H with aftermarket turbo.

Joined
Jul 19, 2021
Messages
7
Location
Aus
Visit site
HI all, newbie here.

HJ60 with a 2H with aftermarket turbo running 10.5 psi max. 12V system. I have a good busbar setup with custom copper rail and internal indication of power on the rail. It all works fine, but I seem to only get maybe 5 years out of glowplugs, and this is with use that is not every day, more like 5 times a month with a few starts thoughout that day.

Wondering members' thoughts on best glowplugs to buy that are perhaps more durable than others?

Also, I have always been curious that the supposed spec for glowplugs for my model are 6V. My system dips to a minimum of 10V when cranking with them and the other heaters fully on. Going on my dashboard indicator, the plugs appear to be getting full power all the time when on. ie not in series etc with other heaters. I've never been able to find a wiring diagram that fully matched what I have, so as well as asking about plugs that might suit a turbo'd 2H better, am also wondering if people could put up some diagrams of what they have for their old girl of this era. It is distinctly possible that "fiddling" was done with my girl before I acquired her, so I may have something incorrectly set up that I consider as standard. Perhaps the correct plug for me is truly a 12v one.....it has always seemed strange to me that the spec is 6V. A bit like coils with or without ballast resistors type of thing!

I've also pondered doing away with the temp related controls completely, and replacing them with fully manual operation. In some ways much better if one is in tune with ambient and what the engine needs. Pushbuttons working relays instead, run by the brain that only sometimes fails and generally self-repairs with a smack to the head accompanied by doh sounds!

Lastly, why the dashboard indicator hooked to the rail? When working in outback Aus I would often seen glowplugs destroyed through the controls keeping power on due to a failure somewhere, induced by road corrugation vibration. With the indicator this at least tells you something is astray and you can stop and check immediately. Corrugations and harsh conditions are the same reason I have an electric on demand vacuum pump....I would frequently see alternator disasters from leaking pumps, that sometimes lead to bigger issues....like no oil!

cheers, Honka
 
Joined
Jul 19, 2021
Messages
7
Location
Aus
Visit site
I can't edit as yet so some further info. Local ambients for me at worst are only a little below 0° C occasionally during winter. Today on startup it was about 1 and I noticed a very short run (about 3 seconds) of brighter illumination on my dash rail indicator and then it dropped back slightly, so I am guessing that my statement that "the plugs appear to be getting full power all the time when on" is perhaps incorrect. Maybe because this happens quite quickly, or only when cold enough, I haven't noticed it before, and the drop I noticed today on the indicator was not much...but definitely there. I remember measuring volts on the rail years ago, but didn't record anything. Might do it again tomorrow.
 
Joined
Jul 22, 2003
Messages
18,737
Location
Perth Western Australia
Visit site
I haven't heard about much difference in durability. They last for years if the voltage is correct. I had HKS plugs for 6 years and they were still going strong when I sold it.
There is 2 part numbers for 12v-6v plugs and another for 12v-11v, depending on the year for Australian HJ60.
 
Joined
Jul 19, 2021
Messages
7
Location
Aus
Visit site
Thanks Rosco, other things have cropped up and I haven't set up a voltage check on cold start yet.

But I am intrigued with the 12v-11v plugs, which maybe are meant for the 24V systems? It is definitely one of those odd things that is confusing........let's see people put a globe for an old 6V beetle into their cruiser light and wonder why it blows!

Cheers, Honka
 
Joined
Dec 5, 2006
Messages
980
Location
Vancouver BC
Visit site
Hi Honka, It sounds like you have a 12v Superglow system and it actually appears from your description that it might be working properly. It uses resistors and relays to send timed, stepped voltages to the 6V glow plugs during the glow cycle. However, If your busbar shows 12 volts through the entire glow cycle, it might only be half working, and that might explain why the plugs have a shorter life- they mights be getting twice their recommended voltage for twice the duration.
Spend some time researching the super glow system. There are a lot of good threads on this forum.
 
Joined
Dec 5, 2006
Messages
980
Location
Vancouver BC
Visit site
To further clarify, because it IS super confusing, The 12 volt plugs that are rated at 6V are for the "Super glow" system. The 12 volt plugs that are rated at 11V are for "direct" glow systems.

My 24 volt truck with super glow uses 14V glow plugs, and if i ripped out all the associated Super glow parts and wired up a straight wire to a switch on the dash, I'd need to use the 23 volt plugs...
 
Joined
Jul 19, 2021
Messages
7
Location
Aus
Visit site
Some further info as I slowly progress along trying to fix this. But it's not urgent and I can't currently spend too much time on it.

I still haven't logged volts anywhere, as I'm going to set up multiple readings into my logging systems I use for my work. That said, I've also noticed some more things, now that I'm paying more attention to the process.

We're still in cold conditions for my location, and the standard dash Glow indicator shows for about 2 seconds, and then a few seconds later my rail indicator drops slightly. Even with new plugs I know that this is still not enough to crank and go. I've always needed at least 15 seconds or more from key on for a surefire start when temp is around 0°C.

Once I've investigated a lot more I'll get back here with the results. Given I did lots on this issue ages ago, I'm a bit annoyed with myself. I normally keep detailed drawings of any elec changes I do, but in this case I can't find anything. Doh. I haven't yet dug out all my manuals as they're tucked away in body cavities. (I keep lots of my spares in these unused holes! eg all hosing is in the drop down tailgate) I'm vaguely remembering that the resistor involved is actually a heater coil in the manifold, thus preheating intake air as well. Side note....During my many years working in Alice Springs, I well remember going to a later Cruiser stuck in far far away truly outback Aus to fix, as it wouldn't start at all. The hot water on the manifold trick was all it took, as the elecs had totally pooped themselves. In that motor it seemed that the manifold heater was far more important.....all a bit fuzzy now.....long ago!

Cheers,
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Top Bottom