Dual Battery Question (Removing Silencer) (1 Viewer)

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Hey Guys

I am in the process of doing my dual battery setup and had a question regarding the resonator/silencer thing on the side of the air filter. Should it just be removed and capped @ the airfilter or should the hose be re-routed as depicted here:

Green = To Be Removed
Red = New Route Of Hose



I saw a pic of this online and it seems to make sense to me. I just want to make sure that this is the standard thing to do and there will be no ill effects.

So, it will look like this:



Any input?

Thanks
 

e9999

You want to do what...?
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didn't realize a 93 looked so different from my 97... I don't recall having any of this stuff...

(and obviously therefore have no answer for you, sorry...)
 
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Boston, im planning on doing dual batts within the next few weeks and pm'd cdan regarding this exact question. I was a little odd how i've never seen info on this before. I even searched and came up with nothing.

According to dan you must cut off the small silencer/resonator, you might be able to get away with just unbolting it.
Then the tube that connects in the bottom, must be relocated to the top, just as the picture shows.

I think you may have to find a different hose to work though.
Sorry, this may not be the most helpful but im sure others will chime in and offers some good instructions as well.
 
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Boston Mangler said:
Hey Guys

I am in the process of doing my dual battery setup and had a question regarding the resonator/silencer thing on the side of the air filter. Should it just be removed and capped @ the airfilter or should the hose be re-routed as depicted here:

Thanks
Toss the silencer away and route the hose directly as shown in your picture.

See the last picture on my s/c install instructions http://www.george4wd.taskled.com/scharger.html

When you install the s/c in a pre-95 you ditch the resonator and rotate the lid. That's because you relocate the PAIR valve etc. So, if it's good enough for the s/c install (which is smog legal), it's good enough for you :D

In your case you aren't relocating anything, so just ditch the resonator and run a hose directly. Many folk have done that for the aux battery install, and get a bit of 'drumming' under various accel/deaccel conditions, but nothing that a good set of mud terrain tyres can't hide...

george.
 
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Boston Mangler said:
Thanks Guys!

That is what i thought, but This confirms it!

Soon, my rig will look like this:



Thanks
You're repainting it maroon??? NOOO stick with GREEN! :D
 

pismojim

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For the record my direct response to Mangler...

> Are you removing the entire thing circled in green in this photo and then
> rerouting the house that i mocked up with the red arrows
> If so, where did you located that hose and what is effected by doing this?

Yep, I removed the hole thing. It's just an empty plastic box. I
used the existing hose to connect the PAIR valve (?) to the air
cleaner. I used a short piece of bicycle inner tube as a shim for a
tighter fit. The hose was a little bigger than the piece on the air
cleaner.

The PAIR valve is Pulsed Air Injection or something. It's putting air
into the exhaust for emissions. You can hear it when the engine is
cold and you are going under 5 mph with your foot off the gas. It's a
popping sound that will stop when you exceed 5 mph. Try it and listen
for an exhaust like popping sound. It's not a big deal if you know
what's going on but picky 80 Series owners want their "car" to be
quiet. The "box" doesn't affect the emissions function only the sound.

BTW, if you put a snorkel on, it acts like a sound magnifier trumpet
so you can really hear the popping noise. I like it. ;)
 
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Thanks Jim!

Just going to reply to your email! Thanks for the info! I will be finishing this mod up during the week and will post info as i finish it.

For now, here is where i am mounting the battery switch:

 

e9999

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Boston Mangler said:
Thanks Jim!

Just going to reply to your email! Thanks for the info! I will be finishing this mod up during the week and will post info as i finish it.

For now, here is where i am mounting the battery switch:


can't you put it close to a battery? or is that switch just controlling relays?
 
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e9999 said:
can't you put it close to a battery? or is that switch just controlling relays?

I COULD, but it didnt look as clean and uncluttered. I like it here, its out of the way and a little more difficult for a thief to see if its dark out and he is messing with my rig!

Hey Robb, finish that tank install?
 
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Bringing back an old thread as I work on my dual battery setup.
I assume the bracket from the PAIR valve silencer needs to be cut off? I don't see any way to make it fit, but don't see it mentioned anywhere.
PAIR_Bracket.jpg
 

MaddBaggins

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Bringing back an old thread as I work on my dual battery setup.
I assume the bracket from the PAIR valve silencer needs to be cut off? I don't see any way to make it fit, but don't see it mentioned anywhere.


Yup, cut that bracket off.
 

80t0ylc

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Bringing back an old thread as I work on my dual battery setup.
I assume the bracket from the PAIR valve silencer needs to be cut off? I don't see any way to make it fit, but don't see it mentioned anywhere.
Eric, that's what I did and used flex hose to replace OEM parts. 1st pic shows cutoff bracket. 2nd pic shows flex hose routing. I like to put another layer on possible rub points. Pics to show:
HPIM0609.jpg
HPIM0610.jpg
 
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Thanks guys - cut the bracket off and put that NAPA hose on. I cut off about 1/2" at each end of the NAPA hose for a better fit, and it's a little to big in diameter - cinched it down with a clamp - basically just want to keep crap out of there until I put on my York and remove the whole PAIR business.

Unfortunately my junkyard battery tray is broken - I was going to use it anyway and replace it when I found another. But I've decided to mount the Hellroaring controller & fuse to the box (like lots of others), so may as well do it right.
 

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