DTC B0136 weirdness (1 Viewer)

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Aug 15, 2016
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Orlando, FL
So my Techstream is telling me that the SRS light on my dash is "DTC B0136/74 OPEN IN P/T SQUIB (LH) CIRCUIT". Ok, that is the driver's side seatbelt pretensioner. Searching around, the fix recommended is either replace the pretenstioner (preferred), or use a 2-3K resistor to fool it.

So I don't have any problem replacing the part, but I wanted to stick a resistor in there and make sure the code cleared. That would confirm to me the pretensioner is bad. OK, resistor in, but code didn't clear. FSM says replace ABS sensor module. Did that, bought good used module, code still there. Hm.. return good used module.

Today, just for giggles, I stuck a jumper wire between the two sides of the plug, expecting it to show a short in the circuit. BUT... all codes cleared, and 'open' error goes away. No more SRS light. Pull jumper, B0136 comes back immediately.

Well, shorted is technically "not open", if you want to be nitpicky... But I expected a code, just a different one. I thought the module needed a certain resistance range to determine the squib was good?

So I know the "floor wire" is good (since jumper or no jumper give different results), sensor module is good, and I've still got a feeling the pretensioner is bad. But I really can't explain the error codes not working as expected. Right now, I have no error light, no code, and the yellow wire to my driver's side pretensioner is unplugged with a jumper wire shorting the two terminals.

Anyone got any ideas?

Thanks!
Mark
Orlando
2000 LC
 
How did you get the yellow wire to the pretensioner disconnected?

My 2006 has a driver side curtain airbag light on and maybe a coincidence but the drivers seatbelt will barely I mean barely retract. I have pulled the panel to expose the seatbelt retractor and i suppose I may replace it or try to find a specialist that can repair.
 
Nevermind i got it loose.
 
Hi,

I also have the Airbag light come on with the same error. I was going to replace the squib circuit. However I was wondering how you fixed yours. Did you have to replace the whole Seat belt P/T squib harness? or was the fix something else? please advise...

Thanks

So my Techstream is telling me that the SRS light on my dash is "DTC B0136/74 OPEN IN P/T SQUIB (LH) CIRCUIT". Ok, that is the driver's side seatbelt pretensioner. Searching around, the fix recommended is either replace the pretenstioner (preferred), or use a 2-3K resistor to fool it.

So I don't have any problem replacing the part, but I wanted to stick a resistor in there and make sure the code cleared. That would confirm to me the pretensioner is bad. OK, resistor in, but code didn't clear. FSM says replace ABS sensor module. Did that, bought good used module, code still there. Hm.. return good used module.

Today, just for giggles, I stuck a jumper wire between the two sides of the plug, expecting it to show a short in the circuit. BUT... all codes cleared, and 'open' error goes away. No more SRS light. Pull jumper, B0136 comes back immediately.

Well, shorted is technically "not open", if you want to be nitpicky... But I expected a code, just a different one. I thought the module needed a certain resistance range to determine the squib was good?

So I know the "floor wire" is good (since jumper or no jumper give different results), sensor module is good, and I've still got a feeling the pretensioner is bad. But I really can't explain the error codes not working as expected. Right now, I have no error light, no code, and the yellow wire to my driver's side pretensioner is unplugged with a jumper wire shorting the two terminals.

Anyone got any ideas?

Thanks!
Mark
Orlando
2000 LC
 
should be 2-3 ohm, not 2-3k ohm, even then there aren't guarantees that will work. you could read it from a PID I think. idk.
anywhere from 1.6 to 3.3 should work. spray the little yellow connector with cleaner, use a tiny wire, resistors, paper clip, something to scrape the insides of the connector. check and clear codes a few times. if you like the resistor idea use it permanently. If you like new seatbelts buy one of those.
no where could I ever find the LC R value on the front belts.

just opening and re plugging that connector could fix it also.
 
Bumping this, nobody has come back and said the final fix. Was it fixed with replacing the seatbelt?
 
I can give you a $15 discount.. would that work? Thanks
 

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