So my Techstream is telling me that the SRS light on my dash is "DTC B0136/74 OPEN IN P/T SQUIB (LH) CIRCUIT". Ok, that is the driver's side seatbelt pretensioner. Searching around, the fix recommended is either replace the pretenstioner (preferred), or use a 2-3K resistor to fool it.
So I don't have any problem replacing the part, but I wanted to stick a resistor in there and make sure the code cleared. That would confirm to me the pretensioner is bad. OK, resistor in, but code didn't clear. FSM says replace ABS sensor module. Did that, bought good used module, code still there. Hm.. return good used module.
Today, just for giggles, I stuck a jumper wire between the two sides of the plug, expecting it to show a short in the circuit. BUT... all codes cleared, and 'open' error goes away. No more SRS light. Pull jumper, B0136 comes back immediately.
Well, shorted is technically "not open", if you want to be nitpicky... But I expected a code, just a different one. I thought the module needed a certain resistance range to determine the squib was good?
So I know the "floor wire" is good (since jumper or no jumper give different results), sensor module is good, and I've still got a feeling the pretensioner is bad. But I really can't explain the error codes not working as expected. Right now, I have no error light, no code, and the yellow wire to my driver's side pretensioner is unplugged with a jumper wire shorting the two terminals.
Anyone got any ideas?
Thanks!
Mark
Orlando
2000 LC
So I don't have any problem replacing the part, but I wanted to stick a resistor in there and make sure the code cleared. That would confirm to me the pretensioner is bad. OK, resistor in, but code didn't clear. FSM says replace ABS sensor module. Did that, bought good used module, code still there. Hm.. return good used module.
Today, just for giggles, I stuck a jumper wire between the two sides of the plug, expecting it to show a short in the circuit. BUT... all codes cleared, and 'open' error goes away. No more SRS light. Pull jumper, B0136 comes back immediately.
Well, shorted is technically "not open", if you want to be nitpicky... But I expected a code, just a different one. I thought the module needed a certain resistance range to determine the squib was good?
So I know the "floor wire" is good (since jumper or no jumper give different results), sensor module is good, and I've still got a feeling the pretensioner is bad. But I really can't explain the error codes not working as expected. Right now, I have no error light, no code, and the yellow wire to my driver's side pretensioner is unplugged with a jumper wire shorting the two terminals.
Anyone got any ideas?
Thanks!
Mark
Orlando
2000 LC