Dumb Question - Pilot Bearing (1 Viewer)

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I have tried numerous different style pullers and I have one that seems to grip but it is not moving this piece.

Any suggestions?

Copenhagen1

1. Get manly with it and pound that slide hammer.

2. Cut the race with a carbide burr.

3. Weld a bead on the inside of the race and let it cool. Then it will fall out.

Skoal!
 
1. Get manly with it and pound that slide hammer.

Pin_Head.... thanks for responding quickly. The reason I haven't gotten "manly" with it is because I have been concerned about the "shock" I am putting in all the other bearings attached to that crankshaft. I value your opinion and if you say it won't hurt then I will hammer the #$%^ out of it.

If I open up the puller as wide as it will go BEYOND the race, is there anything behind that race that the puller could be catching on besides the race itself. My puller has held very well but since the race has not come out it concerns me that I am actually trying to hammer the crankshaft out of the block.

Copenhagen1
 
pilot bearing

here is a link to some pics of a clutch change that might help you to go through

https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/245021-pics-oem-p-ns-rear-main-clutch-change.html

pic 1 here is the bearing from Toyota for my 2f/4spd

pic 2 here is the shaft that goes into the bearing--I am just pre-fitting it here

pic 3 here is where the bearing is installed before you put the transmission in---the shaft sticks out the front of the tranny and goes into the bearing as you push the tranny forward to mate up to the bell housing


I used a loaner bearing puller free of charge from autozone---it was the slide hammer type and both jaws were too big to go in so I just used one jaw and angled it to the side a little and gave it a whack---it came right out


A couple of important things---First , the clutch only goes in one way--make sure you know---it is easy to tell so post up if you are not sure and we can find a pic to help

second, You must prefit the bearing on the shaft---it is close tolerance and any nick or manufacturing spec a little off and you will not get yur tranny to slide in. Slide the bearing on the shaft and it should slide on easily. If not clean up the shaft with emery cloth until it does---bout 10 minutes work for me

Finally, make sure the throw out bearing (attaches to the clutch fork) is installed the right way round when you do it, it only goes one way, some are obvious some not

hope that helps
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A pic of your puller teeth would probably help there...

Here is a picture of the puller I am using.....
27059.jpg


as you screw it in, it causes the jaws to spread and does a decent job of grabbing what is left of the bearing. You attach the slide hammer after it is in tight.

Amazon.com: Blind Hole Pilot Bearing Gear Puller Slide Hammer New: Automotive

here is a blind hole pilot bearing puller---but like mentioned there are a lot of ways to do it

bsmith123... I have the new bearing and have already polished the input shaft on the trans for it to fit. I read your thread on the clutch and it was very informative. I appreciate the heads-up on those things that can mess you up. I usually spend about 5 hours reading and about 1 hour actually working. I am sure you understand what I am talking about.

My oil leak turned out to be an oil pan gasket instead of the rear main so I have the oil pan off with a new OEM one piece gasket ready to put back on. But first.... I have the new OEM rear main seal that I might as well put on while I am here but I need to loosen the main bearing caps to install. But first... I have to get the rest of this broken pilot bearing out:bang:. I am just a shade frustrated with it right now. My brother is coming in today to help and he is a better mechanic than I am so I hope to get the remnants of this bearing out today and start putting my truck back together.

Thanks for the help.

Copenhagen1
 
hang in there

well halfway there anyway---good to have help when you need it, Hang in there;)


Looking forward to seeing the progress

This is one of those jobs you are glad to see done!
 
You are right about that. My truck has been down for a month. I had an exhaust leak at the ex/int gasket and my clutch was slipping. I pulled the hood and fender and removed the manifolds. While they were out, I sandblasted the exhaust manifold and glass bead blasted the intake manifold. I put it all back together with new remflex gaskets and it is pretty.

I also stripped the interior and sent the factory seats to the upholstery shop for new skins. I took all the factory brackets and sand blasted them and painted them while they were apart.
I had to remove the heater to get to the transmission hump so I have AATLAS heater kit and will rebuild the heater before it goes back in.

I am making a lot of progress but it is SPRING and time to be driving around and enjoying this rig. :clap:

Copenhagen1
 
The slide hammer tool is made for pulling pilot bearings, so it is normal to have to pound them out. The crank has a thrust bearing, so you would really have to beat on it to have a problem. I'm not saying it is impossible to screw it up, but I would pound on it until the bearing comes out or the tool breaks.
 
I've never tried this, but it might work: try heating up the flywheel around the area with a torch. Not too much, just enough to get the flywheel to expand which should make it easier to remove the race with your puller.
 
Holy cow.... it is out. Took most of the day. Finally used a die grinder and carbide cutter and scored the race every 1/4" or so all the way around it. Kept getting closer and closer to cutting through the race and into the crank but we never did. Stopped every so often and put the puller in and hammered on it but wouldn't budge. Took a drift and started hammering the drift kind of like you would take a bung out of a 55 gallon drum. I think that finally broke it loose. Next time we put the puller in and slide hammered it popped out.

Thanks everybody. Just wanted to give the rest of the story for future reference.

Copenhagen1
 
Karma

Good deal--you passed the commitment test and earned cruiser karma---she owes ya now:lol:
 
I've never tried this, but it might work: try heating up the flywheel around the area with a torch. Not too much, just enough to get the flywheel to expand which should make it easier to remove the race with your puller.

This is a really, really bad idea...

The flywheel is not what the pilot bearing goes in. It sits in the crankshaft.

Heating up the crankshaft enough to make the pilot bearing slide off would most likely destroy the rear main seal and may cause the oil between the last rear main bearing and the crank to fry, which could gum crap up considerably. Also, I seriously doubt you could put enough heat into it.

The weld trick works VERY well tho. Wire feeds are awesome..
 

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