Dual Battery Install Complete! (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Mar 22, 2010
Threads
41
Messages
357
Location
Portland, OR
Battery = 2x Odyssey 34R-1500
Controller = Blue Sea Systems 7622 (500 amp continuos)
ANL Fuse Box = Blue Sea Systems (one on each battery)
ANL Fuse = Blue Sea Systems 300 AMP (300 continuos and 450 for 500 seconds)
Cables = 1/0 Marine Cable


Figuring out the AMP's which fuses to use was fairly complicated. I have several engineer friends who couldn't even come to a consensus on whether to even fuse the two batteries or not. In the end everyone thought the 300 ANL would provide enough juice to jump start truck if the main went out or to act as a dual battery bank during heavy winching.

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Looks nice and clean. Is this a pure plug-and-play install with the new battery tray, or did you need move existing components around, fabricate brackets, etc.?

[EDIT: SORRY MISSED YOUR EARLIER POSTS WITH ALL THE WORK REQUIRED TO MAKE THIS HAPPEN]
 
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It's pure plug and play minus the heat sink, which I just bolted to the firewall.
 
Clean install. My only suggestion would be to use a group 34 (non reversed terminals) battery on the passenger side so that that positive terminal is inboard and away from the fender. In an accident, that positive terminal could easily make contact with the body. I would also reposition/relocate your winch cut-off switch for the same reasons.
 
It's pure plug and play minus the heat sink, which I just bolted to the firewall.

Wasn't your power steering reservoir in that location and needed to be relocated? Or are the newer URJ200 models different?
 
Thanks for the great advice Hoser, though I think I'm stuck with the reverse layout on the 2nd (house battery). I want it identical to the main battery in case I have to do a swap, and only a 34R will fit in the main battery spot. I will look into getting a cover for the battery terminal though! Hmmm... any ideas for the winch cutoff location? I'm not super happy with it being there either. Where do you think it should go.

AMiR904... the TJM dual battery tray comes with a bracket to relocate the reservoir by a couple inches. TJM's solution is a bit more intuitive than the Piranha LC200 tray, which requires some serious fiddling.

One thing of note... the red wire that leaves the 7622 is NOT a positive wire... it is for the remote control switch. The red wire from the ACR is connected to the green cable, that is then connected to the remote switch. The two red wires, that merge into a single red wire on the switch, is what runs to the positive terminal on your auxiliary (house) battery.

Ps. If you are near Portland, OR or Vancouver, WA... Justin at Streamline Audio (an avid overland friend) is who did the install on this and my TJM 15,000 winch.


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Clean install. Is it easy for you to get to the factory fuses if you need to?
 
That's pretty damn sexy! Nice clean install.

~ Carl
 
To access the fuses I need to undo two screws for the positive and negative cables and it just flips up out of the way. It's not ideal but I took up a lot of room under the hood by putting the ARB Air compressor right next to the big fuse box. Otherwise I would have done a custom mounting bracket next to the fuse box holder instead. Now changing the light bulbs is another matter... with all the winch cables and other stuff, it is going to be a bear getting to the driver side lights.
 
Great looking system. I'm glad to hear TJM developed a fix for moving the power steering reservoir. Relocating that thing was a serious PITA with the Piranha tray.
 
What is that switch you are using? I'm guessing it's to tie the batteries together but who makes it?
 
Hi.
Looking to do a similar set up on my 100 series, had a question on which battery is powering the fuse block. From the images it seems like the starter (#1) battery will be powering the fuse block for your accessories, & the Aux (#2) battery will be isolated when camping to start the truck. Is that correct?
I was thinking of the same set up so that I can use the existing truck plugs & cig. lighters rather than having to run new plugs/cables to the back for accessories. Thanks again.
 
I copied @pdxlc200 's fuse setup. I'm running a single battery, so I looped the battery connections for slack and can still access the fuses without disconnecting any wires.

I may print out a fuse diagram since some of the fuse labels underneath the cover are now unreadable.

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Sorry for the silly noob question, but what precisely is the placement & sequence of the starter & alternator in the schematic provided above? I imagine the stater is between the start battery & the fuse leading to the controller but where does the alternator come in?
 
The starter and alternator are connected to your starting battery. You can change (rewire) so either battery is the starting battery, but the simplest way is to keep the factory location as your starting battery, and have the new location (where the power steering pump was) be your house/auxiliary battery.
 
Cable length not withstanding, if you're stuck with the existing battery but want to keep the positive terminal away from the fender, I suggest just rotating it 180 degrees. That will put your negative terminal outboard. Your positive terminal will be closer to the front frame though.

I assume your BMS is NOT leaving the batteries linked all the time. If you do leave them linked, the proper connection for the charging circuit is positive to your primary battery and the negative coming off your secondary battery. The reason is if the charging system connects solely to the primary battery then the charging system will lower the charging voltage once the primary battery is fully charged but the secondary never gets the full bulk charge. If your charging circuit is a loop then they both get fully charged correctly.
 

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